1950 Farmall Cub Refresh

[tractorjunky]

The last couple weeks I have been working on the wheel rim. I was excited at first. The paint that was on the rim did not look like it was bonded well. So I got some paint stripper and started stripping the paint away which worked quite well. I was able to get most of the rim down to the galvanizing.

galvanized rim

Then I got to the part of the rim where the galvanizing is gone and has been replaced by rust.

rim rust

galvanized to rust transition

I was hoping to be able to strip the paint and leave the rim original. Now I am not sure what to do as I would like to keep or reproduce the original look of the rim and not use shiny paint. I took a quick look at the other rim and it appears to have a decent amount of rust as well. With the rust being mainly around the valve stem, I wonder if the tires were loaded at one time.

I done a little looking into Cold Galvanizing Compound in a spray can. I am thinking of trying this on the rim and then giving it a coat of Matte Clear Coat to try and reproduce the original sheen of the rim. From what I have read, the galvanizing compound doesn't get very hard so that is where I thought the clear would help.

I need to finish cleaning the rim and try out the compound and see what happens.

[tractorjunky]

We were able to sneak away into the shop for a few minutes this afternoon. Finally after removing the right final drive 7 months ago, it has been reunited with the rest of the tractor.

Even though I painted the bolts months ago, they still received paint damage during reinstallation. This is why we are painting the hidden or hard to get areas as we go and do a final paint job when completely put back together. My goal is to minimize paint fastener damage.

Now that the final drive is back on, we can work on reinstalling the platform, seat post, wheel and wheel weight.

[tractorjunky]

The girls and I made a little more progress this weekend. We got the platform bolted back into place, installed the fender and the seat post. We just need to finish cleaning up the rim and we can get the little Cub back on all fours. But not for too long, we need to repeat the process with the left FInal Drive.

Installing Fender Bolts

Making sure the bolts are tight

Two girls proud of their work

[Dale Finch]

I'm very proud of the work your daughters have done!! Oh, and very impressed with your willingness and apparent patience, to include them! We "girls" can do just about anything if exposed to the tasks and HELPED with solutions, including making errors that we can learn from.

No one is BORN knowing how to do these things, male or female...we all rely on teachers!

[tractorjunky]

Dale, thank you for the kind reply. In our house both girls are expected to learn how to fix and maintain things. Even if they don't want to do that type of stuff when they get older, I want them to at least now what others are talking about and when they are trying to be scammed.

[tractorjunky]

Saturday morning while we waiting to see if the sky wanted to rain or not, we where able to get a little shop time in.

I have changed up my plans a little. When we first brought the Cub home, the hydraulics where not working. I never got around to figuring out why before we started working on it. Originally I was going to clean up and replace the gaskets and seals in the Left Final Drive and then start the engine to figure out the hydraulic problem. But I have decided to go for an engine start first. I suspect the hydraulics work just fine and only need some fluid. My guess is that the seal in the pump is bad and everything leaked into the engine. The engine oil level is at the full mark so I bet the hydraulics have not worked for some time. Even though I am not going to drive the tractor around, I will feel better running the engine on all 4 wheels and not jack stands.

In trying to get ready to start the engine, we first installed the wheel center back onto the rim and then took the easy route by setting the wheel on the wheel weight for installation. Since the rims need to come back off for final paint, I will figure out what to do with the rust spots on the rims then. The wheel is not on the tractor yet since I wanted to prime and paint the lug bolts first.

Happy girls for another job done

Then we moved onto installing the PTO shaft and the Right Angle Gearbox. First we finished cleaning out the differential.

My girls are not afraid to get a little dirty, and even seem to have fun doing it.

[tractorjunky]

Now that everything is clean, we installed in the Differential Cover Plate and the PTO Shaft. I took the fill plug off to help see the PTO lever engage, but really didn't need it. Once we had the PTO shaft lined up with the Input Bushing everything kind of fell into place.

Applying gasket glue to the PTO Housing

One job that my oldest has been waiting for is to reinstall the Transmission Shifter. She helped take it off and clean it up and now it is time to reinstall.

Rather serious work

We also filled the Right Angle Gearbox with gear lube (SAE 90). When I went to get the fill-to-spill plug out for the transmission, I found someone has been rather hateful with this plug. It is no longer square and almost cone shaped. Since I plan to take the Left Final off, I will better access to work on getting this plug out. Next time I get out to the shop, we still need to fill the Right Final.

Looks like the sun is starting to come out, so we have to stop working on the Cub for now and get back to painting the house. One more wall to go. We should get it done before it starts to get cold.

Another day of making progress

[tractorjunky]

The past couple of nights, we were able to finish the preparation to start the engine. We found a good battery and connected it, filled the hydraulic system with Hy-Tran and primed the oil pump. I used the squirt oil in the hole in the oil filter housing method. Trying to get the pump primed we actually drained the battery before it was primed. We probably squirted oil in the hole at least a dozen times and bumped the starter for 5 - 10 seconds each time. After the battery was recharged it only took another 2 or 3 attempts and we had a good stream of oil coming out of the hole.

Only ingredient left is gas. We installed and connected a pony gas tank that we have.

With switch on, a bump on the starter and little choke, the engine fired right up acting like it was just ran yesterday. After a few seconds to fill the oil filter housing, the oil pressure came alive.

Oil Pressure Cold

Now it is time for the reason for starting the engine in the first place, do the hydraulics work? And they do!! They seem very responsive and fast moving.

Hydraulic Lift Arms Down

Hydraulic Lift Arms Up

After a good 5 - 10 minutes of running, the oil pressure backed down some, but still looks pretty good.

Oil Pressure Warm.

I would say this was a successful day. The engine still starts and sounds good and the hydraulics work. I took a picture of the engine oil level so I can monitor if the seal on the hydraulic pump is good. If the engine starts producing more oil, I will have to replace the seal. Time will tell. This is why I wanted to test the hydraulics sooner than later so I can give the seal as much time as I can to decide to leak or not.

Baseline Oil Level

I did have one new finding as a result of running the engine. Looks like the rear main oil seal is leaking. With the little run time we put on the engine, there is a little puddle starting to form under the bellhousing. I will add that to the list of things to fix when I split the tractor to dig into the clutch problems.

[tractorjunky]

The girls and I were able to spend a little time in the shop Friday night. I was glad we were able to spend some time on it Friday as we were going to Cub-o-ree at Cub World on Saturday and wouldn't be able to work in the shop much over the weekend.

Now that the condition of the hydraulics is known and while we wait to see if the oil will leak into the engine, we started to dig into the Left Final Drive. We removed the drain pan and let the oil drain. Once the dripping mostly stopped, we were able to get the Final Drive off of the tractor along with the fender.

With the final drive sitting on the bench, we removed the various bearing covers and let the oil to continue to drain before we proceed much farther in the disassembly.

With the final drive off, I was able to get a good bite on the transmission Fill-to-spill plug with some vice-grips. With a rather hard clamp, the plug gave up and came out. I have added a new plug to the shopping list for the next time I stop at the hardware store.

Now that the Final Drive is sitting on the bench, we have a good amount of work ahead of us: Reline brake band, finish cleaning differential and transmission, new gaskets and seals in the Final Drive, clean wheel center and wheel weight.

Oh-yeah about the Cub-o-ree, talk about a real bait and switch, there where no Farmall Cubs to work on and not even one to be found anywhere (I looked). My youngest has joined Cub Scouts and there was an overnight camping event for the whole family at the Scout's park that they have affectionately named Cub World.

[Bob McCarty]

If you haven't done it before, they is a good "how to" on relining the brakes with a parts list for McMaster-Carr that sells lining by the foot.

[tractorjunky]

We didn't get too much done this weekend as we spent all day Saturday at an auction.

We did go into the shop for a little while Friday night. Looks like I have my answer about the seal on the hydraulic pump. The dipstick now reads full and there is an ever growing puddle under the bell housing.

Oil level 1 week after testing hydraulics

Newly developed oil puddle

Oil level after Testing Hydraulics

I have added replacing the hydraulic pump o-ring to the list of repairs we need to do.

Back to the auction. The main reason we went is that there was a Farmall Cub in the estate sale. When telling my wife about the sale a couple weeks ago she told me that she wanted it so she could have a small herd of cubs. I think she has been infected by the incurable antique tractor disease . At least there is no quarantine required once infected. The bidding ended in our favor and we brought home a 1948 Cub. Now each of my girls (wife and two daughters) each have their own cub. The wife's cub is what we are cleaning up and painting so it looks "shinny" as she has requested.

New addition to the herd

Serial Number 52059

The cub is a 1948 with magneto ignition. Except the Magneto must have quit working some time ago as they are using it as a distributor with an external coil. They were also starting it with a 12v battery but the generator is still in place. The ammeter was not showing any indication of charging so it may not be hooked up. They also had the head lights disconnected. What is interesting is the battery metered around 13 volts and the wires that should be hooked up to the lights metered around 8-9 volts. There is also a ballast resistor between the 12v coil and the magneto. I plan to fix the wiring and the magneto to return it to the original configuration. Over the winter I will try to collect the parts and maybe bring it to the Barnyard Bash in the spring.

There is one other major flaw. The carburetor leaks like Niagara Falls. The son of the estate sale said that the carb is warped. After doing some research in the archives on this site, I see that it should be repairable. I need to see how the week goes with work and I may try to bring the carb to the Shallow Creek Cubfest later this week to get some help with the repairs.

The oil pressure gage was not working when we brought it home, we couldn't even see the needle. As it turns out the gage was full of oil. I had a spare gage on hand, installed it to see what the condition of the pump was. Pump is pumping and rather healthy with around 20 psi.

With what little playing around we did with it, the hydraulics work, the PTO engages and works and the mower deck runs nice and smooth and quiet. Now we need to hurry up and finish the fall clean-up work so we can spend more time in the shop.

[Bob McCarty]

If the hydraulic pump is leaking, it will leak hydraulic fluid into the oil pan, not on to the floor. The level on the dipstick will go up, not down. I would bet that your rear engine seal is leaking and needs to be replaced. The tractor needs to be split for that.

[tractorjunky]

I believe you are correct. When I had the engine running last week, oil was dripping from the bell housing pretty much instantly. Looking in the clutch adjustment hole, there is plenty of oily/grime build-up and with the newly found puddle, a new seal is on the punch list. I figure the hydraulic oil is going into the engine oil pan, then heading out the leaky rear seal. I need to split the tractor anyway to dig into some clutch issues it has. Looking in the clutch adjustment hole, there is plenty of oily/grime build-up. The girls will have fun cleaning up that mess.

I do find it interesting that the dip stick reads perfectly full as the oil leaks out the rear seal. Not much margin to the rear seal if the engine is accidently is over-serviced and too much oil is put in it.

[tractorjunky]

A few nights last week and over the weekend we were able to sneak away into the shop and finish taking the left final drive apart. This one came apart with no surprises unlike the right one did.

Friday night after big sister left to spend the weekend at a friends house, my 6 year old and I managed to remove the bearing from the axle. She is really getting into this tractor stuff.

Putting puller together

Getting ready to remove the bearing

Sunday afternoon my 6 year old asked if we can go out to the shop and work on the tractor. How can you say no to a request like that? On the way out the door, she said that she wanted a ride on her tractor first then we can go into the shop. So I took the other 1950 Cub out of the tent and gave her a few laps around the yard. Once in the shop, we started in on cleaning the final drive parts.

Determined little worker at work

I don't think she has too many friends that would find enjoyment cleaning parts in a parts washer.

Results of her hard work

I think my youngest is going to be the mechanically inclined one. Since we are going to work on most everything other than the engine on this cub, I would like to find a Super C that needs an engine rebuild when my youngest is a little older so I can teach them more about the engine. Why the Super C? My grandfather farmed with one that my dad now has and I am expecting my brother will end up with it. So the next best thing is to get another tractor of the same model.

Hopefully we can sneak out a couple times this week and clean up a few more parts. My goal is to reinstall the final drive over Thanksgiving break so we can keep this project moving along.

[tractorjunky]

This weekend we where able to finish cleaning and prime some of the parts for the Right Final Drive.

We also started cleaning the grim out of the housing. We got as much as we could, but I think I will still hit it with the power washer to get some of the hard to reach areas. Then a visit to the wire brush.

A couple weeks ago, I started to take the clevis and nut off of the brake band. The nut was loose, but the clevis was not. I gave the clevis a little heat from a MAPP gas torch and it came right off. Knowing that I should let things cool completely before trying the nut, I got antsy and didn't wait long enough and well you guessed it, I broke off the end of the brake band rod.

Now what to do? I really didn't want to get a new one and the cost of used ones where not all that attractive, I thought let's give repairing the broken one a try. What's the worse that can happen? I finish destroying an already broken part and still need to buy a new one.

I found some 5/16-24 all thread online. Before I started the repair, I made some reference measurements so I know what length I need when done.

I first cut off the last remaining thread from the rod. Then I chamfered the brake rod and the all thread.

I mounted the brake band and all thread into an aluminum fixture I had from another project. This way when I weld, my parts won't stick to the fixture.

Even though I have a welder, I really don't consider myself as a welder. I get by with the little projects I do. I presume the preferred tool would probably be a TIG welder, but I only have a MIG so I connected the ground and gave it ago.

Here is what I ended up with after welding all around:

Not the prettiest weld, but hopefully good enough. As I started to grind the weld down to match the diameter of the rod, I did not see any indication of where the two part were butted together. So I think I have a pretty good joint.

Final step was to cut some threads into the weld region so it would match the original and then cut the brake rod to length.

With the nut and clevis safely returned to the brake assembly, I can continue refreshing the brake band. I have the old lining off. I need to clean the brake up, prime, paint and install the new lining.