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Just picked up a 1974

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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Clemsonfor
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 1118
Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:14 pm
Zip Code: 29848
Tractors Owned: Yanmar YM2000
Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Greenwood County SC

Re: Just picked up a 1974

Postby Clemsonfor » Sun Sep 26, 2021 7:31 am

Jim Becker wrote:For Cub spark plugs, I normally use the box end of a combination wrench.

I was going to say the same thing. With the hood off this should be even easier.

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Clemsonfor
501 Club
501 Club
Posts: 1118
Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2019 5:14 pm
Zip Code: 29848
Tractors Owned: Yanmar YM2000
Yanmar YM186 (non running)
1952 Farmall Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Greenwood County SC

Re: Just picked up a 1974

Postby Clemsonfor » Sun Sep 26, 2021 7:39 am

Crimson Tim wrote:I thought about that, but my box end wrench set doesn’t quite go that big…. But for some reason reading your note reminded me I have a big set of ratcheting box ends that go up to 1 1/2” for keel bolts. Surely, there would be a 7/8” wrench in that set. I don’t have occasion to use them much, so forgot about them, but yes, they should do just fine! Thanks for reminding me.

When I reinstall the plugs, what torque value am I shooting for?

Edit: that works. Because these ratchet, they are not as low profile as standard box end wrenches, but I could still get enough solid contact to break loose #4. And then tighten it again, because it is still drizzling and I don’t want water getting in there. I’ll see what I can sort out in the daylight tomorrow.
Sometimes it really stinks not having a garage or workshop in which to work under cover….

I can't remember do these have the crush washer? Its usually untill the washer hits then 3/4 of a turn. Ones that the washer is already crushed on its basically snug and then just a little more. I have never used a torque wrench on any spark plugs personally.

Gary Dotson
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 5618
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 6:20 am
Zip Code: 43358
Tractors Owned: 48 Cub Diesel (Cubota)
53 Cockshutt 20 restored (Shooter)
52 Cockshutt 20 unrestored
47 Leader "B" (Herckie)
49 Leader "D" (Princess)
49 Leader "D" very rough
48 Leader "D" unrestored
Kubota B6200E
Kubota B6200HST
Kubota B8200HST-D
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH West Mansfield

Re: Just picked up a 1974

Postby Gary Dotson » Sun Sep 26, 2021 8:02 am

I don’t generally use a torque wrench on spark plugs, either, but it can have an effect on the spark plug heat range. In our testing of early quad 4 engines, it was stressed on us the importantance of proper torque so, yes we used a torque wrench on those. I doubt it would be a major change but we had to follow instructions carefully. A little leakage around the seal of a Cub spark plug is pretty common and nothing to get excited about.

Crimson Tim
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 603
Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:09 pm
Zip Code: 32736
Tractors Owned: The crew:
"John", 1952 Cub
"Paul", 1951 Cub
"George", 1958 LoBoy Cub with Wagner 45 Loader
"Ringo", 1977 Cub

So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story.
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Just picked up a 1974

Postby Crimson Tim » Sun Sep 26, 2021 9:32 am

Not yet, no. I know that’s a logical thing to look for if I continue to have starting or power issues, but I haven’t picked up a compression tester, yet. I was heartened last week when I got a couple putt-putt-putts after changing ignition components, even knowing I was losing compression around the poorly sealing plugs. It gave me hope that I wasn’t also losing *too* much compression at rings or valves. Maybe.

Anyway, I need to chase down this electrical gremlin again. It’s definitely not going to start without spark. The only things I touched between last week with spark and this week with no spark was to swap out the plugs themselves.

Crimson Tim
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 603
Joined: Wed Feb 19, 2014 1:09 pm
Zip Code: 32736
Tractors Owned: The crew:
"John", 1952 Cub
"Paul", 1951 Cub
"George", 1958 LoBoy Cub with Wagner 45 Loader
"Ringo", 1977 Cub

So far, Paul and Ringo have arrived. John and George were supposed to follow ages ago, but apparently have gone awol. Long story.
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Just picked up a 19

Postby Crimson Tim » Sun Sep 26, 2021 4:08 pm

Ok, I poked around with the points again and gave it another go.
With a little starting fluid to kick it off, I got it to run! After a few minutes to sort itself out, it was even relatively smooth.
Loud, though, since the clamp to hold the exhaust pipe onto the elbow is missing.

The governor arm is seized where the rod from the throttle quadrant is attached. So far, no movement whatsoever. The arm has already been broken and “fixed”. The cross shaft and link to the carb is free, but I doubt the governor is going to respond correctly, as I can basically set the throttle plate where I want it by hand.

The PO warned me the rear main seal was leaking. Boy, he wasn’t kidding! It’s a steady drip-drip-drip-drip-drip when running, followed by a spatter when the engine stops.

Edit: nope. No response at all from the governor to any load whatsoever.

It will start consistently with a little hit of starting fluid, but doesn’t seem to want to start at all without it.
This is with the known good carb and pony tank system off the running Cub.

Time to check timing and compression next, I suppose. Will continue to try to free up the governor arm and replace it and the spring. Since the frozen governor arm links to the throttle lever, but the linkage between the governor and carb is free, doesn’t the lack of response from the governor then imply some internal issue with the governor? Otherwise, it seems like I should be missing the opportunity to set the idle speed, but whatever idle speed the governor arm is frozen at, it should be capable of maintaining? Not so.

Second edit: after a couple of almost-starts, I still didn’t see any oil pressure show up on the gauge-. The oil filter gasket still seemed tight, but I didn’t want to proceed any further since oil pressure didn’t show up on its own by this time. I did get a couple of whacks on a screwdriver under the edge of the oil filter cap and managed to get it loosened without damaging the gasket. I primed the oil pump through the usual hole in the oil filter housing prior to getting it running. Once I did get it running a few minutes later, oil pressure was great. In the middle of the gauge. So, even if it is inconvenient, prime the oil pump!


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