Time for TLC on Workhorse

[k hutchins]

Glen
I only heard a slight knocking on start up that would stop once the pressure came up on the oil. It wasn't continous while mowing for 4 hrs. I'll plastigauge with the new bearings just to satisfy my own curiosity as to what the ware is between new and old.
I'm also replacing the piston arm bearings just to hedge my bets even though plastigauge on them was within tolerences.

[k hutchins]

Just an update.
Waiting on parts before l can start reassembly, so l spent a couple hours cleaning and dbl ckecking things.
I adjusted the valve gaps to .015 (they were a bit tight) and cleaned up the head area and seats. Checked cylinder walls for scoring, and cleaned the built up carbon off the tops.

There was a lot of built up crud on the governor rocker arm (1/8") where it contacts the set bolt. Hopefully cleaning it off helps and not hurts setting.

Over all it's the cleanest this engine has been in 72 years. Kerosene and a nylon brush to save as much original paint as l could. I'm thinking of clear coating it just to prevent surface rust. Opinions?
It will never be stored outside, but there is condensation to consider from unheated garage or shed. Now that l've removed all of the "protective" oil and gunk, rust is a possibility.

[ricky racer]

Why not just paint the engine? The last Cub I rebuilt I painted the engine that I rebuilt without painting the rest of the tractor. It didn't look too bad.

Click on the picture below:

[Gary Dotson]

I noticed in your pics. that you have the pot metal oil filter cap and that it is collapsed a good bit in the middle. You may not have a problem with it now but you're going to at some point. I suggest you find a steel cap and replace it, while you're working on it. New ones are available but pricey, used ones are readily available from many sources.

[Bob McCarty]

I noticed in your pics. that you have the pot metal oil filter cap and that it is collapsed a good bit in the middle.

I have flattened several in my press without cracking the pot metal. They have sealed okay. Maybe I'm just lucky.

[k hutchins]

Gary and Bob, funny you should mention it. I did a search a couple days ago because l thought l remembered a post someone did about straightening them. I didn't find anything though. It's been that way as long as l can remember, and yes it has leaked from time to time.
Bob, do you use a gig or just flat plates? Is there a way to do it manually? I'm not interested in getting it back to original, but if it could be reversed just a little, it might help.

Ricky, l do plan on paiting the hood, and possibly at least throwing some red primer on the oil pan. I'm kind of on a time crunch here and don't want to do any more disassembly or prep. I'd rather leave it than do a half hearted job. Just thinking about potential rust prevention now that l've cleaned off it's "protective covering" of oil, antifreeze, and crud.

Thanks for the in put. All is welcome.

[Bob McCarty]

The end of my press was large enough to cover most of the lid. I think it would be hard to do it manually and keep from distorting it.

[Gary Dotson]

I tried straightening a couple, both cracked! Bob, you always were the lucky kind!

[Jim Becker]

Whether those caps leak or not can be changed by rotating them. Ideally, the top of the filter housing would be perfectly centered over the threaded hole for the big bolt. The bolt would be perfectly straight. The cap would have perfect radial symmetry, as would the washer. In practice, probably none of that is true for any tractor. It helps to rotate the cap so the irregularities compensate for each other. This is so for both cap styles.

1) If it wasn't leaking before you took it off, put it back where you found it. The existing paint, scratches etc. should make it obvious where it was. If it doesn't have sufficient war wounds, put a reference mark on before you take it off. It doesn't have to be permanent. A pencil line will do. Actually, the temporary mark is preferred as the best fit is likely to change the next time you over torque it!

2) If it leaks in the old position, rotate it to minimize the chance of it leaking. As you put the bolt in and it begins to contact the lid, rotate the lid for the loosest fit. Then bring the bolt in a little more and fine tune the rotation of the lid again. Do that a few times until you can't rotate the lid. Then tighten the bolt. This doesn't guarantee no leak, but it improves your odds. It took longer to type this than it does to do it.

[Don McCombs]

In addition to Jim's suggestions, another thing to consider is the cover gasket. Some of the gaskets supplied with aftermarket filters are flimsy rubber ones. If not kept perfectly free of oil and centered during installation, they can slip and buckle. This enhances the chance of a leak. I prefer the fairly rigid gasket sold by TM Tractor Parts. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm

[k hutchins]

Jim and Don
Thanks for the tips. It hasn't had a major leak of any kind since l changed out a thin hard gasket that came with a filter. I've had other gaskets that come with filters and one was fairly substantial rubber. I've reused it through several filter changes. The cap has been indented for almost as long as l can remember. Noticed it years ago and try not to over tighten.
Now that it's clean around it, it'll be easier to spot leaks.

Jim l feel your pain. I do most of my online typing with one thumb on a tablet lol.

[Clemsonfor]

If you don't want to paint it try linseed oil or fluid film or something similar. It will keep the metal coated to prevent rust. Other than the color it will take a lot to rust a block out, other parts maybe not as much to damage them

[k hutchins]

Clemsonfor
I've heard of the linseed oil thing before. Doesn't it become a "dust/dirt collector"? Also, since it's the engine block, what about smoking or burning off?

[Bill]

In addition to Jim's suggestions, another thing to consider is the cover gasket. Some of the gaskets supplied with aftermarket filters are flimsy rubber ones. If not kept perfectly free of oil and centered during installation, they can slip and buckle. This enhances the chance of a leak. I prefer the fairly rigid gasket sold by TM Tractor Parts. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/136fp.htm

I had gaskets problems like you years ago. Bought a 3 pack from Ih, most likely the same as Don's. Have not had any issues since.
Bill

[Clemsonfor]

Clemsonfor
I've heard of the linseed oil thing before. Doesn't it become a "dust/dirt collector"? Also, since it's the engine block, what about smoking or burning off?

Yes it will collect dirt. If it looks too dirty I we time you can spray it down with superclea. And rinse it off and reapply. As for burning off I doubt the engine block gets hot enough to burn per say. It may volitize at a faster rate making reapplication necessary, but I really don't know. On your exhaust, sure it will burn off though.