New to Me Farmall AV

[Stanton]

It was time to bend the starting crank bracket that I made some time back. Wanted to fit the grille first so I'd know where to make the bends.

Marked the front hole and welded a nut to it. Had just enough room.

Stripped it all down and decided to paint it black instead of red.

Was pleased how it worked out.

[Stanton]

Steering shaft had been worn where it goes through the steering shaft support bracket. Was wondering about finding a bushing of some sort. Previous owner had used a piece of tin stuck in there. Came across a piece of 3/4" diameter copper water pipe tubing. It almost fit... So, I cut it length-wise for some flexibility and to length.

Without any bending, the tube slipped over the threaded portion of the upper shaft. But you can see from this pic, that the piece of tubing stretches out a bit to go over the steering shaft. The cut was a little narrower than 1/8", but this gap is about 1/4" wide.

I used a punch to tap it down the shaft to land it in the worn out area.

Had to tap the cast support piece as well. I was concerned it was all going to be too tight.

All back together. Fits and turns easily; pleasantly surprised.

Now, if I can just take up the 3/4 turn the steering wheel has it in, I'll be happy!

[Stanton]

Ordered a new aluminum emblem for the front grille. Preferred the one with a black background, which is standard for an H or M, but not available for an A, AV or B (unless you really spend some money).

So, I ordered an inexpensive one and painted it (used Krylon Gloss Black, 2 coats).

Then using a Dremel and/or a sanding pad, removed the paint.

It turned out like I wanted.

[Slim140]

Looking great!

[Dale Finch]

Looks really nice! Will you clearcoat it now, to protect the metal from corroding?

A bunch of years ago, my ex-boyfriend and I were restoring a WWII SNJ (military trainer plane). It had several intricate "data plates" with instructions and system diagrams, etc. The reproductions were awful...silkscreened on flat metal plates. The originals were photo-etched, so the lettering was raised. So we stripped off what was left of the paint, and primed and painted them like you did, and for days I was bent over those things scraping off each 1/16-1/8" letter or hydraulic system diagram with a scalpel! Thought I would go cross-eyed! When finished, I sprayed it with a satin clearcoat. They did look great, though, when finished!

[Stanton]

Looks really nice! Will you clearcoat it now, to protect the metal from corroding?

A bunch of years ago, my ex-boyfriend and I were restoring a WWII SNJ (military trainer plane). It had several intricate "data plates" with instructions and system diagrams, etc. The reproductions were awful...silkscreened on flat metal plates. The originals were photo-etched, so the lettering was raised. So we stripped off what was left of the paint, and primed and painted them like you did, and for days I was bent over those things scraping off each 1/16-1/8" letter or hydraulic system diagram with a scalpel! Thought I would go cross-eyed! When finished, I sprayed it with a satin clearcoat. They did look great, though, when finished!

That would be taxing.

Yes, I'm planning to clear coat it. Thanks.

[randallc]

looking good, looking good.

[Stanton]

Some more updates on the AV.

First off, thought I would give a generator overhaul kit a try. Had a couple gens sitting around, so took one and used a drift punch to loosen/remove the pole shoes.

Got my package from Brillman, including wire and connectors:

Will let you know how the generator rebuild goes when I get to it.

Next, the battery box. I already did a How To on this (How to Build a Battery Box) and this one is basically the same.

Started with a plan based on the size of my battery from TSC. All sheet metal is 16 gauge. Got the bottom sides bent up:

Next were the sides. Mine differs a little from the original and after market boxes. If I'm not mistaken on those, you have to remove the whole box to get the battery out. I wanted to be able to keep the battery box in place and only remove the battery (similar to a Cub). So, I laid out the two short sides and the long side. The open side will be on the left, near the fender for battery removal.

Welded sides to bottom and made the top.

Unlike a Cub box, where the removable piece's bottom slides into the bottom plate to hold it in, I needed this removable plate to go on the outside, so water would shed down and not get into the battery compartment. I bent some tabs and welded them to the inside of the panel so they sandwich over the lip of the bottom plate.

Finished bending the sides down on the top, made some t-handle bolts and loop ends mimicking the original and it's done.

Battery fits very nicely and I can remove the battery without removing the box. Objective achieved.

[Stanton]

This AV didn't have a starter rod, so needed to make one. Started with the rod hanger/clip made from 1/8" steel:

It needs a twist:

Starter rod, from dimensions gathered online in various places, was 5/16"D x 10"L from bend to bend with about a 1-1/2" and a 5/8" bend at either end.

Now I should be able to start the AV with my foot:

[Stanton]

Yesterday was such a nice day, low humidity and wind...

[Jim Becker]

. . .
Battery fits very nicely and I can remove the battery without removing the box. Objective achieved.

Will you have to remove the fender?

[Stanton]

. . .
Battery fits very nicely and I can remove the battery without removing the box. Objective achieved.

Will you have to remove the fender?

No, with top off the box, the battery tips and is pulled out. The box also tips to be removed. Clears fender.

[Don McCombs]

Great work, Stanton.

[Stanton]

Aghhhhhh!!

Filled up the AV with coolant for the first time this afternoon. Leaks from the head and at the rear of the engine, inside the clutch housing.

Where would it be leaking back there?!!

[staninlowerAL]

I think I read about a expansion plug at the rear of the engine, not sure. Try a search for the post. It was not too long ago.