1964 main switch

[BQUICK]

My 64 has a 4 position switch....is that correct for the year? Is it low-high charging on the first two? Headlights come on the last position.

[Bill V in Md]

Yes, the 64 international cub lowboy has a four position light switch with the following designations:
1) OFF
2) D - Dim headlights, instruments lights and red tail light
3) B - Bright headlights, instruments lights and red tail light
4) R - Bright headlights, instruments and white tail light

This information can be found in the operator's manual, in the quick links (top left on this page).

[Glen]

Hi,
If it is a 1964 Cub, it is supposed to have a 4 position light switch. The switch is only for the lights.
If you look behind the dash, it should be a round switch.
A 1964 Cub has a voltage regulator, next to the generator. The switch does not control the generator charge rate.
The High and Low charge 4 position switch was used on the first Cubs, from 1947 - mid 1950. They are a rectangular switch.

The decal at the light switch on a 1964 Cub should say O for off, D for dim, B for bright, R for rear light.

Below is a page from the 1959 Cub operator's manual with info, on the right side of the page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-06.jpg

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OK thanks
My headlights only come on at the last position and are bright. No dim lights at 2.
Rear light not connected but I see a black and a red wire back there dangling. It is still POS ground so connect red to ground and black to rear light?

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub operator's manual that I posted at your other post has more info about the light switch on page 6.

Off is counted as a position, so the headlights should be on in position 2, 3, and 4.
Sometimes the dimmer coil on the switch burns out, or breaks, then there would be no headlights on in the D position.
The manual has wiring diagrams, page 40 shows the rear light. The tail light was standard, I think.
There is originally a junction block there.

If you have a white work light on the rear, it is connected separately from the tail light.
Number 2 in the manual pic is the red wire, it connects to the work light.
Number 7 in the pic is the black wire, it connects to the tail light.
The light grounds through the mounting, it looks like.
If this is not right, Jim B. or someone say please.

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OK thanks....I'll check for juice on those wires. Don't think I need the dim lights but I do like everything to work on a resto....

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Nothing on either wire. Actually I lied.....one tenth of a volt....weird. I'm thinking of just wiring to battery with a switch under seat.

[Scrivet]

I think with your headlights only working in the one position, the wires are in the wrong place on the switch. Don't think of the red and black wire as anything other than color coding. You could call them green and purple or Fred and Barney, they both will have voltage at certain times. That is if they are connected and to the right terminal on the switch.

Figure out which wire at the switch is the voltage supply.
Then figure out which wire supplies voltage to the front headlights.
Then figure out which wires run to the rear.
Then figure out at the rear which color supplies power to the worklight, and which color supplies power to the red light.
Make sure the wires are on the correct terminal of the switch to do their job.
If you're not interested in dim then a short jumper in place of the dimming resistor will work fine. (Off-Bright-Bright-Rear)

[BQUICK]

yeah...have to pull the 4 way switch....hoping to to have to....had to repolarize the gen last time I disconnected battery...no big deal tho...

[tst]

the switch is stamped on the back what each connector goes to

[Bill V in Md]

....had to repolarize the gen last time I disconnected battery...no big deal tho...

You only need to polarize the generator if you have disconnected it or the voltage regulator.

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After I replaced battery no charging. Repolarized and charging resumed.

I checked votlage at the light switch terminal for the rear light and same thing 1/10th volt.
Maybe switch bad or contacts corroded?

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a listing for a new 4 position light switch at TM Tractor, it has a pic of the rear of the switch.

It looks like if you need a new dimmer coil, you need to buy a new switch.
TM Tractor has a new dimmer coil for the older switches, but not for the newer switch.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/1536fp.htm

Check and see if the wires are connected to the switch correctly. The wiring diagram is in the operator's manual I posted before.

Using a voltmeter, test the main power wire going to the switch, and see if it is getting full voltage.

The wire ends, and where they connect to may need sanding and cleaning, so they will work. Disconnect them one at a time to clean them.
Check the wire condition, if any are broken inside the insulation, it may not work right.
The switch could have corrosion inside it, and not work right.

[tst]

those switches do go bad,make sure you have good grounds

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This Cub has original switch but is converted to 12V but still POS ground. Even has original generator and starter....but it works!
Has 12V POS ground voltage regulator.
Anyway....should I buy a 12V or 6V lighting switch?