1961 Cub Real oil seal

[AZ Gary]

I'm new to this forum. The seal on mine is leaking so I need to replace. I have read on other forums that you can't buy the correct seal so some modifications have to be done. First problem, I have a service manual and it shows nothing on the seal replacement. I would like to get a parts breakdown or diagram of what is involved in replacing this seal. Is there any available. Thanks in advance.
Gary

[MiCarl]

Welcome!

I think this is the information you seek:
Cub Rear Main Seal Upgrade

[ScottyD'sdad]

Yup! Tim's the man for rear seals.

Ed

[Glen]

Hi,
It says Real oil seal in your post, I guess you mean rear oil seal, at the rear of the engine.

To replace it, you need to remove any implements that are on the Cub, split the Cub where the engine and clutch housing join together, and roll one part of the tractor away from the other.
Some people roll the front away, some people roll the rear away.
The part that is not rolled away has to be blocked up securely.

Don't let either part of the Cub drop when it comes off of the 2 dowel pins at the connection, it can bend the long clutch shaft, that goes to the transmission.
The 2 parts have to be at the same level as you roll one away from the other.
Then remove the clutch, and the flywheel.
The rear seal and retainer are visible then.

Inspect the throwout bearing for wear, the graphite material sticks out of a new bearing 5/16".
Some bearings are still good, if not worn, and in good condition.
Grease the grease fitting on the bearing with cheap grease, so the oil in the grease will absorb into the graphite.
Grease it until grease comes out the small hole that should be at the top of the bearing.

When putting it together, after you put the clutch on the flywheel again, is a good time to check and adjust the pressure plate finger height.
They say on here it should be 1 3/16" - 1 1/4", measured from the surface the throwout bearing touches, to the surface below the fingers.
Below are pics.
The 1st pic shows a new throwout bearing.
The 2nd pic shows where to measure the finger height. The pressure plate has to be assembled on the flywheel to measure the height, not off, like the pic is. The height of the fingers changes when bolted on the flywheel.

Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, from IH. It has lots of info.
Section 4 is about splitting the Cub.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

[Glen]

Hi,
Below are posts showing splitting stands.
Most of them bolt onto the implement attaching holes on the clutch housing, and have a wheel, then you can roll one part of the Cub away from the other.

viewtopic.php?f=144&t=22132&p=163945&hilit=splitting#p163945

viewtopic.php?f=144&t=60737

Be sure to wedge the front axle pivot before splitting the Cub. A Cub is heavier on the left side, and it can tip over if you don't wedge the front axle before splitting it.
Below is a pic of the wedges. You will need to make them from wood. Hammer them in tight. Be sure the small end is not hitting anything, that would keep them from being tight at the top and bottom.
Check the wedges some during the work, to be sure they don't loosen.

[AZ Gary]

Thanks for all the good information. I probably won't do it for a couple of weeks as I got a show to prepare for.

[AZ Gary]

To Remove the retainer for the rear engine oil seal so you have to drop the pan?

[Dale Finch]

The three oil pan bolts at the rear are screwed into the bottom of the oil seal retainer, so at the very least, those 3 must be removed.
A few things, though, to keep in mind:

1. Those 3 bolts go into the retainer, not the engine block like the rest of the oil pan bolts. The retainer metal is relatively soft, so you DO need to make sure the bolts are tight, but be careful not to strip the bolt holes. Tim (tst) checks and repairs those holes with helicoils when you get a replacement from him.

2. Though you CAN do the retainer swap without removing the oil pan, it might be tricky making sure the gasket is not damaged and reseals well. It is my opinion (take that for what it's worth!! ) that this is a good time to clean the oil pan, straighten any bends in the pan mating surface around the bolt holes, and clean everything up.

3. DO reinstall the oil pan and tighten all the oil pan bolts BEFORE you put the 2 tractor halves back together...otherwise you face trying to access those 3 difficult rear bolts, and will be using some good, colorful words!!

[Gary Dotson]

Yes, as Dale said, it can be done without removing the pan but it's best to remove it.

[tst]

replace the pan gasket, taking shortcuts will leave it with more problems, not a big job to do so