Fuel valve leaking

[57j2olds]

Can someone please tell me where the oring goes on my fuel valve? 1953 Cub.

The lever the turns fuel on and off is leaking and the oring is in pieces.

Thanks

[Bob McCarty]

The oem sediment bowl which has the "L" shaped handle used packing, but no o-ring. Most aftermarket bowls have a "T" handle. To service either one, you'll need to drain the tank, disconnect the gas line, remove and diassemble the top of the bowl. There is a teflon plumber's cord, or heavy dental floss that can be used to repack the lever. Can you post pictures of what you have?

[Jim Becker]

Some people have used a small o-ring the same place the packing went.

By the way, the original valves were backseating. There was no packing but they had to be opened completely to not leak.

[perk]

My cub was leaking here and I just had to tighten the nut a few threads that holds the assembly. Try that first.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I have fixed them by leaving the vaLVE CLOSED ( NO DRAINING OF FUEL NEEDED) BACKING THE NUT OFF (dang caps lock), and putting several wraps of cotton string on the shaft and tightening the nut down. Cap nut have to be tightened again after a few of/on cycles.

[57j2olds]

How do I upload a pic?

Thanks

[Dadsfarmalls]

If you are using the "Quick Reply" option, click on the "Full Editor & Preview" Button. That will open the full editor.

Once in the full editor, look below the "Save draft" "Preview" "Submit" buttons. You will see two tabs, the first one is "Options", the second one is "Attachments" Click on "Attachments"

There you will see an "Add Files" button, click on that and select the photo(s) you want to attach.

Once you've attached your photos you can then add text in the text editor part if you want, and click the "Submit" button to post.

[Bill V in Md]

You will probably need to resize your photos, if they are too large. 640 x 480 pixels usually works well.

[57j2olds]

Pic attempt....

[57j2olds]

I think the o-ring slides down over hump to the left to threads...

[Jim Becker]

That is a backseating valve. It shouldn't leak if it is completely opened. How much does it leak? Maybe the sealing surface is damaged. You could have leakage past the threads.

[57j2olds]

It used to leak bad when opened. Never tried full open.

Now it’s seeping a little closed too.

[57j2olds]

So here is the valve. It looks like there is a rubber seal in the nut. What can I put in there? Obviously I cannot remove the nut.

Thanks

[Dale Finch]

It's hard to see, but is that an o-ring at the "top" of the lower threads? If THAT is the seal you are talking about, seems like it should be at the "bottom" of those same threads, where the nut would press against it for the sealing between the nut and the shaft.

[Bill Hudson]

So here is the valve. It looks like there is a rubber seal in the nut. What can I put in there? Obviously I cannot remove the nut.

Thanks

Ok, lets start from scratch:
1. No o-ring needed or used anywhere in/on the sediment bowl unit.
2. Already suggested by Bob McCarty,

There is a teflon plumber's cord, or heavy dental floss that can be used to repack the lever.

3. The cord (my preferred option) is placed around the shaft between the packing nut (that will not come off) and where it screws on. Not a lot of the cord is needed, use just a few strands wrapped around the shaft in a clockwise direction a couple of times.
4. Finger tighten the packing nut.
5. With the valve in the fully open position, place it in the sediment bowl and tighten it in place.
6. Move the valve to a position midway between open and closed.
7. Tighten the packing nut till it is snug.
8. Open and close the valve to determine the effort needed to operate the valve.
9. Adjust the packing nut to achieve a firm and even effort to operate the valve.
10. Install the sediment bowl.
11. Test for leaks by opening the valve to full open, the valve will be against the backseat.
12. Adjust the packing nut as needed to stop any leak that appears around the shaft.

Hope this helps.

Bill