6V System w/4 position switch w/cutout and Delco Remy Regulator

[1sgWillys]

Received my Brillman harness for the 6V system with 4 way switch and cutout today and the instructions do not mention the regulator. My Current regulator is a Delco Remy (two tabs on the roght an one in the left). There is one tab on the right (nearest to the starter) that does not have wire on it. Wondering what is supposed to connect there? I don't know if the four way switch work for the low and high charge but does work for the lights. Looking for a solid diagram for this setup. The operator manual shows a different style regulator.

[tst]

try this

[1sgWillys]

Thank you for the diagram. This helps a lot. So then with the setup in the diagram (which matches my setup) the third tab on the regulator remains open?

[Bill V in Md]

Thank you for the diagram. This helps a lot. So then with the setup in the diagram (which matches my setup) the third tab on the regulator remains open?

If you have three terminals on the regulator, it is actually a cutout. In that case, the "F" terminal on the cutout should be left unconnected. As shown in the diagram, the "F" terminal on the generator is wired to the field resistor on the 4-position light switch to control the charging.

[Glen]

Hi,
If the system is as it originally was, with the cutout, or Relay IH called it, on top of the generator, there is no voltage regulator. The Relay is not a voltage regulator.
The 4 position switch controls the charge rate, you have to choose the charge rate yourself, High or Low charge.
tst's wiring diagram above is the right one for a Relay system.

The voltage regulator came out at serial number 115403, which was during 1950.
Battery Ignition came out then also.

Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual showing the electrical system for Cubs before 115403.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2033.jpg

[1sgWillys]

Hi,
If the system is as it originally was, with the cutout, or Relay IH called it, on top of the generator, there is no voltage regulator. The Relay is not a voltage regulator.
The 4 position switch controls the charge rate, you have to choose the charge rate yourself, High or Low charge.
tst's wiring diagram above is the right one for a Relay system.

The voltage regulator came out at serial number 115403, which was during 1950.
Battery Ignition came out then also.

Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual showing the electrical system for Cubs before 115403.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2033.jpg

My serial is 113,000+ but under 113,200. Tractor is not in front of me. Thank you for clarifying the cutout vs regulator. Now it's making sense as to why that one lug is empty. So if the operator controls the battery charge rate with the dash control then how do you know when to use the low or high charge rate? Does the tractor only really put a draw on the battery when the lights are on? Sorry for the 20 questions. I am pretty new to this.

[Urbish]

I generally leave mine in the low setting unless I flooded the engine and had to crank it a lot. If you're starting and stopping the engine often or are running the lights for long periods (both headlights and a rear work light will draw slightly more current than the generator puts out), you might want to bump it up to high. I would not leave it on high if I was running for more than a half hour at a time with the lights off unless the battery was nearly dead when I started.

[MiCarl]

If your Cub is magneto ignition the only electricity used (other than when cranking) is for the lights. That 4 position switch grounds the field terminal at the high charge setting or the lights on settings. The owners manual says to leave it in the low setting unless you have reason to believe the battery is somewhat discharged.

When I got my '44 H the generator field terminal had a jumper to ground. Some checking revealed that the wire to the 4 position switch has an open in it and the electrical system was running at more than 8 volts, which concerned me for battery life. I happened to notice in the manual a description of the 4 position switch and the low charge resistor and there was an off hand mention that tractors without lights don't have the 4 position switch and instead have the resistor in the field circuit all the time. That caused the old noggin' to have a thought and I checked the "F" terminal at the cut out relay. It turns out that's got the resistor for tractors without lights.

The tractor has LED lights so doesn't really need the high charge from the 4 position switch and it's a community use thing so don't really need someone cranking it up and ruining the battery. So I connected the "F" terminal on the cut out to the "F" terminal on the generator and all is good.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub owner's manual has info about the electrical system, and will help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1950 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it.
The lube section begins on page 14. Changing the trans and final drive oils are on pages 20 and 21.

Page 34 has info about using the charge and light switch, starting at the lower left of the page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

The recommendation in the manual to use Touch Control fluid in the Touch Control was changed later to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers.

I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub. Using a Cub with low oil in a gear housing can damage the parts in it.
There are 3 separate gear housings at the rear area of a Cub, with 3 separate oil levels to check, the transmission, and 2 final drives.

