Drawbar bolt holes

[Rusty red]

I have removed both finals on one of my cubs to replace all of the seals and gaskets. Upon removal of the left final I noticed that the upper 2 drawbar bolt holes go all the way through. I havent disassembled the left side yet but looking from the outside nothing looks broke and doesn't appear to have repair threads. Has anyone else seen this?
My other cub is out at the farm so I won't get to look at it to compare until the weekend

[Glen]

Hi,
If you are talking about the 5/8" implement attaching holes in the final drive, all of them I have seen have a bottom to the holes.
Sometimes people seem to use too long a bolt, and break the bottom of the hole.

If the hole has a broken bottom, oil will probably run out during use.

[Stevetractor]

I have a tractor like that sort of. The bolt holes were wore bad and the casting edge broken. Took them to a machine shop. They bored straight through, then threaded the holes 7/8 fine. Then took grade 8 rod in lathe and threaded fine, then bored out center to the depth the original holes were and threaded 5/8 course. The inserts were then threaded into casting flush with the inside of casting using a special type of locktite. 12 years later, no issues at all. One of the holes, the casting was broke away some and they built that up with bronze rods to make it look original, no issues either. Hope this helps.

[Gary Dotson]

Those are supposed to be blind holes. Probably, someone has installed longer bolts, at some time, which punched out the bottom of the hole. It should still work O.K. but you will have to make certain there is always a bolt plugging the holes and use a little sealant on the threads. You may find the remains of those hole bottoms in the pan.

[MiCarl]

Since it's apart I'd be real tempted to plug it from the back with a short bolt, green loctite, and grind the head off.

[Jim Becker]

Since it's apart I'd be real tempted to plug it from the back with a short bolt, green loctite, and grind the head off.

That might not leave enough depth in the remaining hole.

[Bob McCarty]

A metal snap in panel plug if there is room?? https://www.mcmaster.com/9563K24/
Measure the length you have from outside to inside and let us know what that is.

[ajhbike]

wouldn't the upper 2 holes be above the fill level?

[Don McCombs]

Yes. But, the drawbar brackets bolt to the lower holes.

[Clemsonfor]

wouldn't the upper 2 holes be above the fill level?

Yes, but I wouldn't want open hold to my gear oil for dirt to be thrown into the holes or dirt daubers to pack it full of crap.

[Clemsonfor]

Since it's apart I'd be real tempted to plug it from the back with a short bolt, green loctite, and grind the head off.

That might not leave enough depth in the remaining hole.

Maybe not if you cut the bolt to only a few threads and then locktite it in and grind the head off. JB weld over the spot if you wanted too make sure that the bolt piece didn't fall out.

[Rusty red]

I apologize for calling them a drawbar bolt holes. They are the upper two holes.
I plan on putting pipe dope on the bolts to seal them. I was curious if anyone else had seen this.
I think my kub klipper mower uses the front upper bolts.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I have one that has that problem, I just used a good grade pipe dope, and it lasted for numerous implement changes before the oil seeped out and I needed to do it again. After a couple times it lasted for years.

[Jim Becker]

I apologize for calling them a drawbar bolt holes. They are the upper two holes.
I plan on putting pipe dope on the bolts to seal them. I was curious if anyone else had seen this.
I think my kub klipper mower uses the front upper bolts.

Doesn't matter which holes. It is the same story. Pipe dope on the bolt will be fine. Just remember to put the bolt back in when you take the mower off.