Farmall 140 runs for 30 seconds and cuts off

[Mht]

I’d say that the problem lies with the carb itself. Probably an issue with the float and or needle valve. I don’t have anything but cubs so I’m not familiar with the carb on a 140 but based on your last post I feel the problem must be with the carb itself

[Dale Finch]

Did you remove & check the carb 90° inlet fitting with the screen?

[jdeere86]

just took apart my carb on 140 cleaned all jets out good and cleaned fuel tank -- now running good (knocks on wood) let me know if you have any questions

[AriesEd68]

Yeah, I’m thinking the problem might be at the carb. I’ll check more on it this week and post a follow up. Thanks.

[Eugene]

Coil or condenser problem. Timing light or spark tester and someone to help start the tractor.

With full carburetor fuel bowl engine should run about 1 minute before shutting off.

[AriesEd68]

Just a follow up on my 1974 Farmall 140, I added more fuel and it started and I noticed it didn’t shut off this time so I let it run for at least five minutes and then I mowed grass with it and a Woods M5 Dixie Cutter behind it for about half an hour and seems to be running fine. Whatever it was must have worked it’s way out of the system, I assume. Also, are any of the additives such as “Mechanic in a Bottle”, “Seafoam”, etc any value for keeping the carb clean etc?

[Don McCombs]

As long as your fuel tank is clean and you're putting clean fuel into it, your carburetor shouldn't be getting dirty. Having said that, one of the worst enemies of older fuel systems today is ethanol in the fuel. Ethanol is hygroscopic and draws moisture from the atmosphere. That moisture tends to accumulate in the carburetor, resulting in white deposits in the interior that can clog orifices and build up in other areas. Using non-ethanol fuel is best. But, if that's not readily available or affordable, Sta-Bil Marine will help keep the deposits under control.

[AriesEd68]

Yeah, I use Exxon Regular from my nearest station and made me think of that too. $3.94 a gallon right now in Southern VA. I’ll check on the Sta-Bil. Thanks.

[Hunt_man777]

Hello all, I don't mean to hijack another members post especially with this very post being my first one one the forum but in regards to the screen in the sediment bowl. My '59 140 bowl doesn't actually have the screen up top. Having saod this i do believe the bowl thats currently on it is an aftermarket i believe my dad's dad put on there back 20 years ago when i was still in elementary school. So with all that should i look into finding a proper screened bowl or let it ride till it if it becomes an issue which i do not forsee myself

[Jim Becker]

Your sediment bowl most likely had a screen in it in the first place. Replacement screens are available. You can probably find one at a local parts store. Here it is at a site sponsor.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/235fp.htm

[AriesEd68]

New problem on my Farmall 140. I was prying some dirt out of on one of the little vents on the front of the radiator about a couple inches from the top center and it started leaking green anti freeze and drained all of it out the front. Not sure what to do.

[Jim Becker]

I'd suggest taking the radiator to a radiator shop to see if they can fix the leak.

[AriesEd68]

Another problem on my Farmall 140, I must have over-tightened the fuel line fitting near the sediment bowl like the one shown at the link and it separated where it narrows a bit in the hole where it screws under the sediment bowl. Now, it leaks gas there. Is there a replacement or some other option to remedy that at a Napa or Tractor Supply store without having to order that fitting?
https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/Steine ... S2622?$lg$

[Jim Becker]

The part pointed to by your link is intended to break through the narrow part as it is tightened. After breaking, the inner part is expected to compress onto the tube and into the sediment bowl to create a seal. It should then function just like a conventional 2-piece compression fitting. If that is more or less how it behaved, maybe it just wasn't tightened enough. You might get some spray lubricant onto all the peces and try again.

I prefer working with the 2-piece style. I also like to initially tighten either style into a brass fitting, if I have the right style brass fitting on hand. Local auto supply houses should have the fittings. The ferrules can be found in hardware stores. Standard brake line tubing (which is the usual replacement material for Cub gas lines) comes with the right style nuts but the double flair ends need to be cut off. Here is a compression ferrule:
https://shop.hoseandfittings.com/catalo ... 0C-05.html