Clutch Padle Adjustment
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:38 pm
- Zip Code: 13027
- Tractors Owned: 1947 CUB 527, 1949 Cub
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Baldwinsville, NY
Clutch Padle Adjustment
I,m attempting to adjust the clutch pedal and after loosening the bolt on the outside of the clutch pedal there is no adjustment on the slotted lever. It will not move no matter what I do. Isn't this supposed to be adjustable or am I doing somehting wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
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- 5+ Years
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1958 International Cub LoBoy
1948 Farmall Cub
1977 International LoBoy 184
1947 Farmall H
1946 Farmall B
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Cub-193 Moldboard Plow
Cub-54A Leveling and Grader Blade
Cub Loboy L-54 Leveling and Grader Blade
Unknown 5' Single Gang Disc Harrow - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Manchester, MI
Re: Clutch Padle Adjustment
It is supposed to be adjustable. The two are probably rusted together from moving as one for a very long time. I've had luck with penetrating oil, and a large pair of channel locks or pipe wrench on the plate while moving the pedal by hand to free them up.
Jim


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- 5+ Years
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1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
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1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
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Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Clutch Padle Adjustment
The adjustment came in 1948 mid-year after sn 30761 (my 48 sn without pedal adjustment). If this is for your 47 there is no adjustment on the pedal you have to do it through the hole in the torque tube.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 4:38 pm
- Zip Code: 13027
- Tractors Owned: 1947 CUB 527, 1949 Cub
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Baldwinsville, NY
Re: Clutch Pedal Adjustment
I'm adjusting the clutch pedal on my 49, the 47 is OK. I wanted to make sure the pedal was adjusted correctly so I could check out if the clutch fingers needed to be adjusted. When checking the fingers one was loose with no pressure on it. I think I will be splitting the cub tomorrow and replace the clutch, pressure plate and a new rear main seal.
I will keep you all updated as I start this and I know I will have questions.
I will keep you all updated as I start this and I know I will have questions.
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- Team Cub Mentor
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1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
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1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Clutch Padle Adjustment
If you're thinking about replacing the rear seal in the existing retainer, you may want to rethink that. The seal is not likely to hold, since the retainer has deformed over time. Tim Talleur (tst) re-machines the retainer and installs a slightly larger OD seal to create a tight, press fit.
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Re: Clutch Padle Adjustment
Hi,
The clutch pedal adjustment was changed at serial number 32229.
Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the 2 different pedals and adjustments.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 007-04.jpg
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the clutch pedal base. The outer part has to turn on the inner part.
If it is stuck, you will need to use penetrating oil and soak it, and work it loose.
Also, lube the shiny part with oil, they can get tight in the housing from no lube.
The pedal usually pulls out of the housing about 1/4", this helps as you can apply oil there, then work the pedal and work the oil into the housing.
The shiny part contacts in the hole about 2/3 of it's length, so it takes some time to work oil into the housing. Push the pedal base into the housing when done oiling.
The clutch pedal adjustment was changed at serial number 32229.
Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the 2 different pedals and adjustments.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 007-04.jpg
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the clutch pedal base. The outer part has to turn on the inner part.
If it is stuck, you will need to use penetrating oil and soak it, and work it loose.
Also, lube the shiny part with oil, they can get tight in the housing from no lube.
The pedal usually pulls out of the housing about 1/4", this helps as you can apply oil there, then work the pedal and work the oil into the housing.
The shiny part contacts in the hole about 2/3 of it's length, so it takes some time to work oil into the housing. Push the pedal base into the housing when done oiling.

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