I'm modifying my blade to Ricky's trip blade and was wondering what the consensus was on the best skids for pushing snow? THe metal ones I had on it eventually wore through, So was wondering if there was any suggestions.
Idea I had was to get some small caster wheels and get a tube and weld that to the back of the blade, (similar to what Ricky's blade was) and that way they would serve as skids but not wear.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Shawn
Cub 54 blade skids
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Cub 54 blade skids
Shawn Agne
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
If you're plowing snow, wouldn't the wheels get packed with snow and quit turning?
"We don't need to think more,
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we need to think differently."
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
There's "feet" for more modern plows. They've evolved for how they skid and wear. They can snag though depending on what's below them and the ground condition before frozen. Do be sure they are not frozen in if they set parked before use or moving the plow. Regardless of condition when parked. (Sun can heat and sink them outside then they freeze into place at night for example. Warm temps on a dirt floor similarly.)
For a Cub I'd be tempted to just replace the skids with what was already being run.. Maybe design some that can just be flipped when worn to ride on the other end. Just a wear part of sacrificial stock is all they are.
For a Cub I'd be tempted to just replace the skids with what was already being run.. Maybe design some that can just be flipped when worn to ride on the other end. Just a wear part of sacrificial stock is all they are.
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
I tried some caster wheels last winter. Since I was just trying it out, I made up mounting brackets with some scrap wood. The only real error in what I did was the height that I had them mounted. I didn't allow enough for the blade leaning forward while pushing. Part of the time the blade was on the blacktop with the wheels off the ground. You need to try to get the pin the casters rotate on to be vertical (again while under load).
After I tried them one time, I didn't use that blade again for the rest of the season. So my test was pretty limited. I think they worked okay. It would be pretty straightforward to replace the wooden blocks with steel brackets. Incorporating height adjustment similar to the original skids should be easy enough and would be helpful. Whatever you do, be careful about how close you get to the tractor tires. With the blade adjusted forward, there is barely room for the stock skids. I don't think there is room for castors any larger than the ones I tried. You don't really want to have to buy a new tire every time the blade hits an obstruction.
After I tried them one time, I didn't use that blade again for the rest of the season. So my test was pretty limited. I think they worked okay. It would be pretty straightforward to replace the wooden blocks with steel brackets. Incorporating height adjustment similar to the original skids should be easy enough and would be helpful. Whatever you do, be careful about how close you get to the tractor tires. With the blade adjusted forward, there is barely room for the stock skids. I don't think there is room for castors any larger than the ones I tried. You don't really want to have to buy a new tire every time the blade hits an obstruction.
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
Shawn,
If you are on asphalt/concrete put a urethane cutting edge on the blade and don't use skids. I have done this for several years and am delighted with the results. The urethane cutting edge does not dig into the sod as much as a steel one, which I think is a real advantage.
Bill
If you are on asphalt/concrete put a urethane cutting edge on the blade and don't use skids. I have done this for several years and am delighted with the results. The urethane cutting edge does not dig into the sod as much as a steel one, which I think is a real advantage.
Bill
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
The problem is my driveway for now is partial concrete and then gravel. Now my road that I plow just to play in is blacktop. The neighbors who I plow out are gravel/concrete. Basically this last year I had no skids and the cutting ends was the skid. Was just thinking of different options. Thanks.
Shawn Agne
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
It is for true a pain doing both gravel and macadam. Worse when the gravel is not flat. I have a small driveway so most of the time I drag the smaller stuff. The SC has skids but the gravel doesn't freeze and it is still a pain. I am going to try a piece of stall matting.
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
Bill Hudson wrote:Shawn,
If you are on asphalt/concrete put a urethane cutting edge on the blade and don't use skids. I have done this for several years and am delighted with the results. The urethane cutting edge does not dig into the sod as much as a steel one, which I think is a real advantage.
Bill
Ditto....
Mine is used on dirt, grass, asphalt and gravel.
Dave
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
Try Amazon for ideas. 5 pages of different type of "snow plow shoes". As well as blade edges which are replaceable. May even find springs for the blade tripping function. Over 5 pages of different types, as well as mounting options. I use them a lot for ideas. Remember use only the bottom hole on the blade adjustment, blade needs to look like it is going to fall over. Good luck.
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Re: Cub 54 blade skids
I jest made a copy of the old shoe by welding on a piece of 1/2" AR500 to the remains of the old shoe bracket and adding a gusset. The AR500 holds up better to the wear. Just replace with another piece when it gets too thin. Works well for replacement plow points also.
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