1963 Lo Cub

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I just went through the oil prime situation and had to replace all my rod bearings. My tractor sat for over 20 years, so not only was the pump out of oil but I imagine the crank was bone dry.

There is another place to back prime the pump, inside the oil filter housing, the galley towards the front of the tractor, runs vertically just under the hex plug you mention on the right side of the tractor. FYI - there is also a hex plug inside the cam cover. Near as I can tell, the galley on the left connects over to the galley on the right through the galley inside the cam cover.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Forgot to add, my oil gauge was stuck, and compressed air got it to move, but I don't trust it now. A generic replacement was installed until I get a new OEM gauge.

[wrz]

It is interesting to see the fast hitch lift arms are connected directly to the support bar for the pull bar. The pictures don't show if the fast hitch bail is in place.
Wm

[BaconFarms]

Nice to get the operator and owners manuals with it. What is that on the steering column? Tach?

Yes, that is a tach. I think it is the new Wi-Fi type, as there is no cable or wires.

BaconFarms

[BaconFarms]

It is interesting to see the fast hitch lift arms are connected directly to the support bar for the pull bar. The pictures don't show if the fast hitch bail is in place.
Wm

Here are some pictures of the bail. There are some parts that I came with that may contribute to the fast hitch system.

BaconFarms

[BaconFarms]

Forgot to add, my oil gauge was stuck, and compressed air got it to move, but I don't trust it now. A generic replacement was installed until I get a new OEM gauge.

Went out this morning and grabbed the fan and the engine turns freely. I'm pretty sure if I had "no" oil pressure and I ran it for over an hour, the bearing would be junk like you said. We will figure it out before we start it again.

I do see that the oil goes from the pump to the bearings then to the filter and gauge, so it is different than the pressurized oil filters with bypasses, like in some spin on filters with pressure reliefs valves and pressure relief valve adapters etc..

Too hot today, that and the grandson is coming. 4YO. He can carry a wrench, just can't turn a wrench yet, but I'm working on it. He is a good rock picker though.

BaconFarms

[NJ Farmer]

Sorry I was writing before looking. Yes sitting in the driver’s seat (as always) the plug is located on the LEFT SIDE under the hydraulic lines as Barnyard stated.

Thanks for the correction!

Anyway shoot 10 pumps in that hole and you should hopefully reprint the pump!

NJ Farmer

[BaconFarms]

New battery, spins like a champ.

Tested oil pressure gauge, works fine.

Pulled filter and squirted hole full of tranny fluid (what was in the squirt bottle), about 4 pumps. Old filter had recent oil activity i.e., saturated with oil.

Put new oil filter in and tried to fill with a quart of oil, but once full, it drains out pretty fast.

Buttoned her up and started the engine. Low oil pressure, but at least on the gauge.

A minute later, the gauge was up to half at idle and more than 3/4's a full tilt.

I will bow to the experts here, and thanks. I do believe I had some oil pressure, and maybe the gauge was air locked, but I do not think I had zero oil pressure after running it for an hour.

But a lesson learned, none the less,

BaconFarms

[BaconFarms]

For those who were trying to explain the hole and also the hex plug. If you look closely, you will see the hex plug right above the hole in the filter cavity.

I should have rubbed some oil on it so it would have showed up in the picture better. Once you know its there, one could just pull that and flood it with oil.

Thanks again,

BaconFarms

[Clemsonfor]

It has plenty of oil on the stick, but the gauge doesn't move. So, I will get a new gauge. I probably drove it about a mile, so if it didn't have any oil pressure, it would be junk by now.

Thanks,

BaconFarms

NOPE !!!! I'm sure Barnyard answered below me and other have. Pay attention to what they say. I would be money the gauge is right and you have NO oil pressure if you didn't prime the pump first! Follow the pump prime instructions!

[BaconFarms]

Well, for the record, and there were 5 witnesses.

With no pressure on the gauge, I started it, raced my cousins '49 Cub in the quarter mile twice. I lost both times. Drove it to his house, a half mile, left it running and we walked into the back of his property, he thought he had a quick hitch plow, came back to the tractor and drove it home. Left it idle for at least another half hour by the shop, then drove it to my house. At least an hour if not an hour and a half, run time without shutting it off.

I do know when the oil pickup falls of a SBC, it lasts about 3 minutes before you hear some strange noises, and if you shut it off before it seizes, it will be stuck the next morning for sure. Been there.

Bottom line is I have oil pressure on the gauge now thanks to you guys on this site,

Thank YOU!!

BaconFarms

[BaconFarms]

I am also having a hard time finding the engine serial number listing. My number is FCUBM 241725. Would like to know if that is correct for a '63 Lo Boy.

Thanks,

BaconFarms

[Don McCombs]

241XXX would be appropriate for a 1963 LoBoy.

[Gary S.]

Late to the party but the reason you don't have to prime the other engines your used to is because most likely their oil pumps are down in the oil pan saturated with crankcase oil. A cubs pump is mounted up on the back side of the engine in the bellhousing area,oil will have a tendency to drain back leaving the system dry if it sits a long time.

[Glen]

Hi,
The oil pump is run by the rear of the camshaft, the camshaft sticks through the rear of the engine block, and 1 oil pump gear is on the end of the camshaft.

It is farther for the oil pump to lift the oil from the oil pan than if the pump was down in the oil pan area.
That is probably why some of them can't suck oil up from the pan after sitting.

Below are pages from the Cub service manual showing where the oil pump is, the oil passages, and telling how how the lubrication system works.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-53.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-54.jpg

In the last paragraph on page 2 above, it says if the oil gauge shows no pressure, stop the engine and find the cause.
The operator's manuals say that too.

I noticed that your LoBoy seems to have a Fast Hitch and a drawbar.
Originally they have one or the other, as far as I know.
I've never seen one on here with both, that I remember.

Below is a page from the 1957 LoBoy operator's manual, showing the Fast Hitch, it fits differently than yours is, the parts at the rear hang down, not angled back.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2019.jpg

I would be careful lifting Fast Hitch implements with the hitch socket so far to the rear, the front wheels could come off the ground.
It looks like in your pics that the hitch socket is many inches farther to the rear than originally.

Raymond Durban's database shows that Cub, or LoBoy engine serial number 241723 would have been made in 1963.

You can look at the date code and see what it says.
Cubs and LoBoys have date codes cast into the larger castings, they tell when the parts were made.
The year is a letter.
Below is info from TM Tractor showing what date codes are.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_004.htm

The page below shows where the codes are.
The code on the clutch housing is usually partly behind the clutch pedal.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/castdate_loc.htm