1949 Winter project - my first Cub gets painted...some questions

[CapeCodCubs]

Hi...got the easy stuff done. Paint came out decent, my neighbor's son is 18 or 19 and has the paint bug and asked to paint my tractors. So we torn my first Cub (purchased 20 years ago) apart and wire brushed and prepped for paint and got it sprayed. Used Sherwin Williams base coat clear coat with hardener. Nice to see it looking good again...I painted it along time ago. Paint faded.







All of the bolts came out okay for the most part. Broke one radiator bolt and one of the rear wheel square bolts had to be split.




Painted the rims with brush on aluminum, new rims bolts. 10 year old BKT tires look brand spanking new, a little dirt and overspray



Some new Firestones From Miller Tire




It's coming all, here it is getting ready to get towed home

[CapeCodCubs]

I have a few questions. I got a new wiring harness because my old one was pieced together by me and I wanted to install everything correctly.

I could not find in the manuals the dash for 49 and want to set it up correctly. It is a two hole long ear dash and I would like to make sure I have the right switches (lights and ignition) are correct.

Does anyone have a picture of an original or correct 1949 dash panel?

[CapeCodCubs]

I will have some other questions coming up about the governor, the young man took it off to paint and then he really took it apart! I will cross that bridge later. It is all in pieces.

Same thing with the fan assembly. Will dig into that in the next few days with pictures of what I have to put back together. I took the fan hub off for him and wasn't expecting him to break it down. But it will give me a chance to go through it so that is good.

Thanks
Chris

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub looks good in your pictures.

Below is a page from the 1949 Cub operator's manual with pics of the dash, ammeter, and switches.
If you have a long ear dash, the switches may be positioned like in the pics.
IH changed the position of the switches over the years.

If you have the original 6 volt generator with cutout, or Relay IH called it, on top of the generator, it needs the 4 position switch on the dash, shown in the pic.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-04.jpg

It tells how to use the switch beginning at the lower left of the page below, if you need the info.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-34.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-35.jpg

Below are pics from TM Tractor of a long eared dash. You can see the hole for the 4 position switch has a notch in the side, so the switch fits one way in the hole.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gsu ... ng_001.htm

[CapeCodCubs]

Hi Glen,

Funny I looked on TM site for the dash pictures and must have been distracted. Perfect, everything was very helpful. Yes, I have an original generator I had rebuilt locally with a relay...so I will need to make to make sure I use a 4 position light. This is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Thank you very much!!!!

[Dale Finch]

Since your young man was do diligent, you might want to make sure you have BARE METAL mating surfaces of some components, such as starter, so that you have good chassis grounding. Otherwise, you'll be chasing electrical issues.

Other (but maybe not all) critical points that come to mind:
Battery box bottom (or wherever your ground cable attached.
Generator mounting bracket
Taillight bracket assembly
Instrument panel (dash) bottom
Voltage regulator mounting
...etcetera.

Looking good, and good practice for your painter!

[CapeCodCubs]

Good morning Dale,

Yes those are excellent points about keeping the metal bare to ground to the chassis. I have had issues in the past getting good ground contact. I totally forgot about under the dash. Thank you so much for bringing that up.

[Stanton]

Looking good in the pics!

[Jim Becker]

. . . Paint came out decent, my neighbor's son is 18 or 19 and has the paint bug and asked to paint my tractors. So we torn my first Cub (purchased 20 years ago) apart and wire brushed and prepped for paint and got it sprayed. Used Sherwin Williams base coat clear coat with hardener. . . .

I hope you thoroughly schooled him on the need to use a supplied air respirator.

[CapeCodCubs]

. . . Paint came out decent, my neighbor's son is 18 or 19 and has the paint bug and asked to paint my tractors. So we torn my first Cub (purchased 20 years ago) apart and wire brushed and prepped for paint and got it sprayed. Used Sherwin Williams base coat clear coat with hardener. . . .

I hope you thoroughly schooled him on the need to use a supplied air respirator.

I asked him about that and he was completely set up with a great mask/respirator setup
and paint suit. I remember reading a painting post years ago by Bob Melusky aka Bob in Ct. and the importance of a proper respirator especially when using hardener was discussed. It was a good post.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the 4 position charge and light switch, if you need them.
If you don't have the switch and need to buy one, it looks like this one.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gel ... ht_001.htm

If you need to buy one, Brillman at the bottom of the page has them.
Type in the number from the Cub parts manual, 1994019 at Brillman's and it shows the switch.


Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the governor.
Since it is apart, check the pins holding the weights on, and the holes in the weights for the pins, they can wear, and be loose, then the governor works slower than it should.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-18.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-19.jpg

Below is a page showing the fan. Part number 8 must be put in the right direction, it is for the fan oiling system. If it is put in the wrong way, the fan shaft won't get oil.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-05.jpg

[Jim Becker]

I asked him about that and he was completely set up with a great mask/respirator setup
and paint suit. I remember reading a painting post years ago by Bob Melusky aka Bob in Ct. and the importance of a proper respirator especially when using hardener was discussed. It was a good post.

I take this answer as NO, you didn't school him on supplied air. I'm not sure which of Bob's posts you are recalling. But here is a quote from one of them: "a regular respirator will kill you slowly with false confidence ".

You need to make sure he understands the importance of a supplied air system. If the young man is only 18 or 19, he may have the opportunity to accumulate 50 or 60 years of damage, if he lasts that long. I suggest you (and he) take a look at this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39149

[Gary S.]

My mom came down with pulmonary fibrosis- horrible way to go.They still don't even know what causes it. With that I decided that a HobbyAir 2 system at $500 wasn't all that expensive,dad spent way more on just one trip to Mayo. I have the hooded model since if your just sanding you don't need to be fully covered,you just need fresh air. Then when you go to paint you put on the hood. It is my understanding that with hardener mixed in with paint is,that if you smell paint you are breathing in the fumes of the hardener as well. This applies even hours later as the paint dries- so no hanging parts in the basement to cure either. I Imron painted a 20 foot boat in my garage in August and found you have to connect all 80 feet of hose to keep air temp down. I left one coil of hose,40 ft,and placed it in a wash tub of water with another full wash tub on top of that to keep the coil submerged. Worked so good at removing heat that the water actually got hot and needed to be changed several times during the job.

[k hutchins]

Here is the best diagram l found for making a new wire harness. I've made two for my '48s in the past 8 months. I used #10 wire for the main leads, and #12 for the lights and short jumper on the ammeter and generator.

Hope it helps

P.S. If you're replacing the battery cable make sure you use at least #2, but l went the easy route and got my from Steiner, premade.