New Member from Georgia

[Butterbean]

Thank you for allowing me to be a part of this group. I joined because I need a whole lot of direction. I inherited a 1951 Farmall Super A many years ago. If ran pretty good the first few years. Used it for a very small garden. Transmission started to make a ticking sound so I parked it with the intention of dealing with it later. Six to seven years later I am finally getting around to dealing with it. I pushed it into the little shop and have started dismantling parts of it. It may get fixed or it may not but it is my diversion project for the fall and winter. This Super A will be worked on in spurts as time and $ allow. I am a pastor of a church which of course is my first priority, but I love working with my hands. As a kid, I would spend time on the farm with my Papa and later with my farming uncle. Wonderful days and wonderful memories. Thank you folks again for allowing me to be with you and I hope to get to know many of you through my simpleton questions about the tractor and this journey. BTW, my real name is Tom.

[Dale Finch]

Welcome Tom!! Many folks here have Super A's, plus, after your second post, you'll have access to the manuals section which includes some for the Super A.

[staninlowerAL]

Welcome to the Forum. Checking your zip code shows that you are on the east side of Atlanta. There's forum members throughout the southeast and some will be along to say welcome. If you have specific questions, post them on the SA Forum and someone will lend a hand with answering questions. You may even put together a minifest where someone will pay you a visit to work on your SA. Stan

[Glen]

Hi,
Before taking the tractor apart, I would check the bolts that hold the wheels on at the hubs, and the bolts that hold the wheel rims onto the center part of the wheels.
Use a wrench and try to tighten them all.
On Cubs they come loose sometimes, and the wheels make clicking or strange sounds when moving.

I would check the transmission oil level, and change the oil in it, if you haven't.
Cubs can get water in them from rain, or condensation in the housing over time.
I'm not sure if the Super A can get rain in the trans, maybe someone that know will say.
I would think it could have the condensation.

It could make noise because the oil is low.

The 2 final drives need the oil levels checked too, they are separate from the trans.

Below is the info I post for new people on here, a little is repeated like I wrote above.

The Super A operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Super A needs.

Below is the Super A operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is an index beginning on page 74.
It shows how the Super A originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 20.
The Lubrication Guide picture is on page 22, and shows what needs lubrication.
Several pages after that show how to lubricate the tractor.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

Lubricating the fan hub is shown on page 34. The hub uses motor oil. If it gets low on oil, it can wear the fan bearing, or the fan can seize.
I use a clean, pump oil can to put oil in the fan hub on Cubs, if there is room on the Super A you could use the oil can.

The manual shows the electrical system that a Super A originally had.
It shows the electrical system with cutout.
Newer tractors have the voltage regulator system.
The Super A originally had a 6 volt, positive ground electrical system.

The 10 weight motor oil mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.
The manual tells how to check and change the Touch Control fluid, and remove the air from the system.
Be sure to check the fluid with the arms in the rear, or down position, the manual says.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Super A. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Super A, the transmission, and 2 final drives.
The manual tells about changing the trans oil on page 25, and the final drive oils on page 26.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search box at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can find info in posts that have been made.

[Butterbean]

Appreciate all of you that have welcomed me to the forum. Looking forward to interaction from each of you as I work on the Super A.

Glen, you mentioned "before you take the tractor apart." To late. I've thrown my hat over the fence so now I have to go get it. I have parts removed all over the place. I'll certainly start looking at the manual link you gave. Thx.

Dale. I will check out the Super A section once I get a handle on navigating the site.

Stan. You are correct. I am in East GA. I like the thought of someone taking a look at the tractor with tips once I get farther along.

Thanks again. Tom

[Mike in Louisiana]

Tom welcome to the forum.

[tldec50]

Welcome to the forum Pastor Tom I am just east of you.

[Jim Becker]

Your tractor is new enough that it should have the later electrical system with a voltage regulator.

When did it produce the ticking sound? If, for example, it ticked only when moving the probable location of the problem is totally different than if it ticked when standing in neutral with the engine idling.

[Pap]

Welcome to the forum Tom. Good luck with your project and Enjoy Your Ride.

[Butterbean]

The ticking or clicking sound was constant whether in motion or in neutral. It is a moot point at the moment b/c I have taken so much off the tractor.BTW, I picked up the head and pistons from the machine shop yesterday. Clean and shiny Hopefully sometime soon I'll start installing the pistons. The thing I do need some direction on is the PTO removal. I've taken the bolts out of the rear. When trying to separate it from the transmission the right side separated pretty easily but the left side doesn't want to separate. I don't have a manual to consult. I don't see any bolt or fastener. Do any of you have any thoughts about this? Does the PTO simply slide into shaft of the transmission or is there some clip I'm not seeing?

[staninlowerAL]

Check the Quick Links tab above for a manual.

[Gary Dotson]

I’ve never removed the pto from one of these but I wonder if you might have a stubborn alignment dowel preventing it from coming free.

[Butterbean]

Just came in from the shop. I took the left fender off finally and the PTO came right out. Evidently it needed just a bit more room on the left side. I have some pictures I'll post as soon as I learn how.

[Jim Becker]

One of the fender bolts screws into the PTO housing.