Time for TLC on Workhorse

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k hutchins
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Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby k hutchins » Wed Nov 25, 2020 7:38 pm

Glen
I only heard a slight knocking on start up that would stop once the pressure came up on the oil. It wasn't continous while mowing for 4 hrs. I'll plastigauge with the new bearings just to satisfy my own curiosity as to what the ware is between new and old.
I'm also replacing the piston arm bearings just to hedge my bets even though plastigauge on them was within tolerences.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

k hutchins
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Posts: 631
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby k hutchins » Sun Nov 29, 2020 9:13 am

Just an update.
Waiting on parts before l can start reassembly, so l spent a couple hours cleaning and dbl ckecking things.
I adjusted the valve gaps to .015 (they were a bit tight) and cleaned up the head area and seats. Checked cylinder walls for scoring, and cleaned the built up carbon off the tops.
20201128_194056.jpg

20201128_194006.jpg

20201128_193728.jpg
There was a lot of built up crud on the governor rocker arm (1/8") where it contacts the set bolt. Hopefully cleaning it off helps and not hurts setting.
20201128_193649.jpg


Over all it's the cleanest this engine has been in 72 years. Kerosene and a nylon brush to save as much original paint as l could. I'm thinking of clear coating it just to prevent surface rust. Opinions?
It will never be stored outside, but there is condensation to consider from unheated garage or shed. Now that l've removed all of the "protective" oil and gunk, rust is a possibility.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

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ricky racer
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Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby ricky racer » Sun Nov 29, 2020 12:49 pm

Why not just paint the engine? The last Cub I rebuilt I painted the engine that I rebuilt without painting the rest of the tractor. It didn't look too bad.

Click on the picture below:

Cub with painted Engine.jpg


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1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub

Gary Dotson
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Kubota B6200E
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Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Gary Dotson » Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:17 am

I noticed in your pics. that you have the pot metal oil filter cap and that it is collapsed a good bit in the middle. You may not have a problem with it now but you're going to at some point. I suggest you find a steel cap and replace it, while you're working on it. New ones are available but pricey, used ones are readily available from many sources.

Bob McCarty
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Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Bob McCarty » Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:03 am

Gary Dotson wrote:I noticed in your pics. that you have the pot metal oil filter cap and that it is collapsed a good bit in the middle.


I have flattened several in my press without cracking the pot metal. They have sealed okay. Maybe I'm just lucky.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

k hutchins
10+ Years
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Posts: 631
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby k hutchins » Mon Nov 30, 2020 12:48 pm

Gary and Bob, funny you should mention it. I did a search a couple days ago because l thought l remembered a post someone did about straightening them. I didn't find anything though. It's been that way as long as l can remember, and yes it has leaked from time to time.
Bob, do you use a gig or just flat plates? Is there a way to do it manually? I'm not interested in getting it back to original, but if it could be reversed just a little, it might help.

Ricky, l do plan on paiting the hood, and possibly at least throwing some red primer on the oil pan. I'm kind of on a time crunch here and don't want to do any more disassembly or prep. I'd rather leave it than do a half hearted job. Just thinking about potential rust prevention now that l've cleaned off it's "protective covering" of oil, antifreeze, and crud.

Thanks for the in put. All is welcome.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

Bob McCarty
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Location: CO, Longmont

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Bob McCarty » Mon Nov 30, 2020 3:00 pm

The end of my press was large enough to cover most of the lid. I think it would be hard to do it manually and keep from distorting it.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

Gary Dotson
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Tractors Owned: 48 Cub Diesel (Cubota)
53 Cockshutt 20 restored (Shooter)
52 Cockshutt 20 unrestored
47 Leader "B" (Herckie)
49 Leader "D" (Princess)
49 Leader "D" very rough
48 Leader "D" unrestored
Kubota B6200E
Kubota B6200HST
Kubota B8200HST-D
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH West Mansfield

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Gary Dotson » Tue Dec 01, 2020 9:03 am

I tried straightening a couple, both cracked! Bob, you always were the lucky kind!

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Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Dec 01, 2020 10:22 am

Whether those caps leak or not can be changed by rotating them. Ideally, the top of the filter housing would be perfectly centered over the threaded hole for the big bolt. The bolt would be perfectly straight. The cap would have perfect radial symmetry, as would the washer. In practice, probably none of that is true for any tractor. It helps to rotate the cap so the irregularities compensate for each other. This is so for both cap styles.

1) If it wasn't leaking before you took it off, put it back where you found it. The existing paint, scratches etc. should make it obvious where it was. If it doesn't have sufficient war wounds, put a reference mark on before you take it off. It doesn't have to be permanent. A pencil line will do. Actually, the temporary mark is preferred as the best fit is likely to change the next time you over torque it!

2) If it leaks in the old position, rotate it to minimize the chance of it leaking. As you put the bolt in and it begins to contact the lid, rotate the lid for the loosest fit. Then bring the bolt in a little more and fine tune the rotation of the lid again. Do that a few times until you can't rotate the lid. Then tighten the bolt. This doesn't guarantee no leak, but it improves your odds. It took longer to type this than it does to do it.

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Don McCombs
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Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Don McCombs » Tue Dec 01, 2020 10:59 am

In addition to Jim's suggestions, another thing to consider is the cover gasket. Some of the gaskets supplied with aftermarket filters are flimsy rubber ones. If not kept perfectly free of oil and centered during installation, they can slip and buckle. This enhances the chance of a leak. I prefer the fairly rigid gasket sold by TM Tractor Parts. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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k hutchins
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 631
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby k hutchins » Tue Dec 01, 2020 12:51 pm

Jim and Don
Thanks for the tips. It hasn't had a major leak of any kind since l changed out a thin hard gasket that came with a filter. I've had other gaskets that come with filters and one was fairly substantial rubber. I've reused it through several filter changes. The cap has been indented for almost as long as l can remember. Noticed it years ago and try not to over tighten.
Now that it's clean around it, it'll be easier to spot leaks.

Jim l feel your pain. I do most of my online typing with one thumb on a tablet lol.
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

Clemsonfor
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Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Clemsonfor » Tue Dec 01, 2020 4:15 pm

If you don't want to paint it try linseed oil or fluid film or something similar. It will keep the metal coated to prevent rust. Other than the color it will take a lot to rust a block out, other parts maybe not as much to damage them

k hutchins
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 631
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 5:48 pm
Zip Code: 48843
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
193 plow
1948 snow/grading blade
Woods 59 C3
Cub 144 cultivator
Cub 22 mower
Cub 172 one row planter
Original manuals for all the above
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby k hutchins » Tue Dec 01, 2020 8:30 pm

Clemsonfor
I've heard of the linseed oil thing before. Doesn't it become a "dust/dirt collector"? Also, since it's the engine block, what about smoking or burning off?
Why is there never enough time to do the job right, but always enough time to do it over. :?:

Bill
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Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Bill » Wed Dec 02, 2020 9:23 am

Don McCombs wrote:In addition to Jim's suggestions, another thing to consider is the cover gasket. Some of the gaskets supplied with aftermarket filters are flimsy rubber ones. If not kept perfectly free of oil and centered during installation, they can slip and buckle. This enhances the chance of a leak. I prefer the fairly rigid gasket sold by TM Tractor Parts. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm

I had gaskets problems like you years ago. Bought a 3 pack from Ih, most likely the same as Don's. Have not had any issues since.
Bill

Clemsonfor
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1952 Farmall Cub
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Location: Greenwood County SC

Re: Time for TLC on Workhorse

Postby Clemsonfor » Wed Dec 02, 2020 2:36 pm

k hutchins wrote:Clemsonfor
I've heard of the linseed oil thing before. Doesn't it become a "dust/dirt collector"? Also, since it's the engine block, what about smoking or burning off?

Yes it will collect dirt. If it looks too dirty I we time you can spray it down with superclea. And rinse it off and reapply. As for burning off I doubt the engine block gets hot enough to burn per say. It may volitize at a faster rate making reapplication necessary, but I really don't know. On your exhaust, sure it will burn off though.


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