Clutch replacement

[JimN]

Need to replace a clutch on a friends cub. Supposedly the tractor was restored/rebuilt.. but the clutch disc has broken into pieces.
Was going to order parts ahead of time so I could make the repair quickly. The Steiner clutch kit has the disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw-out bearing. Anything unusual in these tractors I should be prepared for, or plan on replacement?

[Don McCombs]

If the rear engine seal is leaking, you may want to replace it while you have the tractor split. Tim Talleur (tst) makes a good replacement assembly.

[JimN]

I will ask if it is leaking oil. Good thought.
..... Looking at some parts diagrams, what about:
Clutch release yoke pivot pin
Clutch release yoke pair
Clutch release yoke clevis pins
Do these often need replacement?

[Eugene]

My opinion.

Don't order parts until you know what you need.

Be concerned about the quality of the parts in a kit.

I would order parts from the advertisers on this site. The advertisers know Cubs and handle quality parts.

[Barnyard]

Jim get your clutch kit from Hamilton Bob in Hamilton. I am just east of Cincinnati and I get my clutches from him.

[SamsFarm]

The Steiner clutch kit has the disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throw-out bearing.

Seems everything I hear you guys get from steiner is chinese, so steiner would be the last place I would look!

Its been a few years, but I got mine from This place!

http://w-t-p.com

Good luck.......

It is really not that bad of a job!

[Barnyard]

Jim, this is the one I use from Hamilton Bob. It seems to be a good one.
https://hamiltonbobs.com/cart/product/c ... /cub-mm227

[JimN]

Hamilton Bob’s it is..
Thanks,
Jim

[Barnyard]

I was told the graphite tob is better than the roller bearing one.

[Glen]

I will ask if it is leaking oil. Good thought.
..... Looking at some parts diagrams, what about:
Clutch release yoke pivot pin
Clutch release yoke pair
Clutch release yoke clevis pins
Do these often need replacement?

Hi,
The holes on the throwout bearing holder can wear, if they are worn or loose, the holder should be repaired or replaced.
The pin at the top of the holder can wear, it should be replaced if worn.

TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has the clutch parts you wrote above.
Their holder is for Cubs serial number 32229 and above, they have an external free play adjustment, at the base of the clutch pedal.
If the Cub is below that serial number, the holder is different.

Check the holder, it should not be loose up and down, or side to side. It needs to hold the throwout bearing centered on the 3 pressure plate fingers.

Here is some clutch info, if you need it.

Some people on here like the original Cub pressure plates better than replacement plates.
They say use the original again, if it is in good condition.

The 3 fingers need their height adjusted, after the clutch is assembled on the flywheel, even if it a new pressure plate.
The fingers need to form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.
The people on here say they should be set to about 1 1/4" high, from the surface under them.
Below is a pic of where to measure to, the pressure plate has to be assembled on the flywheel, not off, like the pic is.

The people on here say to soak a new throwout bearing in light motor oil for a day or more, and grease the grease fitting with cheap grease, so the oil in the grease will absorb into the graphite material, before putting it in.
The original throwout bearings have a small hole at the top of the bearing to let out excess grease, if the new bearing has one, grease it until grease comes out the hole.

If you are replacing the pilot bushing, some of the new bushings are too small an ID after being driven in the crankshaft hole. They need measuring with a dial caliper, and reaming if too small.
If the ID is too small, and you put the Cub together, the bushing can hold the end of the clutch shaft too tight, then the clutch shaft can keep turning when you push the clutch pedal down.
Then you can't shift into gear.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual, with the clearance spec, at Spline and clutch shaft.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg

Turn the clutch shaft while the Cub is split, and be sure it is straight, it can cause a problem if it is bent.

Tighten the 6 bolts holding the pressure plate on evenly, it is loading the springs as you tighten the bolts.

I would put a thin layer of grease on the front end of the clutch shaft, and in the pilot bushing before putting the Cub together.

The clutch pedal should have a return spring under the platform, to hold it up against the platform.
The pedal should have 1" of free play, if it is the style with the external adjustment, measured at the surface where you put your foot.

Before splitting a Cub, you need to put wooden wedges at the front axle pivot. A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over when removing large parts from the rear of them, or splitting them.
The 2nd pic below is a pic of the wedges, you will need to make them. Drive them in tight with a hammer, and check them some during the work and be sure they don't come loose.
They should be tight on the top and bottom sides. Cut off the small end some if they hit at the small end.