New 49 Cub Owner and New Member

[IH Fan]

Hello,
Thank you for adding me as a member. My wife and I just bought a new to us 49 Cub. We live in southern Missouri. This tractor when fixed up will for the wife to drive as I have an IH 484 for the bigger stuff. Looking forward to learning a lot from you all. By trade I am electrical engineer so I hope I can answer a few electrical questions for the group.
Best Regards,
Mike

[Bob McCarty]

Mike, Welcome to the forum. Let us know if we can be of any help.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub owner's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1949 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.

The 10 weight motor oil mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.
The manual tells how to check and change the Touch Control fluid, and remove the air from the system.
Be sure to check the fluid with the arms in the rear, or down position, the manual says.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search box at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can find info in posts that have been made.

[Pap]

Welcome to the forum Mike and your bride.
Y'all look around and see if you can learn about your cub.
And enjoy the ride.

[Dale Finch]

Welcome, Mike & (& wife)!
When you get the little cub all fixed up, she'll be running circles around you!

[IH Fan]

Hello All,
Thank you for the great welcome to the forum. Unfortunately our new/old Cub had a plugged oil screen when we first ran it. Now we have some damaged bearings. Got to pull the crank and have it machined. At least the cylinders still look good. So begins the splitting of the tractor. Will probably install a new clutch while it is split apart. Thanks again for the great welcome.
Best Regards,
Mike

[Mike in Louisiana]

Mike, welcome to the forum.

[Barnyard]

Welcome to the forum, Mike. Plenty of information can be found here. If you can ever attend one of the many CubFests that are around you can benefit from some great hands on experience.

[Glen]

Hi,
If the Cub engine hadn't been run lately, and there was no oil pressure on the oil gauge, it might have just needed the oil pump primed, unless you removed the engine oil pan and found the intake screen plugged.
It is sort of a common thing with Cubs to need to prime the oil pump after they sit for sometime.

Below is a post I made about priming the oil pump. My post is part way down the page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60

[IH Fan]

Thanks Glen,

The pick up was fully plugged. It looked like paper filter material. It had oil in the filter housing so I think it was just being starved. The screen was collapsed so I think it had been going on for quite some time. I measured one of the rod journals after polishing it and its .006 under spec. I thought I heard a rod knock when it started. So out comes the crankshaft and off to the machine shop. (In a previous life I was a Honda tech for 15 years) I sure will prime the pump this time. Thanks again for the picture.

Best Regards,
Mike

[Stanton]

Welcome to the Forum, fellow Missourian! Beautiful country down near Mountain Home.

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Now that you’ve logged your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

You'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.

There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Take some pictures of your tractors and post them, we’d like to see them.

Remember:

• Pictures are limited to 500 KB file size. Use an image reducer app or program to downsize pics.
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.

Glad you joined us.

[Glen]

Hi,
If the clutch it has is in good condition, I would consider using it again.
Some of the people on here like the original IH clutches better than new clutches, but I don't know if your Cub has the original clutch or not.
They have said on here that some of the new clutches are not good quality.

I remember a person wrote that he put in a new clutch, and used the Cub a short time, and the clutch quit working right.
I think he looked in the hand hole under the clutch housing, and saw that 1 pressure plate finger had bent down. He thought the metal in the finger was not hard enough.

The pressure plates and clutch parts at TM Tractor at the bottom of the page are probably good quality.
I haven't used them, but people on here say they are good.

Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read it before, or when working on a Cub.
There is a contents on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

Below is info about the clutch, if you need it.

One of the experts on here said if the clutch pilot bushing, in the crankshaft hole looks good, and measures ok, to use it again. He said they don't all need replacing.

If you replace the pilot bushing, after putting it in the crankshaft hole, be sure to measure it's ID with a dial caliper before putting the pressure plate on the flywheel.
If it's size is too small, the bushing needs reaming to make it bigger.

The pilot bushing ID can shrink after driving it in the hole. Then if the bushing ID is too small, and you put the Cub together, the clutch shaft won't stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down.
Then the gears grind when trying to shift them.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing the running clearance for the pilot bushing, at Spline and clutch shaft.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... -05-02.jpg

If the bushing is too small, it needs reaming.

The graphite material sticks out of a new throwout bearing 5/16", they can wear down with use, and need replacing.
They have said on here to soak a new throwout bearing in light motor oil for a day or more before putting it in.
Also they have said on here, grease the throwout bearing grease fitting with cheap grease, so the oil in the grease absorbs into the graphite material.
The original bearings had a small hole at the top of them for excess grease to come out.
Grease it until grease comes out the hole, if the new bearing has the hole.

Be sure the throwout bearing holder is straight, and check it's holes, and the pin at the top of the holder for wear.
The holder should not move up and down, or side to side, so the throwout bearing is centered on the 3 pressure plate fingers.
Bend the upper part of the holder if needed, so it is out almost against the casting, and has very little side to side movement. The bearing has to be centered side to side with the 3 fingers.
TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has a new holder and pin, if you need them.
Their holder is for Cubs serial number 32229 and above.

The holder has to hold the throwout bearing snugly, so the top of the bearing doesn't flop down and rub on the fingers.

Turn the clutch shaft when the Cub is split and be sure it turns straight, and it's not bent.

The hub on the clutch disc sticks out farther on one side than the other. The side that sticks out farther goes to the rear.

Tighten the 6 pressure plate bolts that hold it on the flywheel evenly, it is loading the springs as you tighten the bolts.

The pressure plate fingers height should be 1 3/16" - 1 1/4", they recommend on here.
The fingers need to be the same height to form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.
The finger height is set when the clutch is fully assembled on the flywheel.
Tighten the nuts on the finger height adjustments tight when done adjusting them, so they don't come loose.

I would put a light layer of grease in the pilot bushing, and on the end of the clutch shaft that goes in the bushing, when you put the Cub together.

If the rear crankshaft seal leaks any, when the Cub is split is a good time to replace it.
You have to remove the flywheel to replace it.
They have said on here that the oil seal sold nowadays doesn't fit well in the original seal holders, on older Cubs.
The seal is too loose in the holder.
Member tst machines used holders and puts in a slightly bigger OD oil seal in them, so the seal fits tight in the holder.
You can write him a PM, if you want info about it.
He may have an ad for them in The Vine section on here.

TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has new parts for Cubs.

When you have it together again, a 1949 Cub should have 1" of clutch pedal free play, at the top of it's travel, measured at the surface where you put your foot.

Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, showing adjusting the clutch pedal free play.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-40.jpg

All 3 pedals should have return springs under the platform, to hold the pedals up against the platform.
If the clutch pedal had no return spring, it would always go ahead, and the throwout bearing would touch on the pressure plate fingers.
The clutch pedal should move freely at it's base, sometimes the clutch pedal base gets tight from no lube. Work penetrating oil, or oil into the base if it hasn't been oiled lately.
If the pedal is free at the base, it usually pulls out of the clutch housing about 1/4", that helps to get oil into the base. There is a length the base goes into the housing to work oil into.

Below is a pic of a pressure plate, showing where to measure to, the pressure plate has to be assembled on the flywheel, not off, like the pic is.

The 2nd pic from TM Tractor shows the clutch pedal base. 2/3 of the shiny area at the right makes contact in the hole made in the clutch housing.
The 1/3 on the left of the pic sticks through the hole.
Push the pedal base back into the housing when done oiling it.
Good luck.