Governor adjustment issues on 140

[inairam]

I have a 130 and 2 - 140s One of the 140s I can not get the governor/carb adjusted properly.

the 130 and my 60s 140 throttle up and down very nicely and operate fine under load. The 70s 140 will not throttle all of the way down unless you push the gov to carb control rod forward. It will throttle up but It also ( by ear) does not run up as high as 130 and other 140. It does operate under load. I have adjusted the control rod to the manual several times and adjusted the high throttle limit bolt and the bumper spring

A few observations/ notes:

1) This 140 have a foot pedal the others do not have it.
2) the hand throttle will travel well past the notches on low or back but will only do about 80% to the high or forward. Some of this on the high side may be related to the foot pedal linkage.

I have had this 140 for about 2 years. When I got it it was not running and I did do some work on the governor including replacing the spring. I did not run it too much last year. This year I had some problems with rust in the gas tank and the governor control arm being bound up so I was working on cleaning the gas tank and freeing up the governor arm. So I was in the governor this year but I just removed the cover got the arm fee and put it back on.

Any suggestions?

[Ohiowoodchuck]

I had similar issue. I actually found the aftermarket governor spring weaker then the original spring that was 40-50 years old. I replaced it with one I ordered directly from international. I then had a issue with the foot pedal return spring. I replaced it with one from the hardware store. I then adjusted the rod from the hand throttle to the governor. After I did all this I was finally able to get my 140 to operate thru the whole rpm range.

[inairam]

I do remember there are a number of part numbers for the governor spring for the c-123 (including the spring for the cub governor) depending on the application. I was never sure I got the correct one. I did order one just now from Messicks - 2x Steiner's price

The return spring on the foot pedal was broken and the little clip was missing when I got the tractor. I fabbed the clip and I did get a spring from the hardware store from what was left of the spring I had. I do not think that spring is an issue but maybe I should adjust everything with that spring off and then re-attached when done. The way the linkage works the foot pedal only allows you to increase RPM from the throttle setting not decrease it but it is easy enough to take it out of the equation for troubleshooting.

My next step will be the adjust around the throttle as you suggest and replace the governor spring and then readjust the gov to carb linkage with the foot pedal spring off.

[Ohiowoodchuck]

That’s where I got from oem spring from also. Take the foot throttle out of the equation. Adjust the carb linkage once and make the rest of your adjustments at the governor and throttle rod. I kept messing with the carb linkage for days and finally gave up. Not until I put the new oem spring in did I get the results I was looking for.

[inairam]

I got back to this and will call it a win. It still has a few issues but they can be addressed with the hood on.

What I learned

RPM - reading differed between IH mechanical and induction tach:
I decided to calibrate my induction tach by putting it on a 140, I consider to be running well, that also had a mechanical tach. the two tachs agree well below 1000-1200 but started to diverge above that range. At full throttle, the 140 mech tach read 1500-1550 (just above the 540 PTO line on the face) while the induction tach read 1725. Now I had a target reading on the induction tach.

An A is not a 140
The procedure for adjusting the governor carb linkage for the A is to go to a full throttle setting. For the 140 the setting is 3/4. I had no problem getting the RPM up above 1700 in the induction tach when I went to 3/4

The foot throttle is part of the linkage - never mentioned
In a standard A-140 throttle set up the throttle lever and the rod have no adjustment connection and 100% of the adjustment in on the gov - carb linkage. The foot pedal option adds an adjustment clevis at the throttle end as well. This one also had to be adjusted to get the range.

Now that I had the High idle and wanted set the low idle but could not get it to go below 850-900 rpm. I removed the pin on the clevis at the throttle and was able to get it to go down to 400-500 rpm by hand. I adjusted the clevis and got the low idle but lost the high idle. I tried one more time and decided to go for the high idle and get back to the low idle later. I was getting closer but just decided another day.

I added washers on the drop link to the foot pedal to help the link clear the clevis on the rod to the governor. This was impacting my high throttle for sure. The clearances between all of the rods are very tight as some parts of the throttle range.

The downlink also has a clevis. It appears to be at max length. My next step is to try to shorten that some to see if that helps with low idle

This is a picture of the throttle linkage with the lever set and far back ( low) it will go.

I think the procedure has to be one of the repeated adjustments on gov carb linkage and the foot throttle linkage checking high and low idle along the way.

There is not a lot of info on the foot throttles. Hope this helps.