1953 Govener Sprint

[AndrewSpencer]

Howdy all!

I am knee deep in repairing my Cub and have run into a bit of a problem with the governor. (never mind which spelling is correct).

I made a video and youtube has deleted my account so with no images the problem:

Full throttle - maximum forward movement - of the hand throttle is 2 clicks (notches) from fill forward.
Idle - maximum rearward movement - 3 clicks from full rear.

Range of motion of the governor seems ok but I would like the throttle to actually throttle. As best as I can figure the spring is wrong. Wrong in the sense that the engineer who originally designed the system had a different spring specified. Only shred of proof is the diagram in the repair manual has a spring with 6 turns instead of the 8 turns that mine and all of the ones on the internet have.

All that to say the chemo and radiation has probably messed with my mind so:
Does anyone else have this problem? Have you fixed it? With the whole front end of the tractor off what else can I do for diagnosis?

Hope you all have an amazing rest of your Tuesday!

Andrew

[Don McCombs]

You need to make sure that ALL of the throttle/governor linkage is free and well lubricated.

[Magnum]

I also have a cub with the exact same problem. It does appear to me that all is free to move about as it should but after a closer look I came to the same conclusion, that spring outside of the governor appears to be lazy . I have 2 other cubs that function flawlessly and will compare the spring tension on them .

[SamsFarm]

If I am following you correctly, then you probably need to replace the spring on that arm under the generator that has the linkage going to your hand lever.

[inairam]

You adjust the linkage to give you the range of the RPMs from idle to max rpm. You do not adjust the linkage just so it matches the notches on the throttle.

The spring is a good thing to replace as part of getting a cub. The spring is available from the site sponsors. Most important is the entire linkage from the throttle to the carb is free and smoothly operating and properly adjusted per the manual. The lever the spring is attached to needs to be free on the pin. It is a tight tolerance and it does not take much for it to bind.

Once the linkage is free and smooth and adjusted per the manual you can fine turn it by adjusting the carb and very last if needed adjust the governor setting

[tst]

There are 2 different governor arms, early cubs had a longer arm and used more of the notches, the later one is shorter and will leave a couple notches at each end unused, this is normal

[AndrewSpencer]

Thanks for all the responses.
With the encouragement of some friends I am now using rumble for uploading videos.
So the video I wanted to show you all:

https://rumble.com/vxki5p-farmall-goven ... ssues.html

If you notice the front page screen has the illustration from the repair manual showing a spring that is stretched much more and only has 6 windings as compared to the 8 that our standard springs have.

tst, do you know the year split for the long and short arms?

Does the video come through for you all? does that give you a better indication of what is going on? Is there something else I am missing all together?

Hope you all have an amazing day!

Andrew

[Don McCombs]

I wouldn’t put too much stock in the number of coils on the spring in the drawing.

[Glen]

Hi,
There are usually 1 or 2 notches at each end of the throttle sector that are unused, the throttle lever won't move into them.
The lever should speed up the engine gradually, so there is a choice of working speeds.
It shouldn't go from slow speed to full speed in 1 or 2 notches. That is 1 thing that they can do when the governor linkage ahead of the carburetor needs adjusting.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new governor spring. It says it is a Case IH spring.
You can count the number of coils it has.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gv/357fp.htm

TM Tractor is at the bottom of the page.

Below are pics from TM Tractor of the 2 different length arms.
The 1st pic is the long arm.
The 2nd pic is the short arm.

Work oil into the pivot where the cotter key is. They commonly get tight there from no oil.
The pivot is about 1 inch wide, so it may take time to work oil into it.

[AndrewSpencer]

Glen,
Thanks again for the response. Yes that is the standard spring and it has 8 turns.

So now I am wondering if I should get a longer arm governor part or take the time and engineer a better spring...

Don,
You are completely correct. It is a very pretty drawing though!

Thinking about my conundrum a different way, if I come up with a better spring do we suspect there will be some folks who will benefit from it, or will they find this post and hunt down a long arm governor?

[inairam]

I think engineering a spring is not a good use of your time. The replacement springs are available and in my experience do not fail and work well. The governor is a very reliable and low maintenance system on the cub. The problem areas are usually in the linkages and the lever binding

The range also could be limited or hung up if the rod from the throttle to the governor is on backward. It goes on both ways but only one way is correct and there is a difference in how the throttle feels/ moves. Did you split the tractor recently?

If it were me I would spend time making sure the entire system is free and lubed, adjusted per the manual, that the carb throttle screw is not limiting range or a long cotter pin is not hanging up the system before I replaced anything. All things I have found that were "governor problems".

The screw on the top of the governor ( see pics above) limits range but it would be best to use a tach of some sort before adjustment to establish as the baseline before any adjustment. This would be the last step after I did everything else and it did not work.

[tst]

the short arm was the replacement for the long arm

[Glen]

Hi,
The short arm is newer than the long arm.

Below is a post from lately showing why the shorter arm is needed, it is used with the newer, larger generator drive pulley on the fan hub, which came out in the early 1950's, at engine serial number 165153. It shows the 2 different pulleys in the post.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=112634

The engine serial number is stamped on the left side of the engine.
Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual showing where the engine serial number should be.
You might have to clean the area, and use a light to see it.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-02.jpg

You could check the governor linkage in the pic below for wear.
They sort of commonly wear and get loose where the rod fits into the cast part, the keyway wears, and they are loose turning forward and back.
The key can wear, and need replacing too.
To check it, hold the cast piece from turning, and turn the rod.
Wear there makes the governor work slower than when there is no wear.
To remove the rod, remove the 2 bolts holding the support onto the engine, where the end of the rod is, and it pulls out of the cast piece.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1955 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1955 and 1953 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
They have said on here that IH didn't make a new manual every year.

The Touch Control fluid mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

The manual tells all the oils to use in the Cub, on page 17.
Nowadays you can use 80W-90 gear oil in the transmission, and final drives.
The fan hub uses light motor oil.
The Lubrication Guide pic is on page 18.

There are 2 pages gone in the lube section, pages 19 and 20.
Below are pages from the manual made after this one with the missing info.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2026.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2027.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2029.jpg

[Glen]

Hi,
I sent you a PM, you get to them at the top of the page.