Waking up the ol' Cub

[Willy]

The generator linkage is all freed up now. I had go to where it just wasn't getting any easier to move, so I took the cotter pin and washer off of it's shaft where I could slide the lever to the side a bit about an eighth of an inch and get more PB Blaster and Marvel Mystery Oil down in there. That did the trick on freeing it on up. The back and forth just wasn't getting it done.

The wiring is done and tested with the exception of the headlights and I'll finish those when I put the hood and tank back on it and test them. The rear light had some issues that I took care of while waiting on the PB Blaster to do it's thing. I wasn't that fond of it's being on with the headlights all the time, so I did a little "Willy Mod". I put it on a separate switch where I could turn it on and off by itself. The trailer lights connector has power when the headlights are on. But I think the ammeter is toast. The needle doesn't budge when anything or everything is turned on.

I temporarily put the drawbar on it. The reason it's temporary is "somebody" forgot to check the final drive oil level before it was put on. And I'm going to drill the center hole out to take a 2" trailer ball while I've got it off again. And the universal mount up front is still on the tractor for now.

Once I get the hood and fuel tank back on it, I'm going to try to start it up and let it run for a minute or so to see how it runs and get the lift back into the lowered position so I can start on the touch control lift and it's leaky pump. I got the pump number this morning and and it's definitely one with an o-ring for a shaft seal. Going to try one of those x cross sectioned Quad rings. They're supposed to seal better and be better with moving parts than a standard o-ring. Hopefully, that's all the hydraulics will need. Once they're done, probably an oil change and tune up will be on the agenda.

Nothing like making a little progress every now and then.

[Jim Becker]

You can get a trailer ball that fits. For example:
https://www.etrailer.com/p-CB-20Z.html

[Willy]

Thanks! 3/4 was the smallest shaft ball I have but it wasn't a 2". My 2" is a 1" shaft.

[Jim in SC]

Should you need to rebuild the hydraulic pump (near the front of the tractor), I found that it's not a hard job, even for a DIY mechanic like me, as long as you keep the parts SUPER CLEAN. I also removed, cleaned, and painted the touch control unit and replaced a few O-rings while I was at it and refilled it with Hy-Tran fluid. Made all the difference in the world in operating the hydraulics! Oh - my tractor is a '51 model as well. Good luck, and have fun with your Cub!

[Willy]

Thanks! I'm having to wait on some parts though at the moment, so I'm messing around doing things that I can get done at the moment. Mostly cleaning and such.

[bofahs]

For gas, I use what they call around here "Marine Gas" - no ethanol. About 20 years ago, I had a problem with valves sticking in the guides - popped 'em free and started adding a splash of Marvel Mystery Oil to each tank of gas - no problems since. If it's going to sit for a while, I throw in some Sta-Bil, and I've found that using a little SeaFoam helps everything I own, from Harleys to trucks and mowers.

[Willy]

Thanks for the advice! I've still got to go to the gas station to get some non-ethanol for the Cub. Marvel Mystery OIl, I have (I used it along with the PB Blaster to free up the governor linkage). Just a splash to each tank? Should be easy enough.

Once I get it started up, I have no intention of letting it sit for more than a few days. Even if it's to just ride around the fence line. Another use for the Cub.

[Willy]

Yesterday was cleaning the air cleaner, fuel sediment bowl and the add on fuel filter. The air cleaner had over an inch of oily mud in the bottom of of the cup. I washed the mesh in the air cleaner clean with kerosine and blew it out with an air hose. I have some K&N air filter oil in the shop stash so I sprayed that kind of heavy on the mesh and let it sit for an hour or upside down. Figured it couldn't hurt. The fuel sediment bowl was similar but without the oil and it had dried to dirt. The in line fuel filter had just had a little on the element. The sediment bowl strainer has a couple of small tears so it's getting replaced. I'm thinking the air cleaner and sediment bowl hadn't been cleaned since it was last plowing fields decades ago.

I'm strongly suspecting that the so called "restoration" 15 years ago was just new rings, a valve job and repainting with new decals and I'm not sure on the valve job. When we brought it home, it had no compression that I could feel hand cranking it over, so some engine work was done. I'm finding too much stuff that should have been done during the "restoration". No idea who did it for my father in law, but I remember him saying it cost him over 3 grand to have it done.

[Gary1959]

So "Hy-Tran" can be used in both the hydraulic and the transmission of a 51 Cub, right?

[Willy]

I know the owners manual says 90 weight gear oil. Hy Tran is a lot thinner stuff. I think I'm just going to stick with the old tried and true gear oil and leave the Hy Tran to the hydraulic system.

Although, I am going to 10w30 for the motor oil.

What's a good product for flushing out the radiator and cooling system these days? I'm about 20 years out of date on turning wrenches. The coolant looks good, but it's been in there at least 15 years now.

[Don McCombs]

What's a good product for flushing out the radiator and cooling system these days?

Washing Soda. Instructions are in the 1950 Operator's Manual.

[Jim Becker]

So "Hy-Tran" can be used in both the hydraulic and the transmission of a 51 Cub, right?

Yes.

[Willy]

So "Hy-Tran" can be used in both the hydraulic and the transmission of a 51 Cub, right?

Yes.

Yes? I'd have never guessed that. I figured it the viscosity would be too thin.

[Denny Clayton]

So "Hy-Tran" can be used in both the hydraulic and the transmission of a 51 Cub, right?

Yes.

Yes? I'd have never guessed that. I figured it the viscosity would be too thin.

Can and should are two different things.

[tmays]

Yes.

Yes? I'd have never guessed that. I figured it the viscosity would be too thin.

Can and should are two different things.

As early as 1959(might have been earlier, I don’t know), operator manual reads that hytran could be used in tranny, steering housing, and belt pulley housings. They gave other choices in lube also, depending on which area and temps.