Farmall Cub - sticky brake pedal

[cdahl383]

Working on the brakes a little today and just wanted to figure out a plan of attack on what to address.

One brake is shot, it doesn't grab at all, will need to be replaced. Already have the parts for that and was planning to come down to the Barnyard Bash in Ohio in a few weeks and bring my tractor. Hoping to get a little help/pointers from some of you guys to replace the brake on that side.

The other side is very sticky. It's hard to move the pedal. I thought at first it was the brake itself. But today I disconnected the brake band rod from the pedal assembly and it's the pedal assembly itself. It's kind of hard to move back and forth. The clutch pedal moves nicely and the other brake moves nicely. I sprayed the big rod under the floorpan with PB Blaster and WD-40 and worked it back and forth. It seems to have improved a little bit, but it's still not right.

Is there another way to work that free? Or do I just need to keep spraying it with PB Blaster each day and keep on working it? I don't see any grease fittings under there. Doesn't look like it would come out very easily either. Just wanted to see if I was on the right track or if I'm missing something.

Here's a video I made below that shows what I'm talking about...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWCxRKxpGY4

[tst]

the shaft is rusted up through the torque tube, take the brake rod off the linkage and return spring for the pedal, now you can rotate the shaft a lot back and forth while hitting it with the WD 40until it loosens up the newer cubs have a grease fitting to lube the shaft, that can be added easily to yours if you do not have one

[cdahl383]

the shaft is rusted up through the torque tube, take the brake rod off the linkage and return spring for the pedal, now you can rotate the shaft a lot back and forth while hitting it with the WD 40until it loosens up the newer cubs have a grease fitting to lube the shaft, that can be added easily to yours if you do not have one

That’s what I was doing earlier. The pedal goes way down with nothing hooked to it. Been spraying PB Blaster and WD40 into the spots where i can reach.

It seems to be getting better. I’ll keep spraying it multiple times each day. Hopefully it’ll free up a little more. Doesn’t need to be perfect, just not completely sticky.

[Don McCombs]

Forget the WD-40. Keep working it with the PB Blaster. When you get it where you want it, spray wth some aerosol white grease.

[NJ Farmer]

I personally like Kroil in the orange can. Slightly more expensive but it’s what we use at the airport on aircraft and it works great on rusted bolts and screws just allow it to seep into the threads.

NJ Farmer

[Don McCombs]

I personally like Kroil in the orange can. Slightly more expensive but it’s what we use at the airport on aircraft and it works great on rusted bolts and screws just allow it to seep into the threads.

NJ Farmer

Smells better than PB Blaster, too.

[Kycubbie]

You could also try a home brew of acetone and atf fluid mixed at 50/50. Search Google for the test results.

[Gary Dotson]

Are your pedal return springs, under the floor pan, present? If they are missing or weak, you’ll need to get new ones installed, after you get the pedal free’d up.

[inairam]

I personally like ATF and acetone.

You can remove the paint around the shaft near the torque tube and try to work in and out like you are trying to remove it from the torque tube or install it. A really little bit in and out after it was lubed helped me.

[cdahl383]

Two return springs are busted. I have new ones that I’ll install soon.

I’ll just keep hitting it with PB Blaster then since that’s what I have on hand. Thanks for the advice!