Below is a page from the 1955 Cub operator's manual showing the electrical system, the voltage regulator is on a mounting plate, not on top of the generator.
This is the system used beginning at serial number 115403.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2050.jpg

[Whitecub50]

Hey guys I have a 1950 cub that is 6 volt positive ground and I’m horrible with electrical, reading and understanding it anything to do with electrical I’m absolutely ignorant. I have a 3 brush delco remy generator and I’m trying to run it with a 6 volt positive ground voltage regulator, I’m sorry if this sounds dumb or guys are like why the hell would you do that, but like I said I’m terrible with this kinda stuff. Question is can I use this setup? And will it charge correctly? Do I need to break down and spend the money on a cutout/relay?? Need help please. The tractor was 12 volt negative ground with distributor and I bought brand new magneto and converted it back to 6 volt. I do have the 4 position light switch also, will this work with my setup??

[Jim Becker]

What you are saying/trying is reasonable in general. However, there are many detail variations of both generators and regulators. They were originally paired up in specific combinations and generally work best if properly matched.

What are the part numbers of your generator and regulator? Generators originally had a part number stamped into an oval shaped tag. Regulators often have at least a partial part number stamped into the base.

The 4-position switch (the generally rectangular shaped one) will work with about any version of charging system. The first two switch positions (low and high) only come into play if you have a cutout rather than a full voltage regulator. We can get into that detail as needed based on what you have for a regulator.

[Glen]

Hi,
Whitecub50, Welcome to the website.

It is not hard to understand the electrical system on a Cub. My posts above have info.

Read the electrical section in the Cub operator's manual.
You have to know the serial number of the Cub to know which manual to look at.
I posted the 1950 Cub operator's manual above.
The 1950 operator's manual only has info for the earlier system, with the cutout, or Relay, IH called it.
The 1955 operator's manual has info for the newer system, with voltage regulator, and the Battery Ignition unit.

Like I wrote above, The cutout or Relay, IH called it, was used up to serial number 115403, which was during 1950.
If your Cub is number 115403, or newer, it would have come with a voltage regulator, and could have come with a Battery Ignition unit.
If it is serial number 115403 or above, you didn't need to buy a magneto, if it came with a Battery Ignition unit.
IH sold a kit, beginning in the early 1950's, to convert older Cubs with magnetos to Battery Ignition.

3 brush generators were used on Cubs from 1947, up into the 1960's, so that is what it originally had.

The generator on Cubs with a voltage regulator up through the mid 1950's was Delco model number 1100501.
The generator used with a Relay was model number 1101355.
There was originally a plate on the generators with the model number, it is the number on the left side of the plate.
It would be helpful to write your tractor serial number, and generator model number on here, like Jim said above.

[Whitecub50]

Ok thanks guys, I will get the numbers off of the generator and regulator and post them ASAP and look into the Manual. The tractor serial# is 106505 so that’s before the 115403. Someone had already converted it from 6v to 12v and I converted it back. I wanted it to be as it came originally. I’ve already had buddies asking why the hell would I want that and my only answer Is that my 49 i had was 6v and I like the fact that if I was out in the field working and shut the tractor down for a few and went to start it back up and the battery for whatever reason was dead I could hand crank it and it would run unlike a distributor. The only thing I wouldn’t have would be lights.

[tomcough]

I have a a '48 Cub with 4 position switch, cutout but with the "F" terminal on the cutout connected to the "F" on the generator. The generator is the earlier 1101355. This Cub has lights that I believe are factory. The wiring looks original. This tractor hasn't been started in 27 years (I'm slowly reviving it). When I last ran it, the generator was charging.

Here's a pic (sorry for the orientation).

[Jim Becker]

. . . the "F" terminal on the cutout connected to the "F" on the generator. . . .

The wire from the generator "F" to the cut-out "FLD" has been added. Note that you also have a second wire from the generator "F" going somewhere into the harness. The other end of that wire should be on the light switch. The added wire would force the generator to charge at the "low" rate even if the light switch is defective or not properly connected. That is probably why the wire was added. If the switch is good and all connections (including grounds) are also good, the added wire would cause a slight increase in the charging rate when the light switch is on "low". Otherwise it would have no effect.