New Member from Upstate NY

[Floater]

Hello -

I'm a recent inductee to old tractors, like within the last two months. I happened upon an old Masey Harris Pony, and while looking at it I was surprised to see a lot of familiar technology. My first ever restoration project was a 1944 Willys MB Jeep, and the Pony is a lot like a Jeep, but without the body. After seeing the Pony I immediately went home and started researching antique tractors, which invariably brought me to the Farmall Cub. I discovered three key things which make a tractor project different from a Jeep project: 1) there's lots of Cubs out there 2) they're inexpensive - remarkably inexpensive compared to a WWII Jeep, and 3) there's an abundance of parts (unlike the Jeep). My Jeep is done, Winter is coming, and I need a new project. I started looking for a Cub.

I purchased a 1956 Cub a few weeks ago. It runs, is in decent shape and came with the grader blade (a.k.a. snow plow to us Northerners), chains, a carry-all, a single point hitch and a mold-board (?) dirt plow. It does have hydraulics that work. First thing I did - bought an entire set of manuals (my Jeep experience has taught me a lot about this restoration hobby). I'm already tearing into it. First thing off - the miserable operator's platform. There were some rusty fasteners on the Jeep, but nothing like the rounded-off, cancerous, welded-by-rust nuts and bolts on the platform. I learned some new techniques and an appreciation for penetrating oil and time from getting the platform off. Someone in it's past had glued carpet onto the platform, and it is in rough shape. My first question - are new platforms available from any vendors? I've looked, and only seen used ones on-line...

I'm not sure how far I'm going with the Cub. It needs to be mechanically perfect first, but as to how it looks - we'll see. For the past few day I've been wire-wheeling the platform, pedals, battery bow, seat parts, etc. I'm not able to paint in the Winter, and by the time April rolls around the whole thing might be bare metal!

Anyway, I like the Forum. There's a similar Jeep forum (G503.com) and it has really helped me; this one is the same - experts willing to share their knowledge. So - Thanks!

Reg
P.S. One if the reasons I bought the Cub - it's the same year as me

[Dale Finch]

If you have the platform off the tractor, now would be a good time to replace the seal in the right differential, since it requires removal of that axle extension that the platform attaches to.

This would entail draining the transmission, which you probably want to do anyway, and removing the right wheel & final.

And while those are off, you might as well replace the seals in the final. Then the final oil pans can be removed, cleaned & reinstalled with new gaskets.

So, you might have noticed that these little guys are pretty simple, but it's REALLY easy to fall down that slippery slope of "while you are working on xxx, you might as well do xxx"!!!

Welcome from one of the many Cubaholics!!!

[Bob McCarty]

Welcome to the forum Reg. New platforms aren't available, but you should be able to find a good used one. Place an ad in the Vine classified subforum and there may be one near you.

[Floater]

Thanks Dale and Bob. I'm well aware of how a project like this can blossom. Fortunately (or maybe unfortunately) I'm one of those guys who works from the bottom outward. I knew from the get-go that I'd be taking this Cub completely apart. That's why I used the term "mechanically perfect".

I will put a want ad in the Vine for a platform. Thanks again!

[Pap]

Welcome to the forum Floater.
Good luck with your project and Enjoy Your Ride.

P.S. I think ,56 was a good year too.

[Gary Dotson]

You picked on one of the meaner projects, right from the get go. Most of it is a piece of cake, after that. Welcome to the forum and enjoy your project.

[Mike in Louisiana]

Welcome to the forum

[ajhbike]

oh yea, getting the platform off is not as difficult as the brake shaft/collars. As you know from previous projects....it is heat, PB and mother time.

[Glen]

Hi,
Welcome to the website.
Below is the info I usually post for someone with a 1956 Cub.
You said you bought manuals, but they may have changed some of the info in the operator's manual you have, if it is for newer Cubs.
This operator's manual was made for the mid 1950's Cubs.

The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1955 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1, and the index begins on page 79.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1955 and 1956 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
They have said on here that IH didn't make a new manual every year.

The Touch Control fluid mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.
The manual tells how to check and change the fluid, and remove the air from the system.
Check the fluid with the arms in the rear, or down position, the manual says.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can search for info in posts that have been made.

Page 29 is gone from the manual, so there is no info about checking and changing the final drive oils, steering gear oil, and other things.
Below are 2 pages from the manual before it, the missing info is on them, beginning at number 24.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-19.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-20.jpg

[Glen]

Hi,
J P Tractor Salvage at the bottom of the page might have a good used platform.

