Farmall Cub

I got a 68 model 140 and the tractor has sat for the last three years. I’m replacing the carb on it and for some reason the throttle rod doesn’t seem to be long enough. I didn’t check it with the old carb. If I do the standard procedure of putting tractor at full throttle the lever comes to almost the water pump. I then put the carb at full throttle and before I can get the pin in, the Clevis unscrews from the rod. I bought a replacement zenith carb.

Are you sure you purchased the correct zenith model? The zenith carb in the 140 is different than the zenith in cub. I just went through governor clean up and adjustment and carb replacement on 2 - 140s and did not have fit problems.

Did you look inside the governor at the spring? I found it a little hard to get the exact part number called out in the manuals. The C123 was also in the 240 and in an IH bulldozer. In those applications, the spring is the same as the one used in the Cub and numbered cubs. Maybe the PO used that spring which is much shorter than the one for the 140.

The carb is the correct zenith for the 140. My rod measures 10” long. I took the governor off and it appears to have the correct spring. Can someone give me the governor travel measurement and where I can find a c-123 manual.

Also the procedure for the throttle rod at the operators station to the governor. For some reason there is about an inch of threads sticking out of the clevis. I think maybe it’s just all out of adjustment. I bought a new carb because the old one was nothing but rust and corrosion on the inside.

This is the page on adjustment. there are some manuals for sale on ebay.

Ok now it’s making sense on what’s going on. Is there anything in the manual about attaching or adjusting the rod from the operators station to the right hand side of the governor.

This is all I found on adjustment or installation.

Can you post again. Nothing came thru on the last post.

the page I posted is all I found.

Ok thank you. I wonder where it should be set at. Low idle speed or wide open or in between. I don’t think it was right. Like I mentioned earlier there was a inch of threads hanging out the inside of the clevis. Maybe somebody can measure where it hooks at the operators station and tell me the measurement from the back of the clevis to the last thread.

You are setting the clevises to match the specified engine speed at ideal rpm 425 +/- 25 and max RPM 1575 +/-25 not the other way around.

After 50 years my guess is no 2 140s will have the same measurements of the clevises

Your right but wouldn’t a measurement get me close.

not really. the rods and clevises are bent and things are worn and they will be different between machines

If you think things are way off start over.

I would disconnect the rod from the throttle to the governor
set the throttle all of the way back ( toward the operator) to idle position
Reset the clevises so the throttle does not move the governor. That should give you something close to idle.

Adjust the other side per the manual and do the final adjustments on the carb per the manual.

Thanks for the info. I’ll go thru it this weekend hopefully. I’m waiting on the correct rod for the governor to carb linkage. Hope to have it tomorrow.

So I finally got the tractor up and running. The only problem I seem to have is high idle and it seems to relate to the governor. I adjusted the buffer spring with no luck. I’ve adjusted the carb to governor rod a couple times and doesn’t seem to make a difference. I took the governor off and looked at it a few weeks ago and didn’t see anything abnormal. The bushings/bearings were ok and the weights moved as they should of. I noticed that I don’t get the movement on the carb side of the governor when I’m moving the throttle lever. The spring inside looks ok. Any advice guys