Now I've Done It - Governor Question
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Now I've Done It - Governor Question
I was installing the carburetor. I attached the throttle linkage to the carburetor no problem but the cotter pin was not cooperating. I pulled the linkage towards the carburetor and against the tension in the governor, and the governor arm shifted, like it skipped a tooth inside. Now the governor arm is in a new position and I can only attach the clevis by making the throttle linkage shorter which of course does not fix the problem, because the governor does not return to an idle position any longer. The throttle hand lever cannot be returned to idle position. Is there an external adjustment on the governor to fix this or do I need to take the governor off. Thank you for your help.
I searched for information on this governor and can't find much. I have the IH Service Manual but it only covers the engine, not the governor.
I searched for information on this governor and can't find much. I have the IH Service Manual but it only covers the engine, not the governor.
Last edited by eric1963buick on Wed May 26, 2021 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
I am going to say I don't think you could skip a tooth by doing this . I'm no expert but the gears seam just too hardy for that. I really have no guidance for you here but all I can say is open it up. The way I see it is it's broke anyways so what do you have to loose ? Maybe static time the tractor befor disassembly this might take some questions away during reassembly. Whatever the problem it can't be too serious . Hopefully someone with experience on this issue can chime in.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
I suspect your bumper spring may have jumped out of its seat.
I'm working on a '49, and my bumper spring was missing (later found it in the oil pan!). I noticed that a little side pressure on the governor shaft would permit the spring to slip past the fingers. I turned a quick bushing on the large to prohibit this. Don't know for sure that the spring could become loose when the governor was assembled, but I know mine can't go anywhere now.
Good luck to you!
I'm working on a '49, and my bumper spring was missing (later found it in the oil pan!). I noticed that a little side pressure on the governor shaft would permit the spring to slip past the fingers. I turned a quick bushing on the large to prohibit this. Don't know for sure that the spring could become loose when the governor was assembled, but I know mine can't go anywhere now.
Good luck to you!
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
I, too, thought you might have a problem either with the bumper spring or the rockshaft fork. The bumper spring can be removed and checked without removing the governor, but checking the fork, I believe, requires removal of the governor.
You might also check the governor spring and lever, to make sure it didn't break or come loose.
You might also check the governor spring and lever, to make sure it didn't break or come loose.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Thanks. I finally found some mediocre instructions in an I&T Cub Lo-Boy manual. Apparently the distributor needs to be removed first.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Hi,
Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info.
The governor is in section 2.
There is a table of contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, it makes it easier to use online.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
A 1949 Cub came with a magneto. Someone could have changed it to a Battery Ignition unit.
I would turn the engine to number 1 cylinder TDC first, before you remove the governor or magneto, or Battery Ignition unit, whichever it has.
The oil seal between the governor and magneto, or Battery Ignition unit, may need replacing, if it is leaking oil. TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has a new oil seal.
Below is a pic of how the magneto, or Battery Ignition unit drive should be turned with the engine at number 1 cylinder TDC.
There are timing marks on the gears, they are shown in the service manual.
Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info.
The governor is in section 2.
There is a table of contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, it makes it easier to use online.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
A 1949 Cub came with a magneto. Someone could have changed it to a Battery Ignition unit.
I would turn the engine to number 1 cylinder TDC first, before you remove the governor or magneto, or Battery Ignition unit, whichever it has.
The oil seal between the governor and magneto, or Battery Ignition unit, may need replacing, if it is leaking oil. TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has a new oil seal.
Below is a pic of how the magneto, or Battery Ignition unit drive should be turned with the engine at number 1 cylinder TDC.
There are timing marks on the gears, they are shown in the service manual.

