1952 Cub arrives in new home.

[Dale Finch]

[Glen]

I was measuring the tractor to build the splitting stands and pushed on the front axle. The Axle moved forward! Turns out the bolts holding the lower steering housing were loose! Two I could tighten with my fingers and all but one of the others took 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to tighten.

Hi,
There are 5 bolts in a circle that hold the lower steering gear housing to the upper housing.
They can work loose from use.
They need checking and tightening occasionally.
Use a light under the front of the Cub to see them.

On yours, I would remove 1 bolt at a time, and check to see if the threads are worn from being used loose. Some people on here have had the threads in the housing wear, and needed to repair the threads, or replace the upper housing.
Have only 1 bolt out of the housing at a time to check the threads.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing the bottom of the lower steering gear housing. It shows the 5 bolt holes in a circle, and the oil seal is in the shiny area.

[Bob McCarty]

Wow, I would never have imagined that a tractor with that much ice around the final would roll!!

[Barnyard]

Wow, I would never have imagined that a tractor with that much ice around the final would roll!!

I was thinking the same thing.

[Workinprogress]

When I picked up the tractor it was above freezing. So that day driving on and off the trailer wasn’t a problem. But my first test drive at the shop before making a deal was below freezing. That day was 8 degrees with below zero the night before. So it had to be frozen. I am clueless how it actually moved that day!

In my unheated garage the tractor would not roll an 1/2 inch with me pushing it.

[Clemsonfor]

I also noticed the tractor wouldn't really roll. So I decided to check the fluid in the final drive. Removing the fill plug saw some ice! Not believing my eye and thinking I might be wrong I pulled the final drive pan.

I will let the picture show what I found!

7CDA66E3-FB9C-4D26-904C-0C27B0C9965D.jpeg

Yes the pan is not on the tractor! Water up to the fill plug! I have only seen a couple table spoons of oil so far.

There I fixed it for you!!

Yikes that's a lot of water!!!

[69ranger]

That a lot of water. I found a lot of water in the trans of the one that I just bought. I have cleaned it out, and replaced the oil with new, but have not got the finals yet, but I will soon.

Regarding your steering box.. Many of the cubs, that I have been around, have sat out side. Water runs down the steering shaft, and enters the steering box. I would drop the front end out, and remove the lower half of the housing that you just tightened up, and then remove the two bolts from the steering shaft, and remove that.
This will let you see what the inside of that housing looks like. Look over the steering shaft bushing and the lower bushing, and maybe replace the two seals at the same time.
Take some time, and clean all the old oil and water out. I think you will find that to have water in side as well.

Keep us posted on your project..

[Gary Dotson]

Did that tractor have a sickle bar mower? A cycle mower will put a lot of abuse into those steering housing bolts, sometimes causing them to loosen and shear off. If memory serves me correctly, there are supposed to be 2 alignment dowels, in addition to the 5 bolts. They really need to be there.

[Workinprogress]

Slowly making progress.

Went through my metal pile and picked some materials out and a old trailer tongue jack.

Some cutting, drilling, grinding and welding!

Front splitting stand done!

Stand easily picks up front of the tractor. No more effort than the trailer tongue jack on my boat!

Materials and design together for rear splitting stand. Hopefully will be splitting this weekend.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info. I would read the steering, and splitting sections.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

I guess you have made a splitting stand, it looks good. The wheel is handy.
Below is a post from the How To Forum, showing making splitting stands, if you want to see it.

viewtopic.php?f=144&t=60737

The Cub parts manual shows there is 1 dowel where the steering gear upper and lower halves join.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the steering gear.
The dowel is shown at number 21, in the description it says there is 1.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-02.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-03.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-04.jpg

Before splitting a Cub, you should put wood wedges in at the front axle pivot.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over when splitting them, or removing heavy parts of them from the rear, without wedging the front axle pivot.
Below is a pic of the wedges, you will need to make them.
Hammer them in tight, and be sure they aren't hitting at the small end.
They should be tight on the top and bottom sides.
They don't have to be cut at so much of an angle.
Check them some during the work to be sure they don't come loose.

[Clemsonfor]

Hi,
Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info. I would read the steering, and splitting sections.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

I guess you have made a splitting stand, but below is a post from the How To Forum, showing making splitting stands, if you want to see it. The one with the wheel looks handy.

viewtopic.php?f=144&t=60737

The Cub parts manual shows there is 1 dowel where the steering gear upper and lower halves join.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the steering gear.
The dowel is shown at number 21, in the description it says there is 1.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-02.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-03.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-04.jpg

Before splitting a Cub, you should put wood wedges in at the front axle pivot.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over when splitting them, or removing heavy parts of them from the rear, without wedging the front axle pivot.
Below is a pic of the wedges, you will need to make them.
Hammer them in tight, and be sure they aren't hitting at the small end.
They should be tight on the top and bottom sides.
They don't have to be cut at so much of an angle.
Check them some during the work to be sure they don't come loose.

His stand has a wheel?

[Glen]

Hi,
I don't understand what you meant.

The stand Workinprogress made has a wheel in his pics.

Bill's How To post that I put the link to above, has a stand with a wheel in his 1st, 5th, and 8th pics.

Maybe you need to look at it with a computer that has a screen bigger than a phone, I don't know.

[Workinprogress]

Thanks Glen!

I have been reviewing the service manual and online posting & videos on splitting.

Safety is always a concern for me so I don’t take these processes lightly.

[Workinprogress]

Rear stand done!

Area cleanup later today and then start the prep for splitting.

[Dale Finch]

Can you still access the engine-to-clutch housing bolts to remove them?!