There are 2 stuck exhaust valves and here are the ports. I’ve decided to replace all the valves and guides so far. The cylinders look good. But what is everyone’s suggestions on cleaning up these ports and manifold? Dremel away until it’s cleaned?
Thanks,
Steven
Exhausting problems
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Re: Exhausting problems
I have sandblasted them out before....the manifold, that is...NOT the engine!! Just dig as much out as you can.
Last edited by Dale Finch on Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Exhausting problems
that is just carbon, it will bust right out, a sandblaster will make the manifold like new inside
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Re: Exhausting problems
Muriatic acid. Make some type of plate to seal off the engine side of the exhaust ports. Pour muriatic acid in the exhaust pipe.
Suggest doing this out doors where spils won't cause damage and using rubber/latex gloves.
Suggest doing this out doors where spils won't cause damage and using rubber/latex gloves.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Exhausting problems
Eugene wrote:Suggest doing this out doors where spils won't cause damage and using rubber/latex gloves.
And eye protection.
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
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Re: Exhausting problems
And respiratory protection.
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Re: Exhausting problems
What does the top of the block and the valve seats look like?
Edit. What do the cylinders and coolant ports in the block look like?
How far along are you on the overhaul?
Thinking, if you need to machine engine parts including the block, consider having the block boiled along with the manifold.
Again, just thinking that cleaning the manifold would be near the bottom of my engine overhaul to do list.
Edit. What do the cylinders and coolant ports in the block look like?
How far along are you on the overhaul?
Thinking, if you need to machine engine parts including the block, consider having the block boiled along with the manifold.
Again, just thinking that cleaning the manifold would be near the bottom of my engine overhaul to do list.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Exhausting problems
Not really into the overhaul. Just have the head pulled because I didn’t have any compression. The cylinders look good. There isn’t a ring at the top from wear so I think they’re good. I was wanting to avoid splitting the tractor, but if I have to that’s ok too. I haven’t ordered any parts yet. Most all the carbon in those pics cleaned up good.
Thanks,
Steven
Thanks,
Steven
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Re: Exhausting problems
Here are a couple more pics of the cylinders that may be a little better than the other one.
Steven
Steven
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Re: Exhausting problems
Hi,
Your manifold looks like it might be eaten away on the surface where it seals on the engine, it's hard to tell in the pics. Hold a straight edge on it while it is off the engine, and see if it is flat.
An engine rebuilding shop can probably make the surface flat again, if needed.
TM Tractor has a new manifold, if you have any interest. They have a new exhaust pipe also.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/ae/418fp.htm
Check the head, and top surface of the block with a straight edge too.
It looks like in the pic that the coil cover on top of the magneto is gone, I don't know if you took it off, or it is gone. It looks like the coil in the magneto is gone, but hard to see it well.
Dirt and water can get in the magneto without the cover.
If it is dirty, I would remove the plate over the ignition points, and look. Clean it out if it's dirty.
The points might need replacing anyway.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a magneto, with the coil cover.
Your manifold looks like it might be eaten away on the surface where it seals on the engine, it's hard to tell in the pics. Hold a straight edge on it while it is off the engine, and see if it is flat.
An engine rebuilding shop can probably make the surface flat again, if needed.
TM Tractor has a new manifold, if you have any interest. They have a new exhaust pipe also.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/ae/418fp.htm
Check the head, and top surface of the block with a straight edge too.
It looks like in the pic that the coil cover on top of the magneto is gone, I don't know if you took it off, or it is gone. It looks like the coil in the magneto is gone, but hard to see it well.
Dirt and water can get in the magneto without the cover.
If it is dirty, I would remove the plate over the ignition points, and look. Clean it out if it's dirty.
The points might need replacing anyway.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a magneto, with the coil cover.

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1948 Cub with Wagner Loader
Re: Exhausting problems
Thanks for the ideas on cleaning out the carbon on the block and manifold. I'll check the manifold a little closer. I'm not sure how long this has sat before I got it and have started on it.
Glen, your right about the magneto. I've already taken it off and Mr. Rick Spivey should have it in the next day or so for a little TLC.
Thanks,
Steven
Glen, your right about the magneto. I've already taken it off and Mr. Rick Spivey should have it in the next day or so for a little TLC.
Thanks,
Steven
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Re: Exhausting problems
Hi,
Below is a post I made about installing a head on a Cub engine.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102173&p=807849#p807849
It looks like in the pics that the engine has had water sitting in it, probably from rain running in the exhaust pipe.
Some of them get rusted lots at the valve heads, and valve seats.
If the valve seats are damaged by rust, or are just worn from use, they need regrinding. There are grinding tools made for the valve seats.
It tells about it, and has pics in the Cub service manual.
Engine rebuilding shops should be able to grind the seats too.
Below is the Cub service manual, if you don't have it. It has lots of info.
The engine is in section 1, I would read it.
The table of contents on page 1-01 shows the valve info.
Page 1-24 shows about grinding the valve seats.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
Below is a post I made about installing a head on a Cub engine.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102173&p=807849#p807849
It looks like in the pics that the engine has had water sitting in it, probably from rain running in the exhaust pipe.
Some of them get rusted lots at the valve heads, and valve seats.
If the valve seats are damaged by rust, or are just worn from use, they need regrinding. There are grinding tools made for the valve seats.
It tells about it, and has pics in the Cub service manual.
Engine rebuilding shops should be able to grind the seats too.
Below is the Cub service manual, if you don't have it. It has lots of info.
The engine is in section 1, I would read it.
The table of contents on page 1-01 shows the valve info.
Page 1-24 shows about grinding the valve seats.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
Last edited by Glen on Sun Sep 27, 2020 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Exhausting problems
Wow those exhaust valves are toasted. Definitely time for a top overhaul and clean up!
NJ Farmer
NJ Farmer
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Re: Exhausting problems
My thought also. It's due for a complete engine overhaul.NJ Farmer wrote:Wow those exhaust valves are toasted. Definitely time for a top overhaul and clean up!
You need to find out how much it's going cost to put the engine into excellent condition. Suggest not spending any more money on the engine until you have it disassembled and measured. From the amount of carbon build up, my guess it's due at least for rings, rod and main bearings, and machine shop work.sallen wrote:Magneto, I've already taken it off and Mr. Rick Spivey should have it in the next day or so for a little TLC.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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