Distributor question

[Jim in SC]

Kind of a dumb question, but I'm putting in new points, etc on my '51's distributor. The cap springs need either replacing or maybe a good cleaning/de-rusting (PN 353894R1). Before I remove them, I want to be sure the screws that hold them to the distributor body don't hold something else on inside the body. I looked at the blow-up diagram on Messick's but can't really tell. Does anyone know? Here's the blow-up - it's item #s 20 and 21 on the diagram. Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

As I recall without looking, the same screws hold the point plate. Restated, I believe the screws that hold the clips go through 21 and 22 then screw into threaded holes in 12. Putting it back together shouldn't cause any particular problems.

[Dale Finch]

I believe they actually scew into #12. If you don't want to remove the distributor to clean it, you could remove one at a time to keep the plate in place. However, it might be a good time to pull the distributor to check/adjust the points, oil the shaft felt and grease the point cam.

[tst]

you would be better off taking the points plate out as there are springs and advance unit below the plate, they rust and seize up from old age, this way they can be cleaned and lubed up, its only a few screws to pull the plate out

[Dale Finch]

Here are some photos from a recent distributor rebuild:

Rotor, points, condenser removed:

Removing the clips & distributor bolt = removing the plate:

Continuing to disassemble to clean all, and check the springs and weights:

Removing the plug, inserting a grease zerk fitting and adding grease until it comes out hole on opposite side:

Reassembling:

I cannot over emphasize taking photos of every step, so you can figure out how to get it back together!!

[Dale Finch]

A few more steps...a couple I skipped in previous post:

Add grease until it exits the small hole opposite the fitting:

Reassembling after thorough cleaning. Add oil/grease where specified in the Service Manual:

And don't forget the bottom...even if you do not remove it, there is a plug there, as well, that should be removed and greased through a zerk fitting. I cleaned all the old grease out, before reassembly:

After priming and painting. Note the new insulator. I also used a new breaker cover gasket and felt seal that goes in the recess in the breaker cover:

The points were put in after this photo!

I do have it all together...just too many photos!! It is now on my "Spare Parts Shelf" along with a spare rebuilt/painted Touch Control...just hope I don't need them!

Hope this helps.

[Jim in SC]

Dale, it helps a lot! I'm a big fan of taking "disassembly" pictures too. I'm up to about 350 pics of my H project right now. After following your lead, I'm sure I'll be well over 400 by time I'm done. Another question though: Do I need to remove the distributor body to clean/replace the interior parts, or can I leave it attached to the block? I wasn't really planning on removing it, but I guess it might depend on the condition of the interior.

Thanks again for the great info!

Jim

[Dale Finch]

Usually, if I am only changing/checking points, I just do it on the tractor. Many folks on here are better than I OR do not have the patience to do it on the tractor, because you need TINY fingers made of STEEL!! It takes me a long time to measure the .020 with the guage, then switch tools, and tighten the screw without the contact moving! Gotta use the right "precious words" while holding the tongue just right!

If this is on a different tractor and not a cub, maybe there is more room...??

As I mentioned, if you remove one of the clip screws at a time, things should not move out of place. There is a 3rd screw, so you might be able to remove both clips at once, but I can't guarantee the plate wouldn't move.

[Jim in SC]

Thanks, Dale. Yeah, this is on a '51 H I'm s l o w l y working on. As my wife says, "What's your hurry? Do you have an appointment?" LOL. No appointments here, so I'm trying to take my time, "trying" being the operative word.

I do see your point (bad pun there) about having tiny fingers, but I think I'll give it at least a shot while on the tractor. Your pictures of your rebuild are awesome, by the way!

Thanks again for the valuable input!

Jim

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

AS I recall, the 2 screws holding the cap springs do also hold the plate in, but there is a 3rd screw that also holds it so the cap latches can be safely removed without danger of anything else coming out.

[Jim in SC]

Thanks John ( and Dale). I just "bit the bullet" and removed the distributor. It was pretty clean inside, no rust or anything, however the dust plate and the small insulator (bakelite I believe) both were chipped or broken, so I'm replacing them and the points and condenser as well. And stripping and painting the cast iron body while I'm at it. Dale's pictures of his inspired me!

[Jim in SC]

Oh, I just had another question though: Dale, you showed a zerk fitting on the body of the distributor. Mine just has a threaded plug. I'd like to replace it with a zerk. Do you have any idea what size it is? I guess I can always take the distributor to the hardware store to size it.

[staninlowerAL]

Dale's ID: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102719&p=812696#p812696 She will probably be along with the plug size info but my recollection is 1/8 pipe threads.

[Dale Finch]

According to the parts manual, it is part #109 454 1/4-28 NS TAPER STR LUB FITTING
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Parts%20Manuals/TC-37F%20Revision%206%20(08-79)/Group%20-%2014%20-%20Suspension/Group%20-%2014%20-%20Suspension.htm

It's available at hardware stores. There has been a discussion as to why IH did not leave a zerk fitting in there...not sure if a consensus was reached.

[Jim in SC]

Thanks for the zerk info, Dale. And I couldn't figure out why you sent the link on the water bottle post until I read it carefully. My bad - I see now!