Pressure Plate Finger Loose

[lyle11]

After splitting it, Glen was right. I was getting wear on the TO bearing that showed that it was moving in the holder a lot. There was about 3/8” gap between the pin and the casting on each side of the TO bearing holder. The holes for the pin in the holder are worn some so I’m just gonna buy the new parts from TM rather than bend it to fit.

One thing I noticed is that there is about 1/8” of wobble in the drive shaft at the position where the TO bearing is located. Based on my old beat up bearing, it looks to have a large enough opening where the shaft goes through to accommodate this movement without touching the bearing and moving it. Please let me know if this is a problem. It’s hard to see but at the point where the stir stick is, it touches the stick then rotated 180°the gap is about 1/8”.

DEAE8606-1E9E-4E66-81D4-5CE093A4E9C6.jpeg (25.71 KiB) Viewed 136 times

461CD612-F96D-4542-839C-456CFAB523A3.jpeg (24.46 KiB) Viewed 136 times

The pressure plate surface is pretty rough with some rust pitting. I’m gonna buy a new one from TM. The flywheel has a little light rust is a couple of places. Should I just go over it will a fine sanding block?

D61CB278-F364-4B74-9796-58CFC2B9C389.jpeg (22.23 KiB) Viewed 136 times

Thanks

[Eugene]

The flywheel, I would use 600 or higher grit sand paper on the entire face and see if that cleans up the rust and crud.

[Glen]

Hi,
The clutch shaft should be turned by hand when the Cub is split, and checked to see if it runs straight.

A bent shaft can cause problems, the shaft may not stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down. People have written about it happening before on here.
The end of the clutch shaft makes too much pressure to the side, in the pilot bushing, if the shaft is bent.
The shaft can get bent when someone splits the Cub, if they don't have everything blocked securely, and the clutch housing drops a little when the end of the shaft is still in the clutch.
The shaft can't hold the weight of the housing.

If the shaft is bent 1/8", I think you could try straightening it, push at the end the right way, and bend it straight. Turn it like you did, using the wood stick, and check the straightness.
I'm not sure what the experts would think about that, but I thought I'd suggest it. I don't know if they approve.

The pilot bushing should be measured with a dial caliper, and see how much it is worn.

If you replace the bushing, the ID of the new pilot bushing can shrink after the new bushing is driven into the crankshaft hole.
The ID should be measured after it is driven into the crankshaft hole, before putting the pressure plate on, and the ID reamed if it is too small, or it can fit too tight on the end of the clutch shaft, and keep it turning when you push the clutch pedal down.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual, telling the shaft size, and the running clearance, at Spline and clutch shaft.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg

Grease inside the pilot bushing, and the end of the shaft when putting the Cub together.

Tighten the 6 pressure plate bolts gradually, going around the plate, it is loading the springs as you tighten the bolts.

Check the finger height after the plate is assembled on the flywheel, the finger height should be
1 1/8" to 1 1/4" high from the surface below the fingers.
Below is a pic of where to measure, the pressure plate has to be assembled on the flywheel, not off, like the pic is.

[Gary Dotson]

Personally, I think a clutch shaft with 1/8" runout is straighter than most I've seen. When it's engaged into the pilot bushing, it will run true. Eugene mentions using very fine sand paper on the flywheel, I use much coarser paper, about 180 grit, on a sanding block.