Farmall Cub

I have sn 38400. Finally got her to start, using hand crank. No starter system. Lot of white smoke. Now trying to drive. Problem is the clutch won't stop drive so I can put her in gear. It is the internal adjusting rod like 47s. I read where around 32200 they went to external, somehow mine isn't. I can see the rod moving the clutch through the bottom hole. Looks as if the adjusting rod is adjusted to the limit. Can see threads on inside of adjusting yoke. Or is it supposed to be adjusted the other way? I assume the worse is that the clutch plates are worn to the limits. No telling what po did or how long it's been since last started. Can't figure out how to post pics. Have a Android phone. It is not smart. Also the pedal moves all the way to the stop.

PM sent.

Hi,
Serial number 38400 would have had the newer style clutch free play adjustment.
The Cub parts manual says IH changed the clutch free play adjustment to the newer style at serial number 32229.
I suppose someone changed something on your Cub.
You could look at the casting code on the clutch housing and see if it is a 1948 housing, or if it's been replaced.

The Cubs usually have date codes on the larger castings.
Below is info from TM Tractor, showing what the date codes are on Cubs.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_004.htm

The info below shows where the date codes are.
The date code on the clutch housing, in the 1st pic, is usually partly behind the clutch pedal.
The date code on the steering gear housing, the last pic, is usually mostly hidden when the tractor is assembled.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/castdate_loc.htm

There should be 1 3/16" free play in the clutch pedal on the 1st style of clutch pedal, at the top of the pedal travel, measured at the surface where you put your foot.
There should be return springs on all the pedals, under the platform, that pull the pedals up to the platform.

Does it take effort to push the clutch pedal down after the free play area ?

Below is a page from the 1947 Cub operator's manual, showing the clutch, and the rod inside the housing.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-40.jpg


The Cub operator's manual can help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1949 Cub operator's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

This manual shows the electrical system that a 1948 Cub originally had.
Cubs made before mid 1964 originally had 6 volt, positive ground electrical systems.

The recommendation in the manual to use 10W oil in the Touch Control was changed later to Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using it with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in the housing.
There are 3 separate gear housings, with 3 separate oil levels to check, in the rear area of a Cub, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

The transmissions in Cubs commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.

I guess I sent you the operator's manual before.

Page 40 of 1949 Operator's Manual, Glen's link above, shows the location of the clutch pedal linkage and how to adjust the free play.

Edit. It 's possible the original bolster, serial number location, was changed to a bit later bolster.

rtruck's photos...

Thank You Don for posting my pics. Casting date is upside down, reads 6-13-R. Wheels left and right are both 5-14-R, Transmission is 12-29-R, Engine is 11-24-R, couldn't read the steering box or rear axle. All indicate 1948 except the Touch Control is 5-20-X=1952. Just figured out how to post to the registry with my tractor and these numbers.

I understand the book info (I have a original 1947 manual, not reprint) about adjusting the yoke by turning it in to shorten the pedal play and I tried it but then it wouldn't engage the clutch at all. The clutch pedal has resistance from the spring and as pictured will move the grease fitting part about 3/8 inch or so. I am confused by the 3 adjusting screws on the clutch and where I measure to get those clearances. I believe my pad just might be completly wore down, not sure if I am looking at it right. Not so easy upside down looking into a hole, lol. I am seeing other posts like the one with the homemade wiper arm tool for measuring the 1-1/4. Think I am seeing the points to measure between. Have to get a ratchet screwdriver to work with tried a bit and 1/4 inch wrench, impossible.

I've not run into a Cub clutch that was worn down too much, but I'm sure someone has. More often, the pressure plate fingers are not adjusted correctly. That is extremely difficult to do through the handhold, I'd almost rather split the tractor and then review rear seal, throwout bearing, pressure plate and flywheel, etc.

It is pretty oily in there, the rear seal maybe leaking, so a split might be in order. That's what I wondered, how easy it was to wear out the clutch. Although it is a 72 year old tractor and this one appears to have been used a lot. It came with dozer blade and woods mower. Has the cultivator rear hook bar, has a plow lift handle on the right and the eye in the drawbar for a plow. PO was making it look good and changing fluids but not mechanical problems. Just hoping for a quick ez fix so I could at least drive it and not have to push it around when I need her moved.

rtruck200826@aol.com wrote:Just hoping for a quick ez fix so I could at least drive it and not have to push it around when I need her moved.

In that case, you might want to try adjusting the clutch fingers through the hole to get it 'good enough' for now.

Thank you for a great forum and good folks to help in learning about these great machines.

Everything visible through the hand hole looks to be in reasonable condition. That is except finger adjustment, which I can't comment on one way or the other. Try to observe the fingers while cycling the pedal up and down (may need a helper to operate the pedal). See if the fingers move enough to reasonably expect the clutch to release. If so, your problem may be something other than the actual clutch release mechanism. Maybe your clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel or the pilot bearing is binding.

Jim Thank You, gives me some where to start when I can get back to it.

Hi,
Lay down under the Cub so you are not upside down, makes it easier to adjust the pressure plate fingers, if you adjust them through the hand hole.
People on here have said with the 1st style of clutch pedal adjustment, the finger height needs to be about 1 1/8" to 1 3/16".

As the clutch disc lining wears, the pressure plate fingers rise, it says that on page 40 of the operator's manual. So if the fingers are too low, you could try adjusting them.

Below is a pic of where to measure to set the finger height. The pressure plate has to be assembled on the flywheel, not off, like the pic.

So I got the fingers adjusted to 1 1/8. Were off a 3/32 or so. Got the. 1/8 between fingers and bearing. Could not get the peddle to 1 1/4 play by adjusting the yoke. As I went back with it there was no pushing the fingers. As I came out with it it pushes the fingers but to get the 1/8 gap the peddle bottoms out to stop. Everything moves but will not stop to be able to put in gear. The bearing is not snug on driveshaft. Lots of play when I take the yoke off, is that normal? Lots of oil in there so I used brake cleaner avoiding the bearing, trying to clean off clutch pad. Can't tell for sure but appears to be a thin 1/8 inch pad maybe little thicker. Greased up the bearing as much grease as it would take. It pushed out blue grease from po. So still can't get in gear while running. It will go in/ out gears when shut off no problem. Now the po did change out the shifter could that be something that was missed when he put the new one in. Can't imagine what just grasping at anything. Also when pressing clutch down the engine does slow a bit like clutch is trying to do something. The pto also grinds like shifter.