Engine Work - Update

[Clemsonfor]

Wow, good and thorough work! Impressive template set. The cork gasket I had must of been junk cause it didn't stay together well while I cut on it.

[Stanton]

The paint on the manifold has really held up well over the years, but was starting to show some age. It's Dupli-Color Cast Iron Coat, high temp paint.

Wire wheel it down.

Done with stripping.

I noticed the space in between the (2) manifold gaskets was deteriorating, as well as a couple places on the very ends; pitting and uneven. Bought some JB Weld HighHeat epoxy and filled in the low spots. Then, after waiting 24 hours for it to cure (just like the instructions suggest ) I used an ol' wood plane with some adhesive backed sandpaper on the bottom to smooth/sand it down flat. Worked really well.

After sanding, it was time for some Dupli-Color high temp primer, followed by the paint I mentioned above.

The manifold nuts that go on the studs were painted red before. The problem is that whenever painted nuts are installed, the paint always chips and then you have to go back and touch up the paint. Kind of a pain in the neck. So I decided to oil quench the (4) manifold nuts. Heated them up with a propane torch, then dropped them into a cup of used motor oil; little heat, lotta smoke, result: blackened nuts.

Manifold installed.

Blackened nuts almost disappear.

[Stanton]

Time to get the magneto back on. It was working fine, but have decided to go through it just to clean it up and give any maintenance that needs to be done. As always, I'm describing what I do, not telling you how to do it.

Start with cleaning up the outside.

Pop the distributor cover and clean out the inside. This one was really clean. Touched up the exposed brass parts with some very fine sandpaper (320 grit) and blew it out.

Removed distributor rotor to see it needs to have some more grease added.

Both screw heads have been boogered up over time, so will need to fix those on reassembly.

Hard to see, but the points have a burnt spot on each of them that will need some filing.

You don't have to totally remove the nut holding the electrical terminals in place. Just loosen it enough to remove the breaker rocker arm. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to lift it straight up.

Removal of the breaker rocker arm.

Cleaning up the wiring terminal connectors with sandpaper. Make sure all electrical connections are bright, shiny, and clean.

Clean body cavity out with Q-tip soaked in acetone. Blow out when done.

Used a points file instead of sandpaper on the breaker points. You can get one at most full-line auto parts stores.

Breaker points filed and ready to reinstall.

A dab of grease on the breaker rocker arm post and under the cam per the Owner's Manual.

Screw heads cleaned up with a file and a hacksaw blade.

There's a raised line on the distributor rotor that needs to be aligned with the line on the rotor pinion. I've highlighted both lines with a silver marker. These have to be lined up for the mag to be in time.

The Manual calls for magneto grease, but don't believe that's available anymore. I use dielectric grease. Others, who are more experienced than me, probably use different types of grease. Again, I'm describing what I do, not telling you how to do it.

End result: Nice spark.

[Stanton]

Well, it's time to bring this one to a close. Started Nellie today for the first time since...(I can't remember). Have some adjusting to do to get rid of the surging, but here's a 0:30 second video of the start-up. She has good oil pressure and no smoke.

https://youtube.com/shorts/BjFAM7l3Rg0?feature=share

Thanks to everyone, including the experts, on here that helped with suggestions and answers.

[Jimmler]

Sounds great! Good job!!

[Dale Finch]

HOT DIGGITY!!! Congrats!!

[PFord]

Great stuff!

[dgrapes59]

Great job, Stanton! Thanks for taking the time to document your project, I enjoyed following it!

[Pap]

Great Job Stanton !! Great video !!
I have truly enjoyed it !!
Thanks..