removing final drives on a 1950 cub

[kozmos]

hi everyone i'm new to this site its my first cub i'm redoing not for show but to use i;m wanting to take the final drives off to clean and paint and check brake pads also do they just pull off after you unbolt them thanks

[Urbish]

Yes. Make sure you remember to pull the two bolts on the bottom that you can't readily see. The final drives slide straight out with the input drive shafts retained with them. The input shafts should slide cleanly from the differential housing. They are heavy! I used a floor jack with a wad of rags on top to prevent damage to the oil pans in the final drives. Align the jack so you can roll it straight out and away from the tractor. There are two dowel pins that may hang up a little bit. Take your time and use plenty of penetrating oil if they are stubborn.

[Dale Finch]

If you look through the HOW TO section, there are a couple posts discussing the final removal/rebuild procedure along with some cautions. Here is one:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436
Please be sure you block the front between the axle and the steering "bolster", as the tractor has a tendency to roll if put off balance during a final removal. Suggest the brakes are checked and seals replaced "while you have them off"!

Good luck, and ask questions if you get stumped.

[DRaymond]

Dale, yours was the best presentation I have seen to date. I am in the process of reconditioning my final drive units and you all of the areas and products I would need to do the job. OUTSTANDING!!!

This site is tops.

[concretetogo]

Be careful ! The cub is hard to setup on jackstands because of the off center drive line and tends to
tip to the left side. only remove one wheel tire,and final at a time
Just pulled both tires to day and tractor tipped to left . Could have fallen of jack

[Eugene]

only remove one wheel tire,and final at a time. Just pulled both tires to day and tractor tipped to left.

Stack a couple of the sand bags used for additional vehicle winter weight on the axle side not being worked on.

[Sailor]

It may be overkill but I would suggest using a set of the "splitting" stands. I'm going to keep mine on during this re-build, until I have all four wheels on the ground.

[Dale Finch]

It may be overkill but I would suggest using a set of the "splitting" stands. I'm going to keep mine on during this re-build, until I have all four wheels on the ground.

Good suggestion, but be advised...the tractor can still surprise you! Although this is a SA, it has the same general design and inherent dangers. Might have been better to have 2 jackstands or the one on the other side, but not sure. Fortunately, no damage was done, and I even let it stay there so I could work on replacing seals while the differential was easier to access!!!

[Barnyard]

Surprised nobody suggested wedges...


They help prevent this...

[Dale Finch]

Please be sure you block the front between the axle and the steering "bolster"

Guess I wasn't totally clear, but Barnyard is right...

[Barnyard]

Please be sure you block the front between the axle and the steering "bolster"

Guess I wasn't totally clear, but Barnyard is right...

Sorry Dale, I missed that in your first post and I even read it twice.

[Dale Finch]

It's definitely worth repeating!! WEDGES EACH SIDE BETWEEN THE FRONT AXLE AND THE BOLSTER!

[Urbish]

In case you want to reline your brakes, here's an excellent how-to. I bought material, rivets, and the riveting tool from McMaster-Carr and mine turned out great.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... 54&t=66324

[billsfarmallcub]

I have a question concerning the drain holes under the brake shoe in the case. Do these holes stay open? I discovered a wooden plug in these holes billsfarmallcub

[Urbish]

Are you talking about this hole? I think it is there to allow water and dirt a place to exit the final drive housing. Someone probably plugged it because gear oil was dripping from it which would do nothing to solve the underlying problem.