Here is info for removing a final drive, and replacing a brake, if you need it.

Before removing parts of the Cub from the rear, be sure to wedge the front axle pivot.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over if you remove parts of them from the rear, without putting wedges at the front axle.
You will need to make the wedges from wood.
Below is a pic of the wedges.
Hammer them in tight, be sure they don't hit at the small end.
Check them some during the work, to be sure they don't come loose.
Wedges cut at a lesser angle might stay in place better.

You can look in the holes in the front and rear of the final drives, using a good light, and see if the brake areas are dry.
There should be no oil where the brakes are.

The trans could have water in the oil, raising the oil level. Or the oil could be overfilled, and make the seals leak, if they leak.
The Cub operator's manual shows where the 3 transmission oil plugs are.
The oil filler plug is to the rear of the shifter.
The oil level plug is low on the left side of the trans. Fill it until oil runs out the hole.
The oil drain plug is at the bottom of the trans, visible from under the platform.
The trans holds 3 1/2 Pints of oil.
All the capacities are in the operator's manual.

TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has lots of parts.
Below is their listings for the oil seal in the transmission, for the shaft the brakes are on.
There is a pic in the listing of where it goes.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm

This oil seal is in the final drive, behind the brake drum.
There are pics of the final drives, and where the seal goes.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm

TM Tractor has gaskets also.

Below is a post by Dale Finch showing removing a final drive, and repairing a brake, and replacing 1 oil seal. It doesn't show replacing the oil seal in the final drive.
I would replace both oil seals, if you are removing a final drive.
The Cub in the post has the 1st style of brake, the rod is attached to the brake band.
IH changed to the 2nd style of brake during 1953, the rod is separate from the brake band on those, and there is other linkage for the brake.
Be sure to buy parts for the right style of brake.

viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436

The manual says on page 24 to use 80W gear oil in the transmission and final drives.
Nowadays there is 80W-90 gear oil, you can use that.

The right final drive has the Seed Plate Drive, to run planters. It is the end of the axle that you see. It turns the same speed as the axle turns.
There is an oil seal in the cap there.

Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, telling about it.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2063.jpg

The 2nd pic below, from TM Tractor, shows the style of brake a 1956 Cub originally has.

The 3rd pic shows putting the final drive on the Cub, it is the right side in the pic.
Be sure both ends of the brake pin go in the holes for them as you put the final drive on, it can break the casting if the pin is not in the holes, and you tighten the bolts holding the final drive on.
There are 6 bolts in a circle that hold the final drive on the Cub.
There are dowel pins at the top and bottom also, the final drive may fit tight on the pins, it should be snug on the pins. If any of the pins are gone, it should be replaced, TM Tractor has new dowel pins.

[Stanton]

Welcome to the Forum, Reg!

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Now that you’ve logged your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

You've already ordered manuals, but you'll be able to download any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.

There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Take some pictures of your tractor and post them, we’d like to see it in whatever condition it's in. Progress pics are nice, too.

Remember:

• Pictures are limited to 500 KB file size. Use an image reducer app or program to downsize pics.
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.

Glad you joined us.

[Floater]

Thanks for all the info. Before introducing myself I spent quite a bit of time in the How-To section and bookmarked some threads on splitting stands and Dale's excellent Left Final Drive Removal series. I'm gearing-up for some serious wrenching by shopping for an engine hoist and more jack stands (my '44 Jeep stays suspended for the Winter). I've got a lot to do, but that's the way I like it.

Thanks Guys!
Reg

[GoldenHillFarm]

Thanks for all the info. Before introducing myself I spent quite a bit of time in the How-To section and bookmarked some threads on splitting stands and Dale's excellent Left Final Drive Removal series. I'm gearing-up for some serious wrenching by shopping for an engine hoist and more jack stands (my '44 Jeep stays suspended for the Winter). I've got a lot to do, but that's the way I like it.

Thanks Guys!
Reg

Hi fellow Northern New Yorker. We're not too far apart. I see you have a 44 jeep we have a 48 that runs good but tub needs floors. We use it around the farm so it doesn't need to be fancy it's our vintage side by side can't afford one of those new ones. Also have numerous projects going all the time.

[Tired_Iron]

Welcome to the Forum!