PTO and hydronic problems

[Luke Thomasson]

When I engage the people and the Woods mower is down, it almost kills the engine. I have to re engage the clutch to keep it from happening! Likewise, my hydraulic lift will not stay up or set in place after I lock it in.
I am new at this so I need all the help I can get!

[Glen]

Hi,
Welcome to the website.

Running a rotary mower is work for the Cub engine, the engine has to be in good condition to run one.

If the Cub doesn't have as much power as it should, it may need a complete tune up.
Cubs need tune ups, like cars years ago did, new ignition points, condenser, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs.
They need the ignition timing checked, and set if it is wrong. The timing being wrong can make it have less power than it should.

You didn't say anything about the Cub, if you have had it for years, or just bought it.
You didn't say what year the Cub is.

It should have a compression test, so you know if the engine is ok, or wornout.
If it is wornout, it could have less power than it should.

The Touch Control needs fluid in it so it will work, if it is low on fluid it won't work, or work right.
It sounds like it may be low on fluid.
I would check it's fluid level and see if it needs fluid.

Below is a post I made about checking and changing the Touch Control fluid.
The operator's manual pages in it show where the plugs are, and how to fill it, and if you change the fluid, how to remove the air from the system.
My opinion is it would be good to change the fluid, if it has been running with low fluid, the fluid can have small air bubbles mixed in with it. That can make the system work not well.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

You didn't say the year of the Cub or I could have posted an operator's manual for it.
There are several years of operator's manuals at the top of the page at Cub Info, then go to Rudi's Manuals.

The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1 of most of them.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. There is a lube section in them.

It shows the electrical system that they originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
They have said on here that IH didn't make a new manual every year.

The Touch Control uses Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.
The manual tells how to check and change the fluid, and remove the air from the system.
Check the fluid with the arms in the rear, or down position, the manual says.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There is a search at the top of the page, to the right of the Farmall Cub, you can search there for info in posts that have been made.

[inairam]

Which woods mower do you have? single spindle ( woods 42) or 3 spindles (woods 59) The three spindles put more load on the cub, especially in high grass.

The deck also should not be on the ground. It should hange off of the lift and not run on the side runners of the mower.

There also may be issues with your TC.

[Waif]

Hard tellin from here.

I wind up the Woods 42 with the deck raised and r.p.m. bumped up well beyond an idle.
Best to lower it on to a clear patch to get the clutch out and get rolling before running it over resistance / high grass or brush (with my brushhog blades anyways). Your deck does not have to ride level in tall stuff. Think of how grass can be discharged with deck angled up in front. Or in back. And how much the blade(s) have to whack it while it is under the deck.

Your hydraulics are another matter. A jumpy deck can be from low hydraulic fluid . Or air in the system. IF there's no worn out components in your block.

Keep an eye on your crankcase engine oil level. If you're gaining fluid , your hydraulic pump is leaking into the engine crankcase.

You should have two adjustable "stops" on the quadrant your hydraulic lever rides on. Set one for deck lowest setting. That will help if your lever is moving on it's own accord. But won't cure hydraulic components that need repaired or overcome low fluid level or air in system..

[Luke Thomasson]

Thanks so much, I will and have some work in front of me of PMCS (Preventative Maintenance).