Rubber Snowplow Edge

[outdoors4evr]

I've been wanting a rubber snowplow edge for a year or so now. I've been watching this company, but the cheapskate in me was considering using a cut rubber horse stall mat.
https://www.rubbercal.com/specialty-products/snowplow-blades/rubber-snowplow-cutting-edge-725-psi.html

Their shipping to a home address was minimally $25 so the cheapest snowplow edge pushed the price to around $50.
Today I noticed that Rubber-Cal has extended their black Friday free shipping of items over $50. I selected one that was just over that $50 mark to get the free shipping - may as well get a better product rather than paying for shipping. Pretty sure I'm going to need some longer bolts for my snowplow edge.

[Lt.Mike]

It’s been suggested here in the past to buy a rubber stall mat and cut out a strip to use as an edge. Think it was Barnyard (?).
Here’s one at tractor supply for $40.
You could cut maybe 10 strips out of one mat.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... _vc=-10005

[BigBill]

Why not use hardface welding rod on the edge of the steel plow lip? I set my skids a tad lower to keep the edge of the plow a tad off the ground. On one used plow on my Jeep I flipped the steel plow edge and redrilled the holes. It’s been 24 years since I flipped the edge.

[outdoors4evr]

After several communications between RubberCal and I, they informed me that this product was not in stock, but would be available at a later date. They offered the option to choose another product that was in stock (for immediate delivery) plus a 10% reduced price, or I could wait for the product to become available. I chose to wait.
On January 14th, a heavy box arrived.

I didn't do anything with it except lay it flat until last weekend. I also bought 1" longer bolts for the cutting edge.
Here it is ready to install.

Marked and drilled the holes.

Here it is installed. The rubber is about 3" long on each side. Not sure if I am going to trim the edges or not. This installation took about 20 minutes.

[Scrivet]

So is offsetting the holes to one side on purpose or accident? I'm thinking since you mentioned the "cost conscientious individual" you are, this was intentional to get four times the use out of this piece of rubber. With two more sets of holes that is. If you drill holes centered, and drill holes same distance above centerline as current holes are below it. When this edge wears out, flip to the uppermost holes, then when that edge wears out move to the centered holes and then when that edge goes, you've still got one more flip.

[ricky racer]

Let us know how it works and if you like it....

[Urbish]

Once my 3/8" Rolled Homogeneous Armor (tank armor) cutting edge wears out, I may go this route. I'll be watching this thread to see how you like this product.

[outdoors4evr]

So is offsetting the holes to one side on purpose or accident?

Hmmm... Perhaps Unintentional, Lack of Forethought, sure... well lets go with your noun. accident

Here are some of my irrational thoughts going into this.
1) I only push snow with this blade. I have a 3-point blade I use for moving dirt.
2) I have a gravel drive with a cement pad approach to the garage.
3) I don't really want to scratch up the cement pad. I am being careful with the tire chains, so I back blade the cement.

This blade has a set of shoes from Barnyard. The steel cutting edge is probably well worn and has about 1" of clearance. (see the pic) The 1" was leaving "too much" white stuff on the cement pad. I don't necessarily want to scrape the gravel clean, but a rubber edge seemed like a good compromise.

The only consideration of wear was to order the 1" thick rubber rather than the 3/4" thick rubber. I'm pretty sure that the 3/4" would work just fine for many many years. Should the rubber wear excessively, I'll drill new holes to the upper right or upper left of the old holes and move the rubber down.

One thing I did notice: Since the blade is curved and the rubber is cut square, the back edge of the rubber touches the ground first. So the rubber contact area with the ground is very minimal. I expect that back edge of the rubber to wear fairly quickly.

[Nelson 634]

Snow plow blades are supposed to be sitting so that it rolls the snow over. The top portion of the blade should be farther forward than the bottom. The bottom of the blade should be perpendicular to the surface you're scraping. However when you're using the blade on dirt it is not exactly the same. You want the bottom of the blade and the top of the blade inline perpendicular. If you observed snow plow trucks on the highways you will see the snow blade looks like the top of it is leaning forward out over the the bottom. Try it I think you will be pleased with the results. Doesn't dig into gravel driveways as bad either.

[outdoors4evr]

Someone used this plow as a battering ram and has bent the mounting bracket bad enough that I can't use the bottom hole.
Someday I'll try to bang it back into shape, but doesn't look like I'll have time this year.

[HIGHNOX]

Check this out...
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5JRZAG

[outdoors4evr]

Check this out...
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5JRZAG

Good idea for a replacement edge. I think I'd look for one that is at least 54" long. - And find it locally! Check out that shipping!

[T-Mo]

Fallline makes these up to 120 inches, and you can get blank ones, or ones with pre-drilled holes.

https://www.fallline.com/snow-removal/s ... ing-edges/