Farmall Cub

I had Wednesday off and the day was perfect for doing some much-needed work on the '55 Cub. I've been finding larger and larger puddles of fluid under the tractor over the years, and have needed to top off the hydraulic fluid every time I plow snow or go till some earth.

I started at 9:15am expecting an 8 hour project, and finished around 5pm. This included a detour to the store after lunch to replace a destroyed spring which was seizing the innermost piston of the check valve.

Since the hood and gas tank were off, I took the opportunity to snug a few extra bolts and tighten up the belts, which were extremely loose.

Of course, after I get it all back together and filled up, it fired right away, faster than it has ever started (maybe due to the tighter belts) but now there was another problem!

At low idle I hear bubbling from the oil dipstick tube.
Hooray! My hydraulic pump is shot and pumping fluid into the oil pan.

Fortunately I had bought the rebuild kit for the pump and an extra gallon of hy-tran, but it never ends! This Wednesday's project shall be the pump, and if time permits, the left brake drum which just rattles around on the adjusting rod.

I have found when the brake drum is loose much of the time it ruins the axle also

tst wrote:I have found when the brake drum is loose much of the time it ruins the axle also

Awesome, I can hardly wait for that bonus!

I have a '49 Cub I have been trying to restore as near new as I can manage. Goodness, the project just continues to expand larger and larger. Oh well, it is fun work.

The one part I'm dreading is rebuilding the TC. I have thought I might just clean and paint it up nicely, then fill it up and try it. But that small voice is whispering... "You know it's not going to work right!"

JustJim wrote:I have a '49 Cub I have been trying to restore as near new as I can manage. Goodness, the project just continues to expand larger and larger. Oh well, it is fun work.

The one part I'm dreading is rebuilding the TC. I have thought I might just clean and paint it up nicely, then fill it up and try it. But that small voice is whispering... "You know it's not going to work right!"

The name of that small voice is, "Been There Done That".

Bring that touch control up to the Barnyard Bash with the correct kit (based on block part number), and we'll help you get it done!! A lot more fun with a bit of guidance!
http://www.barnyardbash.com/

4thGen wrote:the left brake drum which just rattles around on the adjusting rod.

Hi,
The brake drum is mounted on a shaft.
I don't know what you are saying, maybe the brake drum has come loose from the shaft.

TM Tractor has a new shaft for the left side, that the brake drum goes on, below is the listing, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/662fp.htm

It's probably easier to get a new ball bearing, that goes at the outboard end of the shaft, than remove the old bearing from the old shaft.
The bearing should have the snap ring on the OD.

If the brake drum has been turning on the shaft, it may have worn out the center of the drum.
The drum should be a snug fit on the shaft, and slide on smoothly.
The drum goes on until it hits the shoulder on the shaft.
Below is a new brake drum.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/104fp.htm

Below is the oil seal that goes in the final drive outboard of the brake drum.
There is a pic there showing many parts of the Cub.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm

Below is the key for the brake drum and shaft.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/3954fp.htm

Below is the lock bolt. Tighten it tight, and then tighten the lock nut.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/4721fp.htm

Below is the oil seal for the transmission, at the inner end of the shaft.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm

Hi,
JustJim, sometimes the Touch Control works well when fluid is put in it, if the fluid was low.
The unit has to have fluid to work, if the fluid is too low, it won't work.
If you just bought the Cub, someone could have left it low, or the pump could be leaking the fluid into the engine oil pan.

I would put in fluid if it is low, and see if it works.
The Cub operator's manual says don't run the engine if the fluid is low. The pump has to have fluid for lubrication, it can damage the pump to run the engine with low Touch Control fluid.

Below is a post I made about checking and changing the Touch Control fluid, if you need it.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

Glen wrote:

4thGen wrote:the left brake drum which just rattles around on the adjusting rod.

Hi,
The brake drum is mounted on a shaft.
I don't know what you are saying, maybe the brake drum has come loose from the shaft.

TM Tractor has a new shaft for the left side, that the brake drum goes on, below is the listing, you can look at the pics.

Thanks!

To be more correct it's actually the brake band/shoe which is loose from the shaft/pin below and in front of the drum (broken or otherwise), and it is flapping around on the brake adjusting rod and not engaging no matter how tight I make it. I was proactive and grabbed new gaskets and oil seals for the final when I ordered the TC & pump rebuild kits. Now I have to open it up and see what else I need to buy. Looking in through the hole the rod passes through doesn't give much view for detail.

Hi,
I see. Here is more info, if you need it.

A 1955 Cub originally has the newer style of brakes.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the brake linkage for the left side.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gbr/lhact_001.htm

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the brake band assembled on a final drive.
The 2nd pic is showing putting the final drive on, and starting the brake pin into the holes.
It is the right side in the pic.
The long part of the spacer on the pin faces in towards the Cub, on both sides.

Be sure both ends of the brake pin go in the holes for them as you put the final drive on, it can break the casting if the pin is not in the holes, and you tighten the bolts holding the final drive on.
There are 6 bolts in a circle that hold the final drive on the Cub.

There are dowel pins at the top and bottom also, the final drive may fit tight on the pins, it should be snug on the pins. If any of the pins are gone, it should be replaced, TM Tractor has new dowel pins.
Good luck.

Thanks all - appreciate the thoughts on my TC. It had very little oil in it when I drained it, which I suspect is not a good sign. The tractor had not been run in a decade or more, and while the entire tractor was a morass of sand, bug nests and Georgia clay, the TC was definitely the filthiest area. I presume it had been leaking.

I think the current plan is to give it a good external cleaning, then put it in place and give it a brief test. We’ll see what happens!

Glen wrote:Hi,
I see. Here is more info, if you need it.

A 1955 Cub originally has the newer style of brakes.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the brake linkage for the left side.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gbr/lhact_001.htm

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the brake band assembled on a final drive.
The 2nd pic is showing putting the final drive on, and starting the brake pin into the holes.
It is the right side in the pic.
The long part of the spacer on the pin faces in towards the Cub, on both sides.

Be sure both ends of the brake pin go in the holes for them as you put the final drive on, it can break the casting if the pin is not in the holes, and you tighten the bolts holding the final drive on.
There are 6 bolts in a circle that hold the final drive on the Cub.

There are dowel pins at the top and bottom also, the final drive may fit tight on the pins, it should be snug on the pins. If any of the pins are gone, it should be replaced, TM Tractor has new dowel pins.
Good luck.

Yep, that's exactly what I've got, with a broken band. The main pivot pin (brake pin) is also broken. Since I need to replace the brake on the left side I may as well get one for the other side as well! Will also replace the left oil seal on the shaft since it is right there.

Thanks!