Time to show the Cub some love

[sevy]

Hi everyone,
My cub gets two days of sickle bar mowing work every autumn to keep some old fields clear of brush, and then I use it for snow plowing all winter as needed. I also use it for spring cleanup and fall cleanup towing a trailer. Total days of use each year are not that many, but I have been living with some things that I decided to finally address now that I have a chunk of time to do it:
1- Brakes are iffy, and I know that the oil seals are leaking and the bands are soaked. When I attended a Cubfest at Cecil's a bunch of years ago, someone suggested soaking them with gas and setting them on fire in a safe location to burn the oil out of them and restore the asbestos. So, I plan on getting new seals, etc., to correct the brake issue.
2- The lever to engage the mower sometimes rattles a bit, as if it is drooping and making contact. I may as well address that while I'm in there.
3- Clutch has gotten progressively worse, so I'll split the tractor and put in new parts as needed. I've watched the video of the girl from Steiner on youtube, and it looks pretty easy.
4- Hydraulic unit has been leaking fluid forever. Kitty litter is a fact of life on my shop floor under the cub, so I may as well take that off and put in new o-rings, etc.
5- The governor is sometimes sticky and hesitant, so that might be worth a look too.

I have a come along, wedges and nylon straps to support the front of the tractor when I split it, and I was thinking of rigging up something with a wheel to attach to the rear to be able to wheel it apart easily once it is unbolted. My plan is to lay everything on a big table with labels and disassembly order numbers as I take it apart, then order whatever parts are shot, and then reassemble in the reverse order.

So, seeing this list, is there anything else I ought to refresh while I'm at it? I will do lots of research here too, but if there are any threads here that you think would be helpful, I would appreciate being pointed in the right direction.

Many thanks!

[Dale Finch]

You might want to consider a new rear seal and TOB (throwout bearing) while it's split, if there is ANY indication of need. Start soaking the TOB in oil now!

While finals are off for the brakes, replace those seals and the differential seal facing the final.

The brake bands don't need soaking in gas. Using a propane torch, just set the oil-soaked linings on fire, and let them burn until all the oil is gone.

[sevy]

Thank you Dale!
Added to the list!

[Glen]

Hi,
I would look and see if the Touch Control block is leaking from the front, if fluid runs down on the clutch housing. If it leaks from the front of the unit, the Control Valve o ring could be wornout, and need replacing.
If it is just the Control Valve o ring leaking, and there is no leak at the rear, or head end, there may be no need to rebuild the whole unit.

The Touch Control cylinder and piston could be leaking, that is higher up than the control valve.
Use a light, and try to see if, or where it is leaking.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor showing a new Control Valve o ring, it is a Case IH part, it says. There is a pic there showing where it is.
They have said on here that the o ring is a special size.

The valve pulls out the front of the block. You don't need to remove the Touch Control head to replace the control valve o ring.
You may need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the unit onto the clutch housing, the tubes, and the control lever rod, and turn it to the left to get the valve out. You have to lift it some, the bolt heads for the bottom cover would keep it from turning it to the side. Or you can remove the unit and set it on your work bench.
You probably need to remove the starter rod, and choke rod also.
Drain the system first, like the owner's manual says, remove the filler plug, then the drain plug.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm

Whenever disassembling a Touch Control, it should be clean. Don't allow any dirt or grit inside the unit.
If you need to replace the o ring, clean the area well, and use plenty of Hy-Tran fluid on the o ring and valve, when putting the o ring on the valve, and when putting the valve into the unit again.
Feel the area around the hole for the valve in the block, be sure it is smooth and clean.
Any roughness can cut the new o ring.

When you get it to work, remember to fill the unit the last time with the arms in the rear or down position, like the Cub owner's manual says.

Below is a post I made telling how to fill the Touch Control, and remove the air from the system.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=106664

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the front of a Touch Control, with the rockshaft removed.
The control valve is at the lower right, right in the pic.
The piston is in the upper part of the pic.

[sevy]

Hi Glen,
Thanks for the details about the touch control unit. I had it apart many years ago when my father was running the tractor, and we had it apart and back together several times, as we didn't get everything in its proper place until the second try.
I read a suggestion to use oil instead of hydraulic fluid in the unit, in case the pump seal leaked, so the crankcase oil wouldn't be contaminated?
I will follow your refilling thread when I get to that point. Thank you for sharing!

[Don McCombs]

Use only hydraulic fluid in the Touch Control. HyTran Ultra or equivalent. Motor oil does not have the anti-foaming properties needed.