Farmall B Starting Woes

[Urbish]

Note that the switch is located far forward on the push style and close to the clamp band on the starter for the pull style. Which style of starter do you have, T-Mo? That may make a difference as to whether or not the contact will line up with the stud if the switch orientation is reversed.

[T-Mo]

The starter I have has the switch close to the clamp band as shown in your second image, but it has the shorter rod that would have been used for the foot control starter. I'm guessing you can not get enough "pull" with the short rod to get the switch to make contact with the lug on the starter with the short rod. I may see if the seller has the original starter as I'm guessing it had the switch located forward. I would like to see if that was the case.

[Stanton]

The starter I have has the switch close to the clamp band as shown in your second image, but it has the shorter rod that would have been used for the foot control starter. I'm guessing you can not get enough "pull" with the short rod to get the switch to make contact with the lug on the starter with the short rod. I may see if the seller has the original starter as I'm guessing it had the switch located forward. I would like to see if that was the case.

Agreed. If the PO had a starter similar to Urbish's first pic with the switch close to the bell housing, then replaced it with a starter similar to the second pic and just used the same rod, that would explain a lot.

Let us know what you find out...

[Jim Becker]

I'm wondering if the SA's had the pull rod and the earlier A's and B's had a foot push rod.

Yes. And Urbish's pictures are one of each style.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

This is my first time dealing with a B, and these pictures have me thinking. Bad thing to happen, I know. When we got to Terry's to unload, we were both tired, my back was hurting, and I was thinking about getting home more than what was wrong with the tractor. I did not look real close when I changed that switch at Terry's, but I am thinking that stud may be turned around, and it would just require turning the switch around to the push position for it to work. I hate to admit it, but I was too tired to think much and there is even the possibility the one we took off was in the push position and I put this one on the pull position from habit, but I am pretty sure I saw the seller pull it to start the tractor, but maybe not. Would not be the first time I messed up, especially when I am tired.

[T-Mo]

John,
I do remember pulling the rod when I first tried to start it to back it off the trailer. But, your post got me checking my memory, so I rewatched the video he sent me, and he definitely did pull the rod to start it in the video. I contacted him yesterday about your hat, and when I did I asked about the old starter. He thinks he still has it and is supposed to let me know (both on the starter and your hat).

[T-Mo]

As I looked at the images from the previous page, if one (like me) has a tractor that has the starter with the lug near the back of the starter near the clamp and has the short rod for the foot control switch, the angle of the rod would be elevated a bit. Instead of pulling back on the rod like you would with the longer rod, you're pulling back and up on the rod. Now, that could mean a difference in the amount of pressure being applied to the plunger. Just a thought here.....

The best solution would be to put the correct starter on it and use the short rod, or find the long rod, but then I would have to find where to mount the bracket that the rod runs through near the operator.

Long rod:

https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS1247- ... h-Pull-Rod

[Stanton]

Don't you dare buy a rod!! Make that bad boy!!

[T-Mo]

Here is the best view I have of the starter and starter switch setup I have on this B.

[Urbish]

John, I elongated those holes pretty far, but they're still not making contact. If the plunger goes all the way down, it will make contact, but the only way to do that is to put something between the lever arm and the head of the plunger.

I wonder if you could scare up some stock of the same thickness and make a new lever for the switch that has some extra material where it contacts the button on the switch, or add a weld booger onto your existing lever arm so that it more fully depresses the button. You could try something before you go to the effort. Wrap 3 or 4 pennies or flat washers with electrical tape then tape that wad to the top of the button to see if reducing the gap between the lever and the button is effective.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Terry sent me a picture of the stud and it looks as if the stud is turned around for a push rod, but the screw holes put the switch too far away if the switch is turned around to push.

[T-Mo]

Some pictures of the new starter that's on it, and the old one that was on it. I had the seller to send me an image of the old starter as he still has it. He is also sending me the old starter.

I bought a new starter switch from Pine Valley Machinery yesterday and put that one on. First pull, nothing, but then the second pull it hit. And the pulls after that, maybe 4 or 5, it hit also.

I think if the old starter is indeed bad, I could have it rebuilt. Or to use the new starter, I think the long rod with the correct bracket that the rod runs through, would be a good solution. With the short rod and the bracket that's on it now, it creates an angle that makes it hard to get a direct pull on the switch. The rod is angled quite a bit up and to the right of the starter, so it's not a direct pull. That's my theory on what's happening.

[T-Mo]

I received the original starter - bench testing indicates it's bad. Bummer. I went ahead and ordered the long rod from Steiner. It would be easy to add it and if I want to go back to a push/foot starter, I can. One thing I don't like, is how the battery box is located - you can't remove the battery without removing the battery box, which doesn't want to clear the clutch pedal. I wish the angle bracket that holds the battery box would have been bolted to the other side of the torque tube. It would be easier to replace the battery then.

I used the loader to move a dead deer carcass that some dog drugged in (I presume) and afterwards I snap a couple of pictures. I do need to lube the trip mechanism as it seem unwilling to actually "trip".

[T-Mo]

Well, I did get the battery box out by pressing the clutch pedal down to allow the box mounting bracket to clear. That's the only way to remove the battery is by removing the battery box. I want to make some changes on the battery cable routing and getting the box out allows me to experiment on the different ways I can route the cables. I may end up buying a longer positive cable - I don't like the idea of that terminal being directly underneath the fuel tank.

[Jim Becker]

The battery box etc. are identical to the Farmall A. On an A, the left fender is in the way for taking it out that side. You get a helper to hold the clutch pedal down while removing the battery box. Or, if you are a real man you hold the clutch pedal down with your right hand while removing the battery box with your left.

The positive cable originally attached to the front left transmission top cover bolt.