1952 Cub arrives in new home.

[Workinprogress]

Moved onto floor pan. I noticed the right brake pedal bracket was twisted and was bolted on instead of spot welded.

After cutting the bolts and adjusting the bracket with a 3lbs hammer and some square stock I was able to straighten the bracket.

Now with the bracket straightened none of the bolt holes line up.

So my question. How often do these brake brackets get bent? I can weld it onto the floor pan or I can fill some holes and drill and bolt the bracket on.

Just trying to plan ahead as unbolting is much easier than cutting welds if it needs to be removed.

[k hutchins]

I've had my Cub for over 60 yrs and always run it with the brakes "split". I've snapped a brake rod before but never bent the bracket. I think you would be ok welding.

[Workinprogress]

Lots of parts cleaned, wire brushed, primed and painted. Started to reassemble final drives.

Wanted to get tires ready so I removed the old tires and cleaned rims up. Wire brushed and sand blasted. Coat of hammerite silver drying right now. Looking pretty good. Hopefully I will get the new shoes on sometime next week.

[Stanton]

Rims are looking good!

[Smokeycub]

I’m enjoying the read. You’ve gone to a lot of trouble to get that Cub repaired, not many would get into it to the extent you have. Kudos for that. You should end up with a great little tractor. Keep up the good work and best of luck on your project.

[Workinprogress]

One final drive back together. New seals, gaskets and lower two bearings and races. Working on the other. With my current shims I either comes out a little tight or a little loose. Will double check measurements on shims. That one also has new bearings and races in the lower end. So I am thinking a little tight might not be bad. Any thoughts?

Cleaned up mounting bolts for rear weights and gave them a little paint.

[Workinprogress]

Final drives and rear cover installed! After multiple tries to get the bearing pressure right on one side things came together. TC almost back together. Install leather boots and the lift arms today. Have to install the control arms but the paint was too soft today.

Work and parts:
All new gaskets and seals on the final drives.
Both Lower bearings and races on both finals drives.
New lower axle nut for right side (was missing).
One new brake drum.
New brakes pads/shoes on both sides
All but one seal/gasket replaced on the transmission.
Rebuilt TC - orings, gasket. Screen.

New brakes are pretty tight! I can turn one side with some effort but the other side won’t move. A few minutes of driving should clean that up.

Will fill up the finals and the transmission tomorrow with 90wgt.

[Workinprogress]

Hydraulic pump seals rebuilt. Tires mounted and installed. Replaced valve cover gasket and bolt seals. Few drops of oil in generator and magneto, oil in fan. Fenders installed. Floor pan dropped in place but not installed.

[BullDAWG]

Nice work. Can't wait to see her all finished

[Workinprogress]

Pulled the tractor out of the garage to turn it around for front end work. Seals for steering box should be here soon. Also ordered a replacement steering wheel from TM. Took a quick photo while it was outside. Still more work but things coming together.

The seat pan is starting to crack around the mounting bracket. Was thinking I could weld some material underneath to support it better. Anyone done a repair like that or should I start looking for a replacement seat?

[Workinprogress]

More progress over the weekend.

Completed a throttle base repair.

Repaired the dash/hood support base which was cracked. Welded up and made support plate/washer for the base.

Before

After

While removing everything from the dash I noticed how bad the wiring was. Friday morning I ordered a replacement harness from Brillman. Was shipped out Friday afternoon and I received it on Monday the 4th! Have to say very impressed with their quality. Hopefully wire harness will be good for another 70 years!

[Workinprogress]

I also completed some other items:

- Installed left brake pedal.
- connected brake rods to brake pedals
- new pedal return springs on brake and clutch pedals
- adjusted clutch pedal free travel.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good you are making progress with the Cub.

The notches on the throttle sector need to all be more like the 2 notches at the rear of the sector, rear when it is on the Cub, where the lever is at low idle speed.
The 2 notches there are probably unused.

The notches at the high speed area of the sector look worn.
The governor spring pulls back lots on the lever there, the farther ahead the lever is pushed, the more the spring pulls it back.
The lever could slip back unless the notches are good.

I would file the notches to improve them.
A small 3 cornered file works good to file and shape the notches.
I would buy one if you don't have one.

Also, the throttle lever where it meets the sector can wear, that can make it slip back too.
They can be built up with weld and filed the right shape again.

Below are pics.
The 1st pic is a new sector showing the notches.
The 2nd and 3rd pics, from TM Tractor, show the place on the lever where it meets the sector, and the original shape it is.

[Workinprogress]

Thanks Glen,

The notches are actually all new and cut with a triangular file. What you are seeing in my photo is an focus issue and some resolution lost when I resized it. I will say my new notches aren’t perfectly spaced. As a couple teeth are a hair wider than others. I also welded up the throttle level both at the bottom and where it meets the sector. Everything fits well and has good contact into the notches.

I pulled the steering shaft, front axle and steering box tonight. Lots to degrease and clean up. Well as expected the large gasket on the steering box is in pieces. It seems with the loose bolts and alignment pin not in place allowed the steering box move around enough to wear through the gasket. All the bolts seem good and no excessive wear can be seen. I will know more once the thing is degreased.

[Potato Wilson]

That Cub is gonna be SWEET!