NAPA Replacement Radiator

[Jim Becker]

I have an original 78 longstripe with a brass tube running down the right side (sitting in the seat) and terminating in the flat clip.

That is strange. TM shows that clip was used on Cubs serial numbers 248124 and below.

Which is what the parts catalog says:
"CLIP, radiator overflow pipe, cub tractors w/serial no. 248124 and below"

I was always under the impression the overflow hose came with the long stripe tractors. A situation like Don's always brings up the question of whether the relevant part (the radiator) has been changed. What is the date on the radiator tag?

[Slim140]

I have an original 78 longstripe with a brass tube running down the right side (sitting in the seat) and terminating in the flat clip.

That is strange. TM shows that clip was used on Cubs serial numbers 248124 and below.

Which is what the parts catalog says:
"CLIP, radiator overflow pipe, cub tractors w/serial no. 248124 and below"

I was always under the impression the overflow hose came with the long stripe tractors. A situation like Don's always brings up the question of whether the relevant part (the radiator) has been changed. What is the date on the radiator tag?

Jim, this 1975 I just replaced had the hose and two side clips. It missed the longstripe mark by a few hundred. Looks original under the hood. I’ll get the serial number in a little while. Here’s the tag on the radiator. I can’t tell the date from the picture though.

[Don McCombs]

Jim,
I won’t be able to check the date code on the radiator for about two weeks. I’ll report back.

[Slim140]

My tractor serial number is 2478XX

[indy61]

My tractor serial number is 2478XX

According to the parts book it should have the tube overflow if it has the original radiator and not the hose.
Perhaps it just depends on who supplied the radiator at the time?

From Kenneth Updike's book "Original Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet"

[coppersmythe]

came in for lunch , both of my longstripes have the "rubber" hose down the left side ( as sitting on the tractor seat facing forward) . New overflow tube is going well , pictures later today . I have hit two minor problems with the TM pipe . Back to work .. coppersmythe........PS: cliffhanger

[Jim Becker]

According to the parts book it should have the tube overflow if it has the original radiator and not the hose.

Perhaps it just depends on who supplied the radiator at the time?

I wouldn't expect that sort of difference between two sources of presumably interchangeable parts. The source could alter existence or form of date codes. I think I have seen variations on that.

[indy61]

I went out to start my 61 Lo-Boy and noticed my overflow tube has no clip but the fan shroud has a hole to hold it in place.

[coppersmythe]

here is my experience , your mileage may vary flux i use .

IMG_1608.JPG

everything ready

IMG_1613.JPG

I first cut off the "nub" as low as possible on the clancey . then file the clancey overflowtube almost flush. "tinned" the hole , then drilled it to 21/64 to get a good fit . pipe from TM does not touch the radiator where it should . i had four radiators , two had IH tags on them .TM pipe was close , but off where it counts ( the "correct" spot to solder to tank ) . also , i had to cut 3/8+ off the end that goes in the radiator filler .i'm sure that amount varies so be careful and test fit first before cutting . i bolted the holder on the bottom to hold the pipe while soldering the other end . Also , I placed a scrap piece of metal between the top tank and the pipe to give it clearance so it would not possibly rub a hole over time

IMG_1624.JPG

"tin" both parts to be soldered.

IMG_1626.JPG

I used a wet rag to act as a heat sink to reduce the likelyhood of the adjoining solder joints to be compromised.

IMG_1628.JPG

finished and painted

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INSTALLED the next tube i do , i plan to tweak 2 locations to get the pipe to lay down tight where the solder should be coppersmythe..............................PS: . i'll work on the details ....................................PS: the two shortcomings of the TM pipe , in my experience , the part that goes in the filler hole is too "long" , but would have to be to work with variations in tanks .Measure and CAREFULLY cut . And , the bends that should bring the pipe close enough to solder IN THE RIGHT SPOT is not correct. BUT FINISHED UP NICE . i'm pleased with the results. coppersmythe.......................................PPS: we plan to drive the old girl around the block later today !! Thanks to all that had a hand in her resurrection

[coppersmythe]

5 photos that will not play nice............................coppersmythe....................EDIT: morning coffee and help from my computer wizz , getting there .

[Jim Becker]

Been a while since I soldered on one of TM's overflow tubes. The upper end definitely needed to be trimmed. Seems like some other fitting was required as well, but I don't remember the details or that it was a big problem. The extra bit on the upper end was helpful for getting the best fit. It was not difficult. But I would not recommend the task as a first soldering job!