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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Not sure how the Governor Rod can shift unless the half moon Key fell out
Could it be possible the arm shifted on the carburetor
Could it be possible the arm shifted on the carburetor
Last edited by Steve Butram on Thu May 27, 2021 3:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Steve Butram wrote:Not sure how the Governor Rod can shift on unless the half moon Key fell out
I think Steve is onto something. Perhaps the key broke or due to the socket wear, has slipped past the key slot.
I found that my key sat very low in the shaft and barely stuck up above the shaft. I put a few drops of epoxy under a new key to raise it.
Last edited by outdoors4evr on Thu May 27, 2021 6:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
I too think you have sheared the woodruff key at the location where the governor rock shaft connects to the governor. It's a tiny key and can be worn quite thin over time, I've sheared one before, basically doing just what you were doing, just got a little too forceful. Pull the rock shaft off first and have a look.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Steve Butram wrote:Not sure how the Governor Rod can shift on unless the half moon Key fell out
Could it be possible the arm shifted on the carburetor
This might be worth looking into
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Thanks. I will check the woodruff key. Can I just remove the governor cover? Or do I need to remove the distributor and then the whole governor assembly?
Last edited by eric1963buick on Thu May 27, 2021 5:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1953 Cub
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Hi,
No, you don't need to remove the governor or distributor to check what they said above.
It is the governor's external linkage. It goes across the front of the engine. Look in from the left side, by the fan, using a good light, and you can see it. The end of the shaft is below the governor spring.
Look at the pic of the governor on page 2 - 15 of the service manual I posted at my post above, it is where shaft number 30 goes into part number 8, the key is number 6.
Turn the shaft forward and back, there should be no play back and forth there where the key is, sometimes they are worn there.
Remove the 2 bolts holding number 5 onto the engine, and the shaft slides out complete with the support.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the assembly.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/ggv ... n1_001.htm
Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing where the keyway is, it is the open hole below the governor spring.
You could also work oil into the arm and shaft where the cotter key is, the arms can get tight there from no lube.
No, you don't need to remove the governor or distributor to check what they said above.
It is the governor's external linkage. It goes across the front of the engine. Look in from the left side, by the fan, using a good light, and you can see it. The end of the shaft is below the governor spring.
Look at the pic of the governor on page 2 - 15 of the service manual I posted at my post above, it is where shaft number 30 goes into part number 8, the key is number 6.
Turn the shaft forward and back, there should be no play back and forth there where the key is, sometimes they are worn there.
Remove the 2 bolts holding number 5 onto the engine, and the shaft slides out complete with the support.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the assembly.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/ggv ... n1_001.htm
Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing where the keyway is, it is the open hole below the governor spring.
You could also work oil into the arm and shaft where the cotter key is, the arms can get tight there from no lube.

Last edited by Glen on Thu May 27, 2021 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Thanks Glen I just checked the woodruff key and it’s fine. Now can I remove the governor cover or do I need to remove the distributor and ignition assembly and the whole governor assembly
1953 Cub
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
Hi,
The governor is supposed to be tight in the housing, but it might come apart, leaving the part with the gear and the weights in the engine.
If you take it apart, I would check the weight pins, and the holes in the weights for wear, sometimes they get worn. They should have no wear, so the weights don't move side to side.
When putting it together, be sure the 3 piece bearing is in place at the end of the governor shaft.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of how the governor housing should look inside.
The governor is supposed to be tight in the housing, but it might come apart, leaving the part with the gear and the weights in the engine.
If you take it apart, I would check the weight pins, and the holes in the weights for wear, sometimes they get worn. They should have no wear, so the weights don't move side to side.
When putting it together, be sure the 3 piece bearing is in place at the end of the governor shaft.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of how the governor housing should look inside.

Last edited by Glen on Thu May 27, 2021 5:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Now I've Done It - Governor Question
The cover is tight on the governor. I will remove the distributor.
Remember this started with a cotter pin at the carburetor. Haha. Please tell me I don’t have to pull the crankshaft. I did that 10 years ago.
Remember this started with a cotter pin at the carburetor. Haha. Please tell me I don’t have to pull the crankshaft. I did that 10 years ago.
1953 Cub
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