Farmall Cub

I have had such poor luck with aftermarket sediment bowls that I decided to buy an original one off Ebay just to clean up and have around for future use. I already had a thread on this topic with another original sediment bowl. In that case, the outer threads were too worn down to engage with the gas line fitting. Bob McCarty recommended an Edelman 168540 fitting and JB Weld and that worked great.

On this sediment bowl, I once again have a problem with the outlet threads. The odd thing is, the outside 2 1/2 threads are in great shape but not at 90° so my fitting loosely threaded in is going in at a angle. But, after the first 2 1/2 threads the internal threads look to be at 90° to the outside surface.

The hole is not elongated or distorted as if someone used force on the fitting to remove the sediment bowl housing. It seems to make sense that someone ran a tap in at an angle cutting new threads but there is no sign of cross threading.

I don’t do helicoils. I realize that is probably the best way to fix it. I think I’ll buy the same Edelman fitting and repeat what I did before but I’m not sure, based on the very good and deep, but askew, outer threads it’ll engage the internal threads and straighten out. Probably my best approach, after I get the Edelman fitting, is to carefully take the peaks off the outer threads so it’ll engage the inner threads and secure it with JB Weld.

I’m just curious if anyone has seen this on a sediment bowl. The threads from top to bottom are in great shape with no sign or cross threading or distortion. It’s like It doesn’t appear to be cross threaded but the angle they were cut changes half way down. I don’t know how you’d create this if you tried.

It’s hard to get a good picture but here’s the best I can do.

If you have or can borrow a tapered 1/2-20 tap, you might be able to chase it to where the fitting will screw in straight. If I'm looking at your picture correctly, it does look like the threads change direction/overlap between the 3rd and 4th down. If you chase it, you could also add a couple wraps of teflon tape to help with the seal. The Edelmann fitting is 1/4" pipe thread and might be difficult to thread in straight aside from stripping out what is left there now.

Bob McCarty wrote:If you have or can borrow a tapered 1/2-20 tap, you might be able to chase it to where the fitting will screw in straight. If I'm looking at your picture correctly, it does look like the threads change direction/overlap between the 3rd and 4th down. If you chase it, you could also add a couple wraps of teflon tape to help with the seal. The Edelmann fitting is 1/4" pipe thread and might be difficult to thread in straight aside from stripping out what is left there now.

Thanks Bob. That’s exactly what happens with the threads so I’m glad you can see it in my picture. It sure would be easier to chase if the the inner threads were messed up and the outer threads were straight. I’m concerned that the tap is gonna slip right into the existing threads. I’m wondering if filling the outer angled threads with JB Weld would maybe create enough resistance for the tap to track straight? My other option is to send it back to the EBay seller before I do anything and look for a better sediment bowl. I wasn’t expecting a brand new old part but it could end up useless real fast. I was expecting worn threads but not this.

If you have a drill press, you could chuck the tap into it. Or have a buddy help you keep it vertical while you cut new threads. Might be harder, but doable. If you know a machinist, it would be a 5 minute job.

lyle11 wrote: My other option is to send it back to the EBay seller before I do anything and look for a better sediment bowl.

I think this may be your best bet. You don’t want to end up with something that you can neither use nor return.

I emailed the EBay seller and, rather than return it, she said she’ll refund my money. The issue with the threads is obvious so I don’t think it’s an item anyone would keep once they received it. I’ll probably order the Edelman fitting and use JB Weld to lock it in place like before, based on Bob’s previous recommendation. The other one I repaired using this method had pretty much no holding ability on the very worn two outer threads so with JB Weld and 2-3 good internal threads it’s worth a try and the cost of the fitting to try to recut the outside threads straight.