[tst]

all the longstripes I have and worked on all had the rubber hose on the left

[Slim140]

here is my experience , your mileage may vary flux i use .IMG_1608.JPG everything readyIMG_1613.JPG I first cut off the "nub" as low as possible on the clancey . then file the clancey overflowtube almost flush. "tinned" the hole , then drilled it to 21/64 to get a good fit . pipe from TM does not touch the radiator where it should . i had four radiators , two had IH tags on them .TM pipe was close , but off where it counts ( the "correct" spot to solder to tank ) . also , i had to cut 3/8+ off the end that goes in the radiator filler .i'm sure that amount varies so be careful and test fit first before cutting . i bolted the holder on the bottom to hold the pipe while soldering the other end . Also , I placed a scrap piece of metal between the top tank and the pipe to give it clearance so it would not possibly rub a hole over time IMG_1624.JPG "tin" both parts to be soldered.IMG_1626.JPG I used a wet rag to act as a heat sink to reduce the likelyhood of the adjoining solder joints to be compromised.IMG_1628.JPGfinished and paintedIMG_1630.JPG INSTALLED the next tube i do , i plan to tweak 2 locations to get the pipe to lay down tight where the solder should be coppersmythe..............................PS: . i'll work on the details ....................................PS: the two shortcomings of the TM pipe , in my experience , the part that goes in the filler hole is too "long" , but would have to be to work with variations in tanks .Measure and CAREFULLY cut . And , the bends that should bring the pipe close enough to solder IN THE RIGHT SPOT is not correct. BUT FINISHED UP NICE . i'm pleased with the results. coppersmythe.......................................PPS: we plan to drive the old girl around the block later today !! Thanks to all that had a hand in her resurrection

Looks awesome! Your work is amazing!

Two questions. Did you lay some solder in the hole and where the pipe connects on the top then heat the pipe to join it? I know just enough about soldering to be dangerous. Second question is did the top pipe line up right with the neck on the tractor?

[coppersmythe]

here is my experience , your mileage may vary flux i use .IMG_1608.JPG everything readyIMG_1613.JPG I first cut off the "nub" as low as possible on the clancey . then file the clancey overflowtube almost flush. "tinned" the hole , then drilled it to 21/64 to get a good fit . pipe from TM does not touch the radiator where it should . i had four radiators , two had IH tags on them .TM pipe was close , but off where it counts ( the "correct" spot to solder to tank ) . also , i had to cut 3/8+ off the end that goes in the radiator filler .i'm sure that amount varies so be careful and test fit first before cutting . i bolted the holder on the bottom to hold the pipe while soldering the other end . Also , I placed a scrap piece of metal between the top tank and the pipe to give it clearance so it would not possibly rub a hole over time IMG_1624.JPG "tin" both parts to be soldered.IMG_1626.JPG I used a wet rag to act as a heat sink to reduce the likelyhood of the adjoining solder joints to be compromised.IMG_1628.JPGfinished and paintedIMG_1630.JPG INSTALLED the next tube i do , i plan to tweak 2 locations to get the pipe to lay down tight where the solder should be coppersmythe..............................PS: . i'll work on the details ....................................PS: the two shortcomings of the TM pipe , in my experience , the part that goes in the filler hole is too "long" , but would have to be to work with variations in tanks .Measure and CAREFULLY cut . And , the bends that should bring the pipe close enough to solder IN THE RIGHT SPOT is not correct. BUT FINISHED UP NICE . i'm pleased with the results. coppersmythe.......................................PPS: we plan to drive the old girl around the block later today !! Thanks to all that had a hand in her resurrection

Looks awesome! Your work is amazing!

Two questions. Did you lay some solder in the hole and where the pipe connects on the top then heat the pipe to join it? I know just enough about soldering to be dangerous. Second question is did the top pipe line up right with the neck on the tractor?

Yes , tinned the hole almost solid , then drilled it to the correct size , and, tinned about a 1/4 inch of the TM overflow tube . worked great , quick swipe with the heat and it was done . it would be easy to affect the solder around the filler tube , its so close to the overflow location. top pipe "location" was off a bit . A brazing tip set on low is vital , pinpoint heat for great control . A "plumbers torch" would be difficult at best to control heat .

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Tools of the trade . old school irons to the right , used first , brazing tip to the left only if the irons will not fit in the spot .

[coppersmythe]

Just a little caveat , i have been very pleased with the products i have bought from TM , they provide a service that is absolutely vital to our "hobby" . i only pointed out these things i came across with the overflow tube for the folks that are sticklers for correctness coppersmythe...................