1952 compression

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outdoors4evr
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby outdoors4evr » Mon May 03, 2021 4:48 am

Your rings are not yet seated.
I'd put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder and then pull start it. Run the tow strap or chain under the tractor and attach to the drawbar. Don't tow from the front. Go nice and slow with the tow vehicle (5mph) and use third gear on the tractor.
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby Eugene » Mon May 03, 2021 6:16 am

outdoors4evr wrote:Your rings are not yet seated.
I'd put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder and then pull start it. Run the tow strap or chain under the tractor and attach to the drawbar. Don't tow from the front. Go nice and slow with the tow vehicle (5mph) and use third gear on the tractor.
Compression prior to the rebuild.
dterhaar2000 wrote: I had reading 30-50 on all cylinders dry and wet.
Compression after the rebuild, wet test.
dterhaar2000 wrote:60-65 psi for all 4 cylinders
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: 1952 compression

Postby Gary Dotson » Mon May 03, 2021 7:17 am

When testing with air pressure, each piston must be set to top dead center on the compression stroke. Test that cylinder, set the next one at TDC and test it. Only one piston can be at TDC on compression stroke at any time. I think you may have a procedural problem. Are you sure your compression tester reads properly.

dterhaar2000
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby dterhaar2000 » Mon May 03, 2021 1:38 pm

I bought a compression tester from harbor freight and it has the screw in style. So piston 1 and 4 are top together and 2 and 3 are top. I don't really see if one piston alone is at TDC.

dterhaar2000
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby dterhaar2000 » Mon May 03, 2021 1:54 pm

I tried pull starting it awhile back and my rear tires would just spin in opposite directions. I couldn't get the engine to crank at all.

Jim Becker
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby Jim Becker » Mon May 03, 2021 2:14 pm

Only one piston at a time will be at TDC on the compression stroke. Look at this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QXH5MaoKEE

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Re: 1952 compression

Postby Crimson Tim » Mon May 03, 2021 2:49 pm

dterhaar2000 wrote:I tried pull starting it awhile back and my rear tires would just spin in opposite directions. I couldn't get the engine to crank at all.


Were you using a low gear by any chance? You’ll want to use 3rd.
Otherwise, what surface were you trying this on? Try a harder surface with more traction: driveway, concrete, asphalt, etc.

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Re: 1952 compression

Postby Eugene » Mon May 03, 2021 3:54 pm

dterhaar2000 wrote:I bought a compression tester from harbor freight and it has the screw in style.
Harbor Freight - -. Many auto parts stores have quality loaner tools. Pay a deposit equal to the sale price. Return the tool in good condition, get the deposit back.

Other options; borrow one from a neighbor, buy one.
I have an excuse. CRS.

dterhaar2000
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby dterhaar2000 » Mon May 03, 2021 6:08 pm

I was trying to pull start it on the road and I was in 3rd. I was using a farmall h to pull it.

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Re: 1952 compression

Postby Eugene » Tue May 04, 2021 6:28 am

dterhaar2000 wrote:I was trying to pull start it on the road and I was in 3rd. I was using a farmall h to pull it.
From May 2020 Post:
dterhaar2000 wrote:Recently my 52 cub has been making some noise in the rear. When I go in reverse it seems to click and the left wheel seems to lock for a second. In forward it seems to be fine but I get random noise every once in a while. There is also fluid dripping out where the axle goes into tranny. Does it need a bearing or do I need to rebuild the rear end?
I have an excuse. CRS.

cuznguido
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby cuznguido » Tue May 04, 2021 10:53 am

A critical step that is often overlooked may be your problem. Each ring needs to be inserted at least an inch down into the cylinder and the gap checked with feeler gauge. If your gap is too narrow you file it, if too wide your cylinder is too worn. If worn bad enough a rebore is required however, (and I get some comments about this) you can get .010 oversize rings and file them to fit each individual bore. The purists are gonna disagree with this but I have done it many times and on engines way bigger than a cub. It works. A cheap fix but it works.

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Re: 1952 compression

Postby SamsFarm » Tue May 04, 2021 11:04 am

dterhaar2000 wrote:I just bought a new head from steiner about 2 weeks ago.


Your new head made in china? Did you check it to see that it was flat?

Did you use a high quality USA made head gasket like a felpro?

dterhaar2000 wrote:What would cause it not to seat properly? I cleaned the top of the block very well before putting it on.


Warped block, warped head, faulty head gasket......

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Re: 1952 compression

Postby SamsFarm » Tue May 04, 2021 11:18 am

dterhaar2000 wrote:I bought a compression tester from harbor freight and it has the screw in style. So piston 1 and 4 are top together and 2 and 3 are top. I don't really see if one piston alone is at TDC.


Tdc referes to the piston being at the top while in the compression stroke!

If piston 1 is at tdc in compression stroke #4 will be in exhaust stroke at the same time! #4 exhaust valve will be open at this time!

When piston 2 is at the tdc in the compression stroke #3 will be in exhaust mode as well, with #3 exaust valve open!

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Re: 1952 compression

Postby Eugene » Tue May 04, 2021 11:21 am

SamsFarm wrote:Warped block, warped head, faulty head gasket......
Had one used head that the holes in head for one bolt did not exactly lining up with the block threads. Caused bolt to bind on head when torque down.

Head getting slightly tilted when setting in place.
I have an excuse. CRS.

dterhaar2000
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Re: 1952 compression

Postby dterhaar2000 » Tue May 04, 2021 3:54 pm

I will check the ring gap. What should the gap be on the rings?
Thanks for the heads up on the compression and exhaust strokes that helps me understand a little better.


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