Splitting stand, mounting stands, etc, etc.
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Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 2293
Joined: Tue Sep 02, 2008 3:46 pm
Zip Code: 54911
Tractors Owned: -
1951 F-Cub
1960 Yellow Loboy
Despeeder, FH Rototiller, / FH York Rake, FH plow, 152 Disk plow, Woods brush mower, Wagner Loader, Grader Blades, 23-A Disc Harrow. Spike tooth harrow
FORD JUBILEE with Sherman 12-speed
1953 Ford F-100 Jubilee
Cadet 108 with mower and snow thrower -Cadet 1650 with deck and thrower
Circle of Safety: Y


Postby ToddW » Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:38 pm

My front-split stand. Spent $30 on the 1000 lb trailer jack. Spent $12 combined on the 1/4" x 2" x 18" angle iron and 3/8" x 4" x12" steel plate.

I used a 3/8" drill bit to make all of the holes on this project
For the starter mount holes, the holes are 4.25" apart. I rounded off the end of the angle iron so the corner will not hit the oil filter. Keep the holes a bit to the outside of the iron as well.

I placed the trailer jack mounting plate on the 3/8" x 4" x12" steel plate to mark the holes.
Nice thing is the the 2" wide angle iron will fit nicely between these holes, which later pictures show.

Holes drilled for angle iron to bolt to the steel plate NOTE: these holes go on the other side of the angle iron that the starter holes are on.
Pic shows the faceplate to show me were to drill holes more mounting the jack to my made faceplate.

Now the all the holes are drilled, I begin bolting the splitting stand together. I used GRADE 8 bolts 3/8" x 1.25" long with lockwashers. This could have also been welded together instead of bolts, but I wanted to make this with no welds for the members who want to make one of these but do not have access to a welder.

Bolting on the jack for final step, and removing the cotter pin for the standard trailer jack swivel. I bolted the cotter pin area to lock it from moving.

Here's how it will bolt up when the starter would get removed from the tractor.
I hope my tractor will not be needing this for a long time!!

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