Just bought a 55 Cub

[FoundtheLight1]

Hey all, I just got a 55 cub and it needs a lot of work. I'll be starting by getting a 6v battery and fixing the touch control system (which appears to have leaked out.) Just to confirm, on the battery, I need to hook the positive to the frame and the ground to the wire that goes to the starter?

Have a great weekend!

[Bob McCarty]

Welcome to the Forum. You are correct about the battery. Cubs are 6V positive ground unless someone has changed them over to 12 V. Check your oil level, if it's high, you may need to just replace the shaft o-ring on the touch control pump. You can refill the TC, cycle it to remove air, and see if it functions. You probably need to prime the oil pump if the Cub has been sitting for a while.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1955 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1955 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
They have said on here that IH didn't make a new manual every year.

The Touch Control fluid mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There are 2 pages gone in the lube section, pages 19 and 20.
Below are pages from the manual made after this one with the missing info.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2026.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2027.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2029.jpg

[FoundtheLight1]

Welcome to the Forum. You are correct about the battery. Cubs are 6V positive ground unless someone has changed them over to 12 V. Check your oil level, if it's high, you may need to just replace the shaft o-ring on the touch control pump. You can refill the TC, cycle it to remove air, and see if it functions. You probably need to prime the oil pump if the Cub has been sitting for a while.

Thanks Bob for your advice! I jumped it from my truck with the positive on the starter and after a few sparks I got to thinking I might need to join a group where I can learn from you all. Have a great Sunday.

[FoundtheLight1]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1955 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

It shows the electrical system that a 1955 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.
They have said on here that IH didn't make a new manual every year.

The Touch Control fluid mentioned in the manual for the Touch Control, was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.
There are other brands, be sure it works with IH hydraulic systems before buying one.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

The air cleaner is an oil bath air cleaner. Dirt that is sucked in settles to the bottom of the oil cup. It should have clean, light motor oil in the oil cup to work right.

There are 2 pages gone in the lube section, pages 19 and 20.
Below are pages from the manual made after this one with the missing info.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2026.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2027.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2029.jpg

Thanks Glen for sharing all those links. The forum said I need to make 2 posts before I could view those links. So here's to the first post. I'll check all those fluids. Do you have a recommendation on which oils to use for the engine, trans, and finals? I see there are many opinions on these things. My tractor appears to have never been rebuilt so I'm thinking a heavier oil would be best.

[Glen]

Hi,
The operator's manual tells what weight of oils to use, on page 17, but there are no multi weight oils in the 1955 operator's manual.
You can use motor oils that are made nowadays.
I would avoid thin motor oils, the engines are not new, and thin oil can result in low oil pressure.
Some people on here use 15W-40 oil, it gives better oil pressure than thin oil.

You might want a little thinner oil if you are going to use the Cub in cold Winter temperatures.

The transmission, final drives, and steering gear use 80W-90wt gear oil.
Hy-Tran fluid was used in the trans and final drives beginning in the later 1950's, the newer manuals say.

If the engine has not been run for some time, it is a good idea to prime the engine oil pump.
The pump can lose it's prime sitting, and sometimes it won't suck up oil again, then there is no oil pressure.
Below is a post I made about priming the oil pump, it is part way down the page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60

[FoundtheLight1]

So I got the Battery installed, changed the oil and filter, lubed everything I could find in the manual and she is running really good. She does act a little flooded when she starts so I have to keep taking the intake line off the carb to let the extra fuel out.
The touch control is still broken. It was pretty much out of fluid, so I added 2 quarts and still after running it and putting the lever back and forth nothing happens. I kept the cap off to relieve the pressure, then installed it. The linkage all seems to move fine, but I'm not getting anything. Any ideas? Is there a filter or some sort of part that can stick up in there?

[Dale Finch]

Be advised, that without fluid, there is no lubrication for the hydraulic pump and it can be damaged.

But then, the pump COULD be your problem. It is not rare for the nut that holds the pump drive gear on to come loose, allowing the gear to fall into the oil pan...thus no fluid circulation.

You can remove the pump by disconnecting the hydraulic manifold at both ends, and removing the upper left and lower right bolts on the hydraulic pump, to see if the gear is still on.

[Glen]

Hi,
A few people have said on here that there were times the fluid won't go through the Touch Control tubes after filling it, if the system was empty. Usually it will, but not on every Cub, evidently.
So their tubes were having an air lock. I don't know if yours are, but you could try this below.

With the engine off, remove the filler plug on the unit first, then try loosening the 2 bolts that hold the end of the tubes onto the pump. It is a metal block welded onto the tubes.
There are 2, o rings there, gently pry the block away from the pump slightly, and see if fluid will run out.
The tubes are stiff, but it should move slightly.
If fluid will run out, it may start working when you tighten the 2 bolts again.

The strainer in the Touch Control can't be reached with the unit assembled. It slides out the head end of the unit, which is at the rear, by the dash. It can be seen, or cleaned, removing the bottom cover, but not removed that way.

It sounds like the carburetor needle and seat could have dirt in them, or the float level is wrong, and needs setting, or the needle and seat need replacing.
The carb may need cleaning inside also.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of what the pump looks like where the tubes go.

[FoundtheLight1]

Thanks guys, I drained the hydro system today and after disconnecting the tubes and pump I found the gear had fallen off. The nut and $40 lock washer and fallen down in the oil pan. I went to my farm supply store and bought a grade 5, 3/8-24 nut and a regular washer (I ordered a $40 dollar lock washer too just in case) then I went home cleaned those treads real good and put some blue thread lock on there and she’s running like a top! I put the cultivators and plow on and turned my garden over. Today is my wife’s birthday so she was happy to get the garden done. Total project took less then an hour to repair the pump. I’ll get a full kit this winter and plan to replace all the gaskets etc.
I’ve included a few photos of my adventure. I’m pretty happy since I got this on Saturday and (Sunday is a day of rest for me) then within two days with a couple of hours a day I got the job done. My girl is loving “daddy’s new tractor”
Have a great night.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you got the Touch Control to work.
Nice to see pics of you, daughter, and the Cub.

Here is info if you need it, about the IH carburetor, you said yours drips, or leaks.
You didn't say if it has an IH carb, a 1955 Cub came with one, but some people changed to a Zenith, which IH used on Cubs beginning during 1975.
People have said on here that their carburetor didn't work right until they set the float level exactly.

Here is info for setting the float level and float drop for the IH carb.
You have to take the carb apart to set the float height, and float drop.

Clean the outside of it first, it helps keep dirt out of the inside.
When taking it apart, pull the 2 halves of the carb straight apart several inches, there is a small idle tube that screws into the top half of the carb, it can break if you twist it, or don't pull the 2 halves straight apart.
Use carb cleaner spray inside the carb, or put it in a carb cleaner soak, if you have that.
All the passages need to be open and clean.
Blow them out with compressed air, and be sure they are open. Use your safety goggles when using the air.
The needle and seat could have dirt in it, making it not seal. Remove the float and the needle and check for dirt, clean the needle and seat.

Check the float, it should look in good condition, not bent or corroded, and should feel light. It has to have no gas inside it, or it will not float right. Shake it gently while it is off, and feel if there is gas in it. If it is good, it can be used again. If not, replace it with a new float.
TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has a new float.
Assemble the needle and float again.
The tab on the float arm has to face up.
Sometimes the float is upside down.
Put it in the right way, if it was upside down.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing setting the float height.
The IH carb is in the upper pics on the page, the Zenith carb in the lower pics.
To set the float level, turn the top half of the carb upside down, like the pic of the Zenith carb, in the lower right of the page.
The gasket between the halves has to be off, when measuring the float level of the IH carb.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 002-09.jpg

Bob McCarty converted the measurements to use a dial caliper, it is easier.
The float level is 1.4"
The float drop is 1.6"

Bend the float arm to change the float height, not where it is attached to the float.

Turn the top half right side up to set the float drop.
Bend the stop in or out to change the float drop.

The needle and seat could be wornout, and don't seal, then the carb can drip on the ground when the Cub is sitting.
If it doesn't work right after setting the float height and drop, the needle and seat might need replacing, if it floods, or drips.
The IH carb has a small screen where the gas line attaches to the carb, be sure it is clean.
Tighten everything on the carb gently, the IH carb is soft metal, and threads can strip.

The carb top can warp if the screws are tightened too much.
Check the gasket surface with a straight edge when it is apart. They can bend over the float bowl area. People on here have straightened the tops.
TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has a new needle and seat, and other carb parts.

Cubs have a manual choke, you have to use the right amount of choke when the engine is cold, until it warms up, so it runs good.

Below is a pic of an IH carb float from TM Tractor, showing the stop tab for the float drop facing up.

[FoundtheLight1]

Thanks Glen, mine is an IH. I’ll take that apart, probably this weekend.

-Dan

[Stanton]

Welcome to the Forum! Looks like Glen has been giving helpful advice (he's known for that).

Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:

• Welcome Wagon
• How to Upload Pictures to a Post
• Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
• Using the Forum

Sounds like you already have an Owner's Manual, but now that you’ve logged your 2nd post, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:

• From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
• You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
• If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.

You'll be able to download any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.

We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084

Might also enjoy reading through this thread (even though yours is up and running, it still may be a checklist for things you haven't thought of): What to do with a Cub you just brought home

There are a lot of good threads dealing with Cub repair and maintenance in the How To Forum. Located here: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=11 Be sure to check out Lurker Carl's threads on carbs in the How To Forum--Fuel section. Good stuff.

Thanks for posting pictures of your Cub, you and daughter. We like to see that sort of thing.

Remember:
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.

Glad you joined us.