New to forum and Cubs

[Jim Becker]

Keep the pressure washer away from the serial number plate and the starter and generator data plates.

Don't even squirt any high-powered solvents on them! (stuff like oven cleaner)

[tst]

the fast hitch was added to that cub, it is missing the spring assist rod for it, the lift rod for it looks repaired, hard to tell in the pic, it is not a straight rod, should have some bends in it, like the ones in the pic
good luck with it

[Glen]

Hi,
Below are pages from the other 1955 Cub operator's manual showing the Fast Hitch.
The 1st page shows the lift rod, you can see the bends, and how it fits.
The Fast Hitch pages in the manual I posted on page 1 of this post don't seem to work.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2018.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2019.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2020.jpg

If it is a 1953 Touch Control, it wouldn't have any attachment on the rockshaft for the helper spring assembly. There is another small arm on the Touch Controls made for use with a Fast Hitch.
The rockshaft and arms are also made from bigger material.
They were changed in late 1954.
Other people use a Fast Hitch with the first styles of Touch Control, it seems to work ok.
The helper spring is not really a necessity, unless you are lifting heavy loads with the Fast Hitch.

[Stanton]

Congrats on the Cub. Looks like a worker and glad to hear it doesn't smoke.

As others have said, use the hot water pressure washer with care, but I think you'll find it will be an improvement--especially on the wheels, tires and cast iron. Get it washed and let it dry, then place a large sheet of cardboard underneath to see if has any leaks.

If you have some caked-on grime/oil/dirt, then a small paint scraper to get the bigger stuff and spraying it with Simple Green or some other bio-degradable cleaner, let it soak, then hit it with the spray washer again. If you use anything like Super Clean or strong chemical parts cleaner, you'll run the risk of dissolving your paint. Always check the label before applying. You might stay away from spraying anything on decals and the items mentioned by others (above).

Are you planning on leaving it in its work-clothes or doing a restoration? Either way, that first Cub is always a fun venture. Enjoy!

[Jobe05]

Glen has you on the right track. Hot pressure washer will definitely be your friend. A couple different size scrub brushes and a squirt bottle with some cheap solvent will help as well. Loads of fun and learning in your future.

Be careful with the pressure washer or at least do it before you change your fluids. It has a way of getting into the steering box, trans, and distributor.
Welcome to the forum!

I was to do the pressure washing before I start changing all fluids. I would wire brush it off but there is a lot of build up in a lot of areas that I can’t get into unless I tear it completely down, which I don’t want to do yet (but it’s coming). I was wanting to keep the 6V system, but now I’m rethinking that....... undecided so I’ll wrap the generator, coil and distributes to not get it to wet as I clean the areas around them.

My plan is to clean it up, check and change what fluids that need it, use it for 2 or 3 months to see were leaks develop so I’ll have a plan of attach (and parts on hand) when I tear it down. Right now, all the fluids are clean and everything is working good so I know I’ll be fine for a couple of months.

[Don McCombs]

Good plan.

[Lt.Mike]

If you power wash avoid blasting the bushing seal where steering shaft enters its gearbox and around the the base of the shifter handle. In fact wrap that connection in plastic as even being parked in the rain can permit water to curl up under and into the trans from that point.

[Jobe05]

Well maybe I also need to think the timing of a couple of maintenance items...... I pulled the top plugs on the steering box and transmission to check the fluid. The good news is there was no signs of water in either, the bad news is the fluid levels were very low, however I wouldn't call what I got out of them "Fluid". The steering box is just a 3/8" of slug on the bottom. The transmission, I put a piece of wire in the plug hole and came up with goop...... You folks are mechanics, I don't think I need to describe the term "Goop"...... ... It was almost as thick as grease, if not as thick. I know the steering I can safely rinse out with Kerosene, Can I do the same thing with the tranny? I have a small 12V water pump that is used in an RV. I was thinking of draining the tranny, if it will drain, then plug the drain with a pipe nibble that goes to the pump, then on the out going side of the pump, have a hose that I can spray the inside of the transmission to get the hard stuff out, drain, fill repeat till clean. Will that work?

[Don McCombs]

You can flush both the steering box and transmission with kerosene. But, I recommend using off-road diesel. It's just as effective and cheaper. When refilling them with gear oil, add only the amount specified in the manual. That is 3.5 PINTS for the transmission.

[Barnyard]

Remove the plug under the tranny and drain all the goop you can. Let it sit overnight if you have to. Then put the plug in, add about three pints of diesel fuel and drive around for 5 or 10 minutes. then drain the diesel fuel and repeat id needed. Once you are happy the goop is gone, then add 3 1/2 pints of 80/90.

[Jobe05]

the fast hitch was added to that cub, it is missing the spring assist rod for it, the lift rod for it looks repaired, hard to tell in the pic, it is not a straight rod, should have some bends in it, like the ones in the pic
good luck with it

Are tou talking about the long rod on the left side of the tractor (along the side of the tractor)? That rod does have have a slight bend to it. It also is in bad shape and will need to be replaced at some point. The pin it attaches to in the front has been welded and has a huge build up of weld that probably would allow a new one to fit on. The one thats there is so wollored out that if goes around the weld build up. So thats a project in itself someday.

[Jobe05]

About an hour ago I went out and pulled the drain plug on the transmission........ It is running out, but slooooooooowly....... Runs out in glops...... I'll let it drain till it stops, may take a day or two, then add kerosene and drive it a bit, and drain, and do it again till it runs somewhat clean, then fill with 80-90.

This after an hour of draining (its 73 degrees out)

[Stanton]

Well maybe I also need to think the timing of a couple of maintenance items...... I pulled the top plugs on the steering box and transmission to check the fluid. The good news is there was no signs of water in either, the bad news is the fluid levels were very low, however I wouldn't call what I got out of them "Fluid". The steering box is just a 3/8" of slug on the bottom. The transmission, I put a piece of wire in the plug hole and came up with goop...... You folks are mechanics, I don't think I need to describe the term "Goop"...... ... It was almost as thick as grease, if not as thick. I know the steering I can safely rinse out with Kerosene, Can I do the same thing with the tranny? I have a small 12V water pump that is used in an RV. I was thinking of draining the tranny, if it will drain, then plug the drain with a pipe nibble that goes to the pump, then on the out going side of the pump, have a hose that I can spray the inside of the transmission to get the hard stuff out, drain, fill repeat till clean. Will that work?

Your explanation, if I'm understanding you correctly, sounds like the same principle in a parts washer; using the drain to feed the pump to spray the inside and recycling it back around. Try just putting some kerosine or diesel in as Don and Barnyard described above and see how that does. If you feel it's not getting the tranny clean enough, then you can open it up and do your method. Your method may work better on stubborn areas of goop where you can actually see the whole tranny.

Use the same amount of kerosine or diesel as the Manual calls for tranny gear oil (3.5 pints). Too much and it will overflow past the seals into your axle extension and final drives.

[Jobe05]

Yes, A mini mobile parts washer. I use this set up on my pressure washers when I run coil cleaner through the the coil.

However I think Im going to use the advise above and just put the kerosene in and run it for a few minutes and drain. I want to drain that through a cloth to see if there is any metal in it, looking through the fill hole, the gears look fine.

I don't know the history of the tractor but based on the thickness of the oil, and lack thereof, I assume it sat for many years.

[Glen]

Hi,
There is a transmission oil level plug, it is low on the left side of the trans.
Remove it and fill the trans until oil runs out the hole, when the Cub is on level ground, then put in the plug again.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor, showing the plug, it is ahead of where the final drive attaches to the housing.

You won't know if there is oil in the final drives unless you check them, I wrote about it on page 1 of this post.