Wiring around dead starter solenoid

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Bob McCarty
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Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby Bob McCarty » Mon Sep 07, 2020 8:24 pm

When I got this '76, the safety switch had already been bypassed. Today the solenoid died. Battery is fully charged, not a sound when the key is turned. I've looked at the wiring diagram, but wondered if there is an easy way to bypass the solenoid and start the tractor.
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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Mon Sep 07, 2020 8:44 pm

You can just jumper between the to biggest lugs on the relay for temporary use to get it started, but I think you can get that relay at most any auto parts store.
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Bob McCarty
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Re: Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby Bob McCarty » Mon Sep 07, 2020 8:52 pm

Thanks John, I'll try that in the morning. Today's temp was 90*, high tomorrow mid 30's. It will be nice for the Cubfest though.
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Re: Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby Crimson Tim » Mon Sep 07, 2020 9:00 pm

It might not actually be bad... could just be bad connections or bad ground. Clean ‘em up, shiny bright. But why am I telling you this? You’ve been around the forum a lot longer than I have and know this stuff backwards and forwards.
When I broke my relay, I took a jumper cable from the positive terminal on the battery *momentarily* to the positive lug on the starter, with the switch in the on position.
Expect a spark (so don’t make final contact at the battery end!), and expect it to burn into the metal some each time. So if you have to do it more than just a few times, you’ll booger up the threads or the nut or whatever you make contact with.

If you don’t already have a strong ground, you’ll have to provide one with the other jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to some bare metal on the engine someplace.

And yes, an equivalent relay was very easy and cheap to find locally as long as you don’t care if it looks a bit different. This was as of last summer or early spring or who knows when that was? What does time even mean anymore? Ahem. Bottom line, this was pretty recent, so this info should still be accurate.

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Re: Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby Eugene » Mon Sep 07, 2020 9:19 pm

Faulty ignition switch?
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby tst » Mon Sep 07, 2020 10:15 pm

Longstripe ignition switches tend to get corroded in the connector on the back of the switch, if you do need a solenoid it is a common ford one used on everything from the mid 60 to mid 90's and they are cheap, make sure you have power to the trigger wire when you turn the key

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Re: Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby BigBill » Mon Sep 14, 2020 10:06 pm

I like to install the push button starter switch. When I restore the foot/hand push button switch goes in. The key is for off and on ignition.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: Wiring around dead starter solenoid

Postby john2189 » Tue Sep 15, 2020 7:10 am

Crimson Tim wrote:It might not actually be bad... could just be bad connections or bad ground. Clean ‘em up, shiny bright. But why am I telling you this? You’ve been around the forum a lot longer than I have and know this stuff backwards and forwards.
When I broke my relay, I took a jumper cable from the positive terminal on the battery *momentarily* to the positive lug on the starter, with the switch in the on position.
Expect a spark (so don’t make final contact at the battery end!), and expect it to burn into the metal some each time. So if you have to do it more than just a few times, you’ll booger up the threads or the nut or whatever you make contact with.

If you don’t already have a strong ground, you’ll have to provide one with the other jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to some bare metal on the engine someplace.

And yes, an equivalent relay was very easy and cheap to find locally as long as you don’t care if it looks a bit different. This was as of last summer or early spring or who knows when that was? What does time even mean anymore? Ahem. Bottom line, this was pretty recent, so this info should still be accurate.


If you’re jumping to the starter or other threaded stud, most of the studs are longer than needed, so just add a nut to it and use the nut to take the burning, saving the stud and original nut.

You could also hook the positive jumper first and let the negative do the sparking and burning/melting, which wouldn’t work in this case.
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