Mower won't Lower on my 53 Cub...

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Farmer Dell
Posts: 33
Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2019 10:53 am
Zip Code: 21666
eBay ID: US-Rol
Tractors Owned: 1953 Farmall Cub

1960 Economy Jim Dandy (sold)
1964 John Deere 110
1980 John Deere 108 (sold)
Twitter ID: @ChaplainDell
Location: Kent Island, MD.

Re: Mower won't Lower on my 53 Cub...

Postby Farmer Dell » Mon Jun 14, 2021 8:37 pm

OK. I found the hydraulic leak, it is seeping out by the control arm below the tank. However, I can only notice it when the hydraulic pump is engaged.
I'm at a loss on how to replace the seal, can someone draw me a picture :wink: on how you get underneath the tank to do this job?
Or maybe I will have to just keep adding fluid, my dip wire doesn't show a loss when I check it.

BTW: I left the ignition on in turning off the fuel and running the carburetor dry; now the new battery is weak even with 10 hrs of charging. My refractometer says "needs a charge" at the bottom of the spectrum, even though I've charged it! And my generator gauge might be bad, as it hardly moves. I have another gauge, but how does one check the generator output with a meter?
I may have to start a new thread on this one? :thanx:

User avatar
Glen
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 5520
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Mower won't Lower on my 53 Cub...

Postby Glen » Tue Jun 15, 2021 2:04 am

Hi,
If the Touch Control leaks from the front of the unit, the Control Valve o ring could be wornout, and need replacing.
The Touch Control cylinder and piston could be leaking, that is higher up than the control valve.
Use a light, and try to see where it is leaking.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor showing a new Control Valve o ring, it is a Case IH part, it says. There is a pic there showing where it is.
The valve pulls out the front of the block. You don't need to remove the Touch Control head, on the rear of the block, to replace the control valve o ring.
You may need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the unit onto the clutch housing, the tubes, and the control lever rod, and turn it to the left to get the valve out. You have to lift it some, the bolt heads for the bottom cover would keep it from turning to the side. Or you can remove the unit and set it on your work bench.
You would probably need to remove the starter rod, and the choke rod to remove the unit.
Drain the system first, like the owner's manual says, remove the filler plug, then the drain plug.

Whenever disassembling a Touch Control, it should be clean. Don't allow any dirt or grit inside the unit.
If you need to replace the o ring, clean the area well, and use plenty of Hy-Tran fluid on the o ring and valve, when putting the o ring on the valve, and when putting the valve into the unit again.
Feel the area around the hole for the valve in the block, be sure it is smooth and clean.
Any roughness can cut the new o ring.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

If you wanted, if you take the unit off the Cub, you could remove the bottom cover, and clean the strainer. The strainer is visible from the bottom of the unit, but can't be removed from the bottom.
It slides out the head end of the block, after removing the head.
Below is a listing for the strainer at TM Tractor, you can look at the pics and see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/918fp.htm

The bottom cover has many bolts, and a gasket, the gasket probably would need replacing if you took the cover off. TM Tractor has a new gasket. I would use some sealer on the gasket, it might help prevent seeping over time.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/471fp.htm

When you get it to work, remember to fill the unit the last time with the arms in the rear or down position, like the Cub operator's manual says.

Below is a post I made about checking and changing the Touch Control fluid.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

Below is a pic of a Touch Control leaking at the front, I guess this is what you meant yours is doing.

The 2nd pic below is from TM Tractor, it is of the front of a Touch Control, with the rockshaft off.
The Control Valve is at the lower right, right in the pic. :)
Attachments
Cub Touch Control 7 .jpg
Cub T C 4.jpg

User avatar
Glen
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 5520
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Mower won't Lower on my 53 Cub...

Postby Glen » Tue Jun 15, 2021 2:25 am

To test the generator output, connect an automotive test voltmeter to the battery and run the engine.
They say on here that a voltmeter with a dial and pointer works better for a Cub.

It should show above 6 volts after running for a small time, if the battery is fully charged.
The Cub service manual says it should be 6.6 to 7.2 volts, for Cubs with the voltage regulator system, which a 1953 Cub should have.

Some of them I have seen people post about on here don't seem to put out that much voltage. :)

User avatar
Farmer Dell
Posts: 33
Joined: Sat Sep 14, 2019 10:53 am
Zip Code: 21666
eBay ID: US-Rol
Tractors Owned: 1953 Farmall Cub

1960 Economy Jim Dandy (sold)
1964 John Deere 110
1980 John Deere 108 (sold)
Twitter ID: @ChaplainDell
Location: Kent Island, MD.

Re: Mower won't Lower on my 53 Cub...

Postby Farmer Dell » Tue Jun 15, 2021 7:12 am

Glen, you are a lifesaver! The links and information you provided gives me the direction that I need without pouring through the manual and piecing together information, and I am most grateful!
To tell you the truth, I print out the responses and take them to my shop to reference, it is the next best thing to having a knowledgeable mechanic alongside you!
I will have to take some time to study up on the links provided and coordinate them with my manual in my downtime, but I love the most dependable feed back! :thanx:


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