140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

inairam · Postby **inairam** » Sat Feb 13, 2021 8:21 am

I went to use my 140 to clean up a light snow. I started it and went off to shovel some walks and tight areas. By the time got I back it was running for 20 minutes.

When I climbed up and put it in gear it did not want to move. It would stall when I let the clutch out like it was locked up somehow. ( No trouble getting it in gear.) Would not even try to move/ rock

left it running and got my cub and cleared the drive. I went back to it and was able to move it after maybe an hour of running.

It was in the high 20s low 30 and the rear was under a tarp before I started it.

Ice in the finals? Trans? brakes? If it is the finals and brakes I do not see how running the engine would melt the ice.

Any suggestions?

tst · Postby **tst** » Sat Feb 13, 2021 8:33 am

water in the transmission oil and froze

SamsFarm · Postby **SamsFarm** » Sat Feb 13, 2021 4:27 pm

tst wrote:water in the transmission oil and froze

Yep!

I had that with a 1951 cub I used to have.

Once the gray goo was thawed and drained.

No more lock-ups

If that is not it, then it is stuck in two gears at the same time!

SamsFarm · Postby **SamsFarm** » Sat Feb 13, 2021 4:38 pm

inairam wrote:I do not see how running the engine would melt the ice.

Heat transfer!

Cast iron conducts heat!

Do you have a underslung exhaust?

That could warm things up a bit too!

inairam · Postby **inairam** » Sun Feb 14, 2021 9:07 am

What is the opinion of adding Seafoam to the trans oil and finals? After an oil change of course.

Seafoam says it controls moisture and has de-ice and anti-gel properties. It is used in engine oil.

Postby **Gary Dotson** » Sun Feb 14, 2021 9:14 am

Why not just change the fluid, to get rid of the water?

inairam · Postby **inairam** » Sun Feb 14, 2021 9:19 am

Gary Dotson wrote:Why not just change the fluid, to get rid of the water?

I am saying after the oil change as a preventive measure.

Postby **Don McCombs** » Sun Feb 14, 2021 9:51 am

I think it's de-ice and anti-gel properties relates to it's use as a fuel additive. Gary has the solution to your issues. I would also flush with kerosene to get rid of any residual water and sludge.

Lt.Mike · Postby **Lt.Mike** » Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:20 am

Ice in the finals? Trans?

That’d be my guess too.
I had one do this. On mine it was the trans. I put a block of wood under it to set a heat gun on and left it blowing on the bottom of the case while I went in and made lunch. When I came back out it was thawed enough to move to the barn and drain.

outdoors4evr · Postby **outdoors4evr** » Mon Feb 15, 2021 6:18 am

inairam wrote:What is the opinion of adding Seafoam to the trans oil and finals? After an oil change of course.

Seafoam says it controls moisture and has de-ice and anti-gel properties. It is used in engine oil.

If looking for a trans fluid that has a water handling property, I'd recommend using HyTran. It seems to keep water suspended pretty well - minimizing the pool of water (ice) at the bottom of the trans with the oil floating above.

inairam · Postby **inairam** » Mon Feb 15, 2021 7:53 am

I know Hytran is speced for the later cubs and I assume the later 140. I have never used it in the trans just in the hydraulics.

Is the trans nosier with it over gear oil? I think the viscosity is like a W30, if I remember correctly, vs W90 for gear oil

I assume the protection is the same or better or it would not be speced.

Postby **Eugene** » Mon Feb 15, 2021 8:32 am

Hytran = ISO 32 = 10W

tst · Postby **tst** » Mon Feb 15, 2021 9:11 am

hytran works nice except if you have leaky wet seals it is thinner and will leak more, 10 w oil is not the same, hytrans has detergents in it, not saying you cannot buy 10 w detergent but most seems to be non detergent

Super A · Postby **Super A** » Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:35 am

inairam wrote:
Gary Dotson wrote:Why not just change the fluid, to get rid of the water?

I am saying after the oil change as a preventive measure.

Thinking out loud here: I think I would go to Hy-Tran (the real stuff, from caseIH) if I was concerned about water. Hy-Tran holds water instead of letting it settle, so I >think< it would prevent the rear end from freezing up.

However, I wasn't always paying attention in some of my science classes..... :oops:

Al

outdoors4evr · Postby **outdoors4evr** » Mon Feb 15, 2021 1:41 pm

Hytran was recommended in later cubs mostly because Hytran was invented somewhere in the middle of the build timeline.
I don't think anything changed in the design of the transmission that allowed the use of Hytran. (different materials and such) It was just deemed a "better product"' for the job.

Note: Because it is thinner, some people have noticed having to wait longer for the transmission to stop spinning before shifting.

Farmall Cub

140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

Re: 140 would not move in the cold like is was locked up

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