Cylinders

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KimCub
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Joined: Sun Nov 08, 2020 2:31 pm
Zip Code: 22408
Tractors Owned: 1957, 1959 and 1962 Cubs

Cylinders

Postby KimCub » Thu Nov 26, 2020 8:37 pm

My 1957 cub - 6 volt positive with pertronix electronic ignition - we are trying to set the timing and found there is no air movement at cylinder 1. So we checked cylinder 2 and we feel the air pull then push. Then we tried 3 and 4 and nothing at those cylinders either. What are recommendations of what to do next. We sprayed PB blaster and left it over night to try tomorrow, but need suggestions if it wasn’t the simple fix.

tst
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Re: Cylinders

Postby tst » Thu Nov 26, 2020 8:50 pm

do a compression check, perhaps valves stuck open

KimCub
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Tractors Owned: 1957, 1959 and 1962 Cubs

Re: Cylinders

Postby KimCub » Thu Nov 26, 2020 8:55 pm

Thanks
My husband says he already pulled out his compression tester to be ready in the morning

inairam
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Re: Cylinders

Postby inairam » Fri Nov 27, 2020 8:32 am

[quote="KimCub" We sprayed PB blaster and left it over night to try tomorrow,[/quote]

Where did you spray it?

There is a side cover for the valves about 2" x 8" on the carb side of the engine. If the values are stuck open on 1, 3 & 4 you will see that they are not moving if you remove the plate.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!

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Glen
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Re: Cylinders

Postby Glen » Fri Nov 27, 2020 6:57 pm

Hi,
If you remove the valve cover and find stuck open valves, use penetrating oil on the bottom end of the valve stems, they are inside the valve springs.
Pull down on the lower end of the springs to pull the valve down.
The engine has to be turned so the camshaft is not holding the valve open, so the valve lifters should be down.
Work the valve up and down many times, to loosen it up, keep applying penetrating oil.
If you get it to work normally, closing by itself when it should, put oil on the valve stem.

You can reach the top of the valves through the spark plug holes, with a screwdriver, if needed, to push down on the valves. The valves are to the side of the spark plug holes. Look in with a light and you can see them.

After getting all the valves to work right, you should check the valve clearance.
The clearance is manually adjusted using a feeler gauge.
If nobody checks, or sets them, they can have the wrong clearance.
Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing how to adjust the valve clearance.
Each valve lifter has to be fully down to check the clearance. You have to turn the engine some to check them all, the valves can't all be closed at the same time. :)

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2055.jpg

Eugene
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Re: Cylinders

Postby Eugene » Fri Nov 27, 2020 8:04 pm

Glen wrote:If you remove the valve cover and find stuck open valves, use penetrating oil on the bottom end of the valve stems, they are inside the valve springs.
Pull down on the lower end of the springs to pull the valve down.
The engine has to be turned so the camshaft is not holding the valve open, so the valve lifters should be down.
Work the valve up and down many times, to loosen it up, keep applying penetrating oil.
If you get it to work normally, closing by itself when it should, put oil on the valve stem.

You can reach the top of the valves through the spark plug holes, with a screwdriver, if needed, to push down on the valves. The valves are to the side of the spark plug holes. Look in with a light and you can see them.
Hood/gas tank off, spark plugs out.

While spraying the valve stems from the valve cover area, spray under each stuck valve head. Spray can of solvent and straw bent to spray under the valve head towards the valve stem.
I have an excuse. CRS.


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