What all do I need to crank start?

[Eugene]

You said that the tractor sat for 30 years and that it had good compression. What were you compression test reading? Reason I'm asking is that I doubt that you have good compression on all cylinders.

Magneto, no spark, and wanting to change the condenser. Just wipe the points, cleaning off any corrosion and check again. Don't change the points and condenser - - YET.

[Waif]

Wire from coil goes through an insulating (and sealing sort of) , rubber grommet.
Your points ride on an insulating piece of material too ,so not to ground them out. That piece can break easily by overtightening the base's tiny fastener.

[tmays]

If it sat for 30 years, there’s no way I’d try cranking it with hand crank. File the points, clean the carb, prime the oil pump, check the oil and water, then I might try pulling it to start or put battery on it to start. If you do try to start with hand crank, pay attention to the video someone shared a link to on a cub. Do not try to start it the way the guy is starting the B in the other video. And don’t try turning the crank swiftly as suggested. Give it a good hard pull on the upward stroke of the crank being careful to keep your thumb on same side of crank as your fingers

[Rick Spivey]

getting fuel but no spark.. IT DOES HAVE A MAG - H-4. With help from Jim Becker got to points which look good. Want to replace and do condenser while I'm there but cannot get it out..

Have removed the cover, the bake lite insulator but there is an inside insulator that I'm cannot tell whether it should go in the hole or come out. Also the coil wire is connected to it. what is the best way to disconnect that.

Lot of questions but rather get info before ruining something that I can no longer get parts for.

Couple of notes. A Cub should be using a J4 magneto, as stated earlier. I've seen one running on an H4, so it is possible. But an H4 has much more total advance, so the timing will be somewhat impossible to get correct at both idle and high speed. In your case with a Cub that hasn't run in quite some time, you would be better off with the correct magneto; I'd at least give up on the idea of hand cranking until that has been corrected.

Also, an H4 condenser has a "clamp" on the far end, away from where the wire is connected. That needs to be loosened before the condenser can be removed. All of this is much easier with the magneto off the tractor.