Clutch pedal with internal rod

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Don McCombs
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Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
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1977 International Cub w/FH
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1948 Farmall Super A
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Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby Don McCombs » Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:25 am

Bob McCarty wrote:http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=223&t=107911 Be aware that Sat. afternoon is occupied with the "Tug" (Cub tractor pull), so noone is in the shop at that time. You'll need the gasket for the retainer. If the oil pan hasn't been dropped and cleaned, you might want to bring that gasket too.

And perhaps a gasket for the hydraulic block end of the manifold tubes, in case that one gets damaged in removal. Also bring enough engine oil and filter, and sufficient hydraulic fluid for a complete refill. If you can swing it, some folks will probably be around Thursday afternoon to get the project started. Check the information at this link... http://www.cubtug.com/
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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User avatar
Don McCombs
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 15415
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
Zip Code: 21550
Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby Don McCombs » Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:40 am

Might want to bring a bottle of Indian Head Shellac or your favorite gasket stickum along, too.
Don McCombs
MD, Deep Creek Lake

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Proud Member of Maryland Chapter 39
Circle of Safety

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Sun Jun 28, 2020 2:02 pm

Indian Head is favorite.

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Glen
5+ Years
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Posts: 4915
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
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Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby Glen » Sun Jun 28, 2020 5:57 pm

Hi,
Before putting on a different oil pan, I would use a long straight edge, and a good light, and check the top surface of the pan to see if it is flat. It has to be flat to seal well on the engine.
Sometimes they are bent up where the bolt holes are.
If it is bent, set the edge of the pan on a solid metal surface, an anvil, or something, and gently hammer the edge flat. :)

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Sun Jun 28, 2020 6:45 pm

Will do that with oil pan, Thanks for the heads up. It's a far cry better than the one on motor now.

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Wed Jul 01, 2020 2:41 pm

So I sprayed the pilot bushing and spline with Seafoam penetrating oil and let sit a couple days. I started tractor and still grinding but I did like Rick suggested and jiggled the pto shaft until I got it engaged. Than let it run a bit. Nothing but a belt pulley on it. Kept working the clutch and I know it's doing something cause it pulls engine down only slightly. Disengaged pto and kept jiggling the gear shifter. Finally engaged. I drove around and was able to go in out of gears. Sometimes it grinds sometimes I have to jiggle to go in gear. Believe Rick is right on pilot bushing. Sprayed some more SF in. I did this with a long spray straw and worked it through the clutch openings and hoped for the best to hit pilot bushing.

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Wed Jul 01, 2020 2:45 pm

On a side note, would love to go to a Cub Bash and hope to next year.

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Glen
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Posts: 4915
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby Glen » Wed Jul 01, 2020 4:14 pm

Hi,
Here is something that could be causing the shaft to keep turning when you push the clutch pedal down, if someone replaced the pilot bushing recently.

I don't know if you have read on here before, some of the new replacement pilot bushings are too small an ID after they are driven into the crankshaft hole.
The Cub service manual gives the running clearance, and the size of the end of the clutch shaft. They should be measured with a dial caliper.
If the bushing is too small, it needs reaming before putting the clutch on the flywheel.

Having the bushing too small an ID can make the clutch shaft keep turning when you push the clutch pedal down, then the gears will grind when trying to shift.

When replacing a clutch, Boss Hog has said on here that not all pilot bushings need replacing, some are still good. :)

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Wed Jul 01, 2020 6:32 pm

Good to have this information about pilot bushing. Not saying that in 72 years this tractor has never been split apart, for who would know but numerous previous owners. There is no indications of any replaced parts inside the hand hole. With what I am learning about clutches and pilot bushings. And with rear seal leaking, just a oily mess in that hole, although the TO bearing was well greased. And who knows how long this tractor has been idle. I am betting the PB is gummed up and if I could work this old cub a few hours; she would start running good, not the best but good. And I know I would find a lot of leaks to worn, dry rotted seals and gaskets. Just saying she needs a good overhaul but until I can get to that stage she is a good show piece of history. I so much appreciate the schooling that all are sharing, you are helping me learn so much about a great machine. I am a member on Wheel Horse tractor site, for I own 20 of them. This site is equal to them in the abundance of helpful individuals giving of their time and knowledge to help others learn. Makes me proud to be an American this July 4th holiday knowing people do still care.

User avatar
Glen
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 4915
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby Glen » Wed Jul 01, 2020 8:34 pm

Hi,
Below is the Cub service manual, if you don't have it. It has lots of info. You can read about the clutch.
It only shows the newer style of free play adjustment, I think.
It has a section about splitting a Cub also. :)

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Wed Jul 01, 2020 8:53 pm

Thank you I do have the download and a 1948 original manual, that does show the internal clutch like mine.

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Steve Butram
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Tractors Owned: 1947 in well used condition
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628 2 wheel Trailer
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Location: IN West Lafayette

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby Steve Butram » Thu Jul 02, 2020 5:46 am

Did the throw out bearing have a noticeable groove where the clutch fingers made contact with it. If so your throw out bearing may be worn past it's service limit.
Be prepared to be unprepared Seth Goden

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Thu Jul 02, 2020 10:15 am

The TO bearing is flat where it contacts the fingers and measures within 5/16" of pad.

rtruck200826@aol.com
Posts: 29
Joined: Fri May 08, 2020 10:25 pm
Zip Code: 44639
Tractors Owned: 1959 Country Squire. 1957 RJ35, 1959 RJ59, 1960 550 & 400, 1961 701, 2-1963 633, 1964 34R, 704, 1054, 1966 856, 1967 657, 1257, 1970 Raider 10, 1973 10hp, 1978 C-161 Twin, 1977 D200, 1986 417-8, 1995 520H, 2004 315-8. 1964 Jacobsen Chief, 1970 S17 Speedex.

Re: Clutch pedal with internal rod

Postby rtruck200826@aol.com » Sat Jul 04, 2020 9:52 pm

Ran the ole girl a little today. Still white smoking but water looks good and green and oil level is good, needs changed but no smell of gas in it. So once started at low idle, It will grind but if I jiggle and snap it into a gear than I can drive and when I stop to shift it will go in and out no problem. But once I stop and engage PTO and disengage or if I stop and restart the motor, it is the same scenario. But at least I finally can drive her around a bit for now. Eventually I will take the head off and check the valves, pistons, & cylinder walls. Than split her and repair and replace as needed. There are a lot of drip leaks of seals and gaskets, so little by little I will get her back in her Glory and have fun doing such. She's just intended for a show and tell and drive around for fun. And take up space in my garage lol. Not Moving now as stated in an earlier post. Instead getting a dissolution. We just have no shared interests any longer.


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