Sediment Bowl Outlet Threads

[lyle11]

I’ve read the numerous threads and how to procedures on fixing or eliminating the sediment bowl. From my own experience, and comments from others, it looks like new sediment bowls from any source aren’t very good. I’d prefer to keep a sediment bowl, even though others like the inline filter with a shutoff. I’m not looking to rehash that. Since it seems like you can’t buy a good sediment bowl assembly, I’d like to first see if I can salvage my old original sediment bowl.

If my specific question has been covered in the past, please direct me to it since I couldn’t find it.

My issue is, I’m sure, very common and one of the main reasons for buying a new one. The Outlet threads where the fuel line connects are worn to the point where the fitting won’t engage with the ferrule in place. However, without the ferrule I have enough good threads to rotate the fitting 2 full rotations. I ran a clean out tap through it but the outer threads just don’t have enough material left to grab the fitting. I do not have the parts or tools to install a helicoil. I haven’t had much luck with JB Weld thread fixes.

So, what I was hoping to do is to install a fitting with thread locker in the good remaining internal threads that would have the proper connection on the outside to connect my 1/2-20 brake line with a ferrule.

I went to ACE Hardware and Menards with my brake line fitting in hand. I concluded, that a 5/16 Inverted Flare type fitting has the correct threads to install in the old sediment bowl. And, I think on the other side I need a 5/16 compression fitting with internal 1/2-20 threads. But, I could not find such a fitting or for that matter 2 fittings.

I am very bad at understanding the sizing of the various brass flare and compression fittings. Just looking at them the size descriptions don’t make any sense.

Alternatively, is there anything that would work using a brake line with the flared end left in place? I assume it needs the reverse of the concave surface in the sediment bowl. I have not looked at an auto parts store to see if they have anything that might work.

Worst case, I buy a new sediment bowl from TM and hope it holds up. The last one I bought from TM was about 15 years ago and was the original Case part. I think I paid $33.75. Wish I had bought 3 of them.

Also, since new sediment bowl quality is so poor, has anybody ever considered refurbishing original sediment bowls. Helicoil the outlet threads, new packing on the stem, etc. Or, is there a point where the valve stem or internals are too worn to salvage it?

Thanks

[Bob McCarty]

On carb inlet threads that are too stripped to helicoil, I use an Edelmann 168540 fitting. It is pipe thread on one end and a 5/16 compression fitting on the other end. You'd JB Weld the pipe thread end into the sediment bowl top. You'll then need to cut about 3/8 to 1/2" off of the gas line, put on the female end, then the ferrule and tighten onto the sediment bowl. If the bowl is off the tank, you can do it more easily on the bench. I've done lots of carbs, no sediment bowls, but expect it work equally well. You can order online, or an auto parts store may have them in stock.

[lyle11]

Thanks Bob. Sounds like what I need.

[lyle11]

If you have a problem with your sediment bowl fuel outlet threads, Bob McCarty’s carburetor fuel inlet fix can be used here too. I ordered the Edelmann 168540 fitting on EBay. Cost me $5.57 including tax and shipping. Arrived in 3 days. I already had JB Weld on hand.

I cleaned up the threads on both parts, then coated the threads with JB Weld. As I turned the fitting, it seemed to bite into the soft material and come to a nice firm stop. I wiped off the excess JB Weld and will let it sit for 24 hours with the repair straight up.

I have high confidence this will work. Certainly beats buying a new sediment bowl